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Discussion Starter #321 (Edited)
Hi Brian,

Did your old COMAND not have an FM Antenna Plugged into it ?? Mine did and I used that to work the FM / AM .................

I took the car out for 30 mile round trip today, FM / AM working Fine, and Navi too, even though that has the ERISIN supplied "Wart Antenna" simply stuck on top of the H/U behind the dash atm lol.

My Car passed it's Annual MOT Test today, just a couple of minor issues that, ahem, must have happened on the way home, honest ;)

Firstly the Licence Plate lamp that I cleaned up suddenly decided to go off when it got to the Testing Station, and also Emissions were a tad high, but it hasn't had an Engine service yet, all the bits are here so hopefully new Plugs and Filters will cure it, if not I'll maybe change the O2 Sensors, guy testing reckons the CATS are ok ;)

I just plugged one of the new Licence Plate Lamps in inside the trunk, and that is working fine, so I will fit the 2 new ones when I strip the licence plate Surround off for the imminent Paint Job ;)

I intend to crimp an SMA onto my Nav Antenna COAX Cable behind Dash, and see if that works, but if not I'll leave it as is. BTW being as my Car is 2001 MY it had the old 2.5 COMAND, with Navi Processor in Dash, so my Shark Fin Cable is right there, no extension needed :grin
Same with DAB, I'm going to try running a COAX from my Antenna Amp as my Rear Screen def has a DAB Aerial in it, but no sign of a COAX in the Boot (Trunk) ;)

I think the issue with F/O Amplifier Cars (and guys saying the MB Antennas don't work), is making sure you connect the Antenna Amps Wake Up Correctly, whereas my Car, which was non BOSE, had the Wake Up wire at the old COMAND H/U, just like the Speakers wiring, and therefore it all plugged straight in to the ERISIN :grin

HTH,

Cheers Dave
 

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Dammed if I can see a coax connection on the back of my COMAND.
I actually haven't removed the current COMAND as I need the car but this photo is of my old failed COMAND back panel. All I see are connector pins and two fibre-optic connections. No coax!
OEM COMAND Back Panel.jpg
 

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This is where I am stuck at the moment. After starting to install the supplied Erisin DAB+ Antenna with amplifier on the front windscreen, I have decided I don't like that arrangement as being a RHD car it is right in the driver's face. I guess I could stick it upside down on the left side which would annoy SWMBO. So I am trying to work out where to connect it.

After hours of searching WIS, I have worked out my car has an Audio Gateway (Radio) Control Unit N93/1 in the rear left trunk with two coax inputs. The black input is the AM/FM Radio signal from the rear windscreen antenna/amplifier. The yellow coax input is called IF which I think means Intermediate Frequency and also comes from the rear windscreen antenna/amplifier.

I also have an analogue TV Tuner with no coax inputs so it is all MOST controlled. Likewise the CD Changer.

The Navigation unit does have a coax input (blue)which must also come from the rear windscreen antenna/amplifier. There must also be a point somewhere that sorts out the telephone signals. WIS talks about an antenna splitter but I cannot find it in my car.

So my question is; if I connect the Erisin radio antenna port to the OEM Black Radio AM/FM Antenna Cable Connector via a 5m extension cable, where can I connect the antenna on the Erisin USB DAB+ Box instead of to the stick on window antenna? I think my diagram at post 319 is wrong.
 

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So to answer my own question; I think I can use a powered splitter to split the OEM FM/AM Radio antenna signals into two with one for the DAB+ receiver.

It assumes that the OEM antenna amplifier can handle the high radio frequencies used by the DAB receiver.
AM FM and DAB Antenna Cable Option C.jpg

I will need to purchase;
• Powered Splitter, I/P DIN (F), O/P DIN (M) and MCX (M),
• 5m Cable Din (M) to DIN (F),
• short DIN (F) to Fakra (F),
• short DIN (M) to Fakra (M)

I now plan to jury rig the system and test the various options.

Any comments appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #326 (Edited)
Hi Brian,

I personally wouldn't use a powered splitter, because your MB is already Amplifying all the various Signals.

