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Discussion Starter #1
Hello, I'm searching where to find the CAN busses A,B and C of the S320 W220 of the year 2000. I have some electric/ electronic problems after the infiltration of water, and here are some fault codes as B 1057, B 1079 and B 1076. Best regards.
 

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Two of them are under the carpet, close to the front of the front door on either side. So, just pull up the edge of the carpet, and you'll see them. The third is under the lower part of the dashboard, on the driver's side.

Indeed, since you're dealing with a water infiltration issue, I would suggest that you do what I did when I had that same problem. Remove the seats and pull out the carpet. Also remove the plastic trays that guide the cables. Dry everything under there and let the car finish drying for a week, preferably in the sun with the doors open, if possible. Likewise, hang up the carpet to dry; this will likewise take about a week, because the foam will have absorbed the water.

Once the interior of the car is thoroughly dry, then use a wire brush to scrub every electrical contact that you can possibly find. That includes the CAN bus connectors, the pre-fuses in the passenger footwell, the rear SAM (computer), all that stuff. Scrub it all. I actually disassembled the rear SAM and scrubbed every last electrical contact, including each individual fuse and its connectors, one at a time.

That's the only way you have a chance of fixing your electrical problems.

Did your reed valve get clogged and thus water overflowed into the passenger side? If so, then it's also a very good idea to just remove that accursed reed valve.
 

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Two of them are under the carpet, close to the front of the front door on either side. So, just pull up the edge of the carpet, and you'll see them. The third is under the lower part of the dashboard, on the driver's side.

Indeed, since you're dealing with a water infiltration issue, I would suggest that you do what I did when I had that same problem. Remove the seats and pull out the carpet. Also remove the plastic trays that guide the cables. Dry everything under there and let the car finish drying for a week, preferably in the sun with the doors open, if possible. Likewise, hang up the carpet to dry; this will likewise take about a week, because the foam will have absorbed the water.

Once the interior of the car is thoroughly dry, then use a wire brush to scrub every electrical contact that you can possibly find. That includes the CAN bus connectors, the pre-fuses in the passenger footwell, the rear SAM (computer), all that stuff. Scrub it all. I actually disassembled the rear SAM and scrubbed every last electrical contact, including each individual fuse and its connectors, one at a time.

That's the only way you have a chance of fixing your electrical problems.

Did your reed valve get clogged and thus water overflowed into the passenger side? If so, then it's also a very good idea to just remove that accursed reed valve.
**
Hallo,
Thanks a lot (!) of all these details -- but:
1.) I don't know what that is: the reed valve … i will search the traduction in german or french ...
2.) I wanted to get out the seats, but this is quiet a nausty affaire … if you have some tutoriels this will be great !!
I will see tomorrow !
 

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Open the hood (bonnet).

Look at the right rear corner and find the large black plastic air intake grille. (REMEMBER that "left" and "right" on a vehicle are always from the viewpoint of the seated operator. This means that as you stand in front of the car, facing the engine, the right headlight is on your left side. Likewise, the right rear corner of the engine compartment is on your left!)

Look down to the bottom of the HVAC (Heating/Ventilation/Air Conditioning) plenum under the black grille, preferably using a flashlight (torch) or other strong light source, and find the drain in the outboard corner. If there is a plastic gadget in the drain hole, make absolutely certain that the drain hole is open so that water can drain freely. If the drain is dirty, or there is stuff in the bottom of the plenum, pop the plastic grille out by unsnapping it at the slot openings around the edge. Many people just remove the reed valve put into the drain hole at the factory. The factory also issued a TSB (Tech Support Bulletin) giving directions for drilling a drain hole in the lower part of the plenum.

If this drain is at all restricted, you are in for a world of pain and expense from water damage.
 

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And for the seat removal, that's in the Encyclopaedia of Stickies.


One post for how to remove the seat is here. I've done it plenty of times; the hardest part is removing the air line for the lumbar supports. Everything else is actually pretty easy, but take a picture of the electrical