Just try a regular splitter first ;)

Now, if you have WIS / EPC, try looking at the Antenna Amp / COMAND Wiring Diagram, if your Rear Screen is like mine, it will already have a DAB Aerial, but IIRC they are not connected unless the Car came with DAB, so my theory is that I should be able to run a COAX down from the Antenna Amp and along to the little DAB Box, stick an MCX on the end, jobs a good 'un ;)

If I get time today I'll try looking at the WD for my car ;) Mine is a lot simpler because it is Pre facelift, so no AGW, and also no BOSE :grin
Like you I won't know until I try it lol.

Here's the link to which Antenna does what, and diagram of the rear glass ;) :-

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w220-s-class/1834026-w220-antenna-system-key-fob.html

Cheers Dave
 

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I still like the idea of a powered splitter. A passive splitter will lose 3dB of signal on each output, ie the signal level will be half what is going in. A powered or active splitter should give the same output amplitude as input amplitude.

I have changed the last diagram to make it a bit simpler as I found a splitter with a MCX (M) output and a DIN (M) output.

BTW I have spent days looking through WIS and Star Finder. Also I do not have rear screens. I also do not have an OEM antenna splitter or Tele Aid etc. and my block diagrams are quite different to Ex-Feds.
 

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Discussion Starter #328 (Edited)
Hi Brian,

Rear Windscreen Glass lol, it has the FM / AM / DAB and TV Antennas built in, the Shark Fin is for GPS and Phone ;)

I didn't realise the signal loss was that much on a Splitter, so yes, if it is same signal out as in then it should work fine. Pls let me know how it works out, also whether the Shark Fin works with the GPS OK, because it seems that the MB GPS Antenna Amp is powered by a 5V through the COAX, I don't know if the ERISIN puts 5V out up the COAX, and if it doesnt, not sure how it would react if we fed 5V up it's COAX ????

'Phut' followed by smelly smoke springs to mind :eek

I did wonder if there was a Splitter available with the correct connectors.

Cheers Dave
 

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I realize this is not a part of your concerns at the moment, but...

"There must also be a point somewhere that sorts out the telephone signals. WIS talks about an antenna splitter but I cannot find it in my car."

On my USA 2003 S430, there are two phone antennas, the shark fin and a long one across the car inside the rear bumper. It has been several years, and I had to try several things for several times to get my phone signal booster system straightened out, so I am not really certain at the moment of the location of the cables and boxes.

All of this info is what I think at the moment. There is one connector box behind the trunk lining just under the right end of the rear windscreen.
The phone cable and the GPS cable from the shark fin go thru this box. The cable for the GPS antenna runs from there to the bundle going forward.
The phone cable runs across the trunk just under the rear window, then back to the electronics bay in the left rear fender, and connects to a powered switchbox there. The cable from the emergency phone antenna in the rear bumper comes in thru a grommet under the taillight and runs to that switchbox. A single phone cable runs from that box to the bundle going forward.
 

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Thanks Wally but my car is completely different to the USA version. It is a RHD but with European specs for almost everything else. As an example I do not have an emergency call system and no antenna splitter that I can find so far. I have made progress though.

Installing the new Erisin Media Unit was a lot easier than I had imagined. My OEM COMAND only had three wires to it (I have no rear screens) and two fibre-optic cables for MOST control.

The three wires in the OEM COMAND connector were, Battery 30 wire (rt/ge ie rot/gelb or red/yellow), and chassis ground 31 wire (br ie braun or brown) and a Wakeup wire (bl/sw ie blae/schwarz or blue/black).

I installed the MOST Interface Box (Erisin Fiber-Optic Decoder Box BS001) above the Media Unit using plastic ties and connected it to the OEM MOST Fibre-optics and the Battery 30 wire and the chassis ground 31 wire.

I wasn’t able to use the OEM connector and had to splice into the OEM cable. Apparently I am not supposed to connect the wakeup wire as the MOST does this job, but I couldn’t get the new Media Unit to come on without supplying +12V to the ACC (Accessories) wire.

I am doing a test tonight to see if using the Wakeup signal (12V) connected to the ACC wire will do the job. The Wake-up signal seems to stay at 12V for a long time after locking the car.

The Navigation works well with just the supplied GPS antenna but I plan to connect it to the OEM GPS antenna cable in the trunk as that signal is amplified.

I have also discovered that with no antenna connected directly to the new Media Head Unit, the AM/FM radios will not work. Tomorrow I will do some antenna testing. It was just too cold and wet outside to continue today.

I have still to connect the DAB+ radio and the rearward and forward looking cameras and the TPMS.

But so far so good and I am very pleased with the way the Head Unit fitted into the dash with minimal effort. Erisin supplied new plastic “wood grain” fascia pieces which are quite dark in appearance but I can use my OEM ones as a direct fit as they better match the rest of the trim.

The unit looks fabulous in the dash and the sound quality is very good and with a quick listen I think all speakers are working, but without any fader control (front to back). Left to right balance works OK.

Brian
PS I am sorry but I seem to have hijacked Dave's Resurrection thread with Android Media Unit Retrofit stuff, but it seems too late to change now. If an Administrator wants to transfer the head unit posts some where else that would tidy it up.
 

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Discussion Starter #331
Hi Brian,

The CAN Bus connection is what makes the H/U wake up, do not connect Acc +

CAN Bus also works the Reverse Cam at H/U end, does illum, steering wheel buttons etc. You have made no reference to a CAN Bus decoder above, did one not come with your head unit ?? You need this fitted for steering wheel buttons to work ;)

The Blue/Black Wire on your old COMAND is to wake up things like Antenna Amp, Bose Amp etc etc, and should be connected to the Blue Wire on ERISIN Power plug. That is probably why your radio is not working.

All those other little wires that say steering wheel sw, Reverse, illum and a load more just do not connect when using a CAN Bus Decoder.

HTH, Cheers Dave
 

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Hi Dave,
My Erisin ES7882S has a built in CAN Bus Controller, hence no need for an external one.

Tomorrow I will try connecting the car's OEM Blue/Black Wake-Up wire to the Erisin #13 blue wire marked "ANT/AMP Control Cable".

For my test tonight, I connected an old fashioned multimeter to the car's OEM Blue/Black Wake-Up wire. I have now left the car parked and locked for several hours and checking the meter through the window, it is still showing +12V. I suspect the car is not going to sleep and is still looking for the missing COMAND. From what I have read using SDS to code COMAND not present may just fix this issue.

I have now also read and re-read the supplied User Manual which is pathetic. The images are very hard to see the detail and the Chinglish makes it difficult to understand.

Regards,
Brian
 

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Just thinking about my previous post, I cannot fathom how having an internal CAN Bus Controller can do anything unless it has a connection to the car's CAN Bus. So far I have only +12V, Gnd and two fibre-optic connections to the Head Unit and Fiber-Optic Decoder Box BS001. Maybe I will have to connect some more wires?
 

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Discussion Starter #334 (Edited)
Hi Brian,
@ricebubbles

Sounds like your unit is a newer ERISIN than mine, connections are slightly different.

You will need to connect 2 wires to the Cars CAN Bus, the ones you need to connect to are under Carpet on Left Rocker Panel, Twisted Pairs one Brown / Red and the other Brown.

There must be 2 wires from H/U that will connect to these twisted's on the car. This is why it is not waking up without Acc Connected ;)

Right, just nicked the pic below, I've added the Red Arrow, that is the CAN Bus wiring, (green Twisteds that my arrow is touching), from H/U which needs to go to Car CAN Connector. I wouldn't mind betting, if you have just plugged the 2 connectors there together, if you look at the Connector on the Car they aren't actually connected, because your old COMAND HU was communicating to the Amplifier via F/O and the COMAND CAN Bus is actually hard wired at the Amplifier ;)

Tell me if that theory is correct or not please, but above you said that your old COMAND only had 3 wires, so no CAN at old COMAND H/U ;)

Regarding the Blue Black on your Car, do not connect this to "SWC & Other Control Cable" Harness in my pic below, see if there is a Blue in the same Harness as the CAN wires, if so connect there, that's how mine is, and Antennas work fine on Radio.

ACC+ should not be Connected nor any of "SWC & Other Control Cable" ................. This is where a lot of the guys having problems are going wrong ;) This harness is not needed on a CAN Car !!

HTH,

Cheers Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #335 (Edited)
Hi again Brian,
@ricebubbles

OK, a little addition to my post above ..........................

If you connect the 2 H/U CAN Wires, disconnect the Acc+ and then she still doesn't wake up when you switch on ignition to Acc position, simply reverse the 2 Green twisties !!

Don't forget to twist the pair of wires that you need to extend down to Rocker Panel location :wink

Once you get it to wake without Acc + try the Volume Button on Steering Wheel, it should work :grin

Note that my ERISIN requires repeated presses to raise the volume one "step" at a time, unlike the COMAND HU, where you could just press and hold + / -

HTH,

Cheers Dave
 

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Rumors of my demise are greatly exaggerated! Howdy Dave ! My goodness you have been a very busy lad! Received a note from MikeKerr the other day wondering about my fate! Well the Starship knock on wood has not been giving me any trouble so I have not been hangin out here. So checked in dropped Mike a note and started catching up on whats going on here. Well it took me most of the day to read all yer posts! LOL. Some of that early no start stuff was a tad deep for me but I kept reading.The suspense was killing me ! Will it go or not ? Well between all the technical stuff and yer Scott lingo on various items ya gave this old Yank a few good laughs . When I bought my car I told people that I bought me a Starship and you proved my point on one of yer posts explaining the German lingo. The one term that caught my attention was the one about Warp Boost ? I am still looking for that button? You must have got very tired doing all that work because I got tired just reading about it! But seriously man you have done a awesome job on that critter and by doing so helped a few folks here to. Will try not to be gone for so long next time! Ya all take care mate and keep the rubber side down. I will be watching !
.

Smokie
 

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Another update after two more days of tinkering.

Have now got all functions working on the Erisin ES7882S Media Player and am now very pleased. The sound quality is as good as the original and I do not miss the lack of fade. The steering wheel controls for volume work. The picture quality with a DVD playing is superb.

As Dave said the trick was to connect the CAN-B Bus (Internal bus). I found I do not need the OEM Wake-up signal (blue/black wire) connected at all. The Erisin powers down once the ignition key is removed and powers up again once the key is inserted all via the MOST fibre-optics.

I had to use a piece of wire stuck in the AM/FM Antenna port to get the AM/FM radio to work and will use the M-B OEM antenna with a powered splitter once I purchase all the cables. The other output from the splitter will feed the DAB+ Box. My test with the stick on window antenna proved that the USB DAB+ Box works but the placement of the antenna is critical. I had to hold the earthy side of the antenna and place it right against the windscreen to get a good signal. Without the ground (me) in place, there was no signal.

I even tested the Reversing Camera by poking the video cable through the window and connecting it to the green video in. Media Unit mutes the sound and rear view picture comes on the moment the gear shifter is put into Reverse. Even has guidance marks on the screen. Haven’t tested whether they move when you turn the steering wheel as my car is basically immobile while all in pieces. I didn’t need to connect to the Reverse Camera wire as the MOST must tell the Media Unit that the car is in Reverse.

I will now go ahead and order the 5m cables for the GPS Antenna and AM/FM Antenna plus the powered splitter. Plus a couple of new SD Cards for the GPS and the Dash Cam storage files. Dash Cam is very good quality and was easy to stick to the front windscreen just adjacent to the rear view mirror and route the cable down the A-pillar and behind the glove box. Most people wouldn’t even notice it being there except for the red LED when it is on.

When I get more time I will try to root the system and then add a M-B logo on start-up and I also like to use black wall paper as it is easier to see the icons.

Here is my diagram of the main connections but without the optional extras or the antennas shown.
Erisin ES7882S Main Connections (No Options and No Antennae).jpg

I just realised what I didn't test was the mobile phone. My Samsung S7 connected perfectly via Bluetooth and used it as a WiFi hot spot and updated all the Apps via Playstore. I did notice that the WiFi reception was poor as my mobile phone has no trouble picking up my house WiFi over about 20m range but the Erisin with its tiny little WiFi antenna couldn't find the signal at all. I tried a larger WiFi antenna off an old modem which didn't help but the Media Unit would not fit in the dash space with the large aerial fitted anyway. So it looks like I drive very close to the house for map updates or just use up some mobile data.

I have spent tonight trying to understand where the four microphones (A67b1) in the rear view mirror go. They seem to connect to the Voice Control system (A35/11) which StarFinder shows as being in the trunk. But I don't have such a device in my car and there are no microphone connections to the Audio Gateway (N93/1) which I do have. I suspect the mike signals once sorted are distributed where needed via the MOST fibre-optic system. I will try to do some tests to see if they are being used for a mobile phone call.

Regards, Brian
 

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Discussion Starter #338 (Edited)
Hi Brian,

Nice Work.

Now, that Blue Black wire, it is not there to wake up the ERISIN, it is for the ERISIN to wake up the Antenna Amplifier (on my car), on yours it may be to wake Antenna Amp, BOSE Amp, or something else.
If you have a Blue wire coming from your ERISIN main harness, not the redundant one, (SWC etc harness), then I suggest you connect that Blue to the Blue / Black on the Car ;)

As an aside, it is the CAN Bus that wakes the ERISIN, not the F/O.

BTW, when you set your dash menu to Audio, you should find you can change tracks and radio stations from steering wheel, and also Call Answer / Hang Up button should work ;)
By using SDS you can code out the redundant Tel and Navi Menus in the Dash Cluster :wink

Finally, you don't need to root the Android............... A wallpaper can be added to and then from your media card, and the MB Logo is already there in Factory Settings menu, just enter the pass code ;)

Hope this clarifies,

Cheers Dave
 

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Thanks Dave, that is great news re the logo and wallpapers. Will give it a try when my new SD cards arrive. BTW do you know what maximum size SD card the H/U will accept? I have seen 32GB mentioned but that seems low now.

Still not sure about Erisin blue wire. I didn't mention that I spent a day measuring the signals on the MB OEM Wakeup blue/black wire and the Erisin Amp/Ant-Con blue wire. I had to use my oscilloscope to see if they carried pulses (data).

The OEM Wakeup blue/black signal sits at +12V when the car is both locked and asleep, and unlocked. It momentarily pulses low to 0V when the ignition key is turned from off to on. This occurs regardless of whether the COMAND is fitted or not and I suspect the Wakeup signal originates in the EIS. There are no other signals on that wire.

It is a bit hard to tell what the CAN-B signals mean as there is heaps of CAN bus activity the moment you unlock the car. I also cannot easily monitor the MOST signals without designing an optical interface. Could be a good project in itself but I currently have enough to do fitting my Distronic as well as the Erisin.

As you said and as per my last diagram, my Erisin doesn't need the MB OEM Wakeup blue/black connection to properly turn on. Will investigate antenna issues when my new extension cables arrive in a few weeks.

I also monitored the signal on the Erisin Ant/Amp-Con blue wire. With the Erisin powered off, the blue wire is at 0V. It jumps to +12V when the Erisin turns on. It seems to me that it is a source of Media Unit switched power which could be used to activate/control external antennae or amplifiers if required. I plan to try using it to power my AM/FM and DAB antenna splitter. ATM I am not game to try connecting it to the OEM wakeup blue/black wire.

Now that I have assessed the sound quality and am very happy with it, I took your advice and removed all the loud speaker wires from the large Erisin connector. I will do the same on the smaller connectors when I have finished with all the optional extras and antenna extensions. It makes it a lot easier to fit the H/U in the dash.

Still not sure about whether to persevere trying to use the MB OEM four microphones. I understand they have a directional quality focussed on the driver with good extraneous noise cancellation. Will give it a try but I cannot find where to connect to atm.

Regards Brian
 

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Discussion Starter #340
Hi Brian,

I couldn't see the Wire from MB Mic, and even if I had it would have involved soldering a tiny plug on the Cable, maybe extending the Cable !!

What I did was to buy the ERISIN one.

I removed the UCP, and then removed the MB Mic Capsule from it's housing in UCP and swapped them, dab of hot glue to hold it in position !!

I ran the Cable down behind the A Pillar Trim and plugged into the ERISIN, job done !! Works a treat !! Still in the MB "Omni Directional Mic Housing", FWIW the actual Mic Capsules look near identical in design :wink

Re fit UCP and you'd never know I'd been in there :)

Cheers Dave
 
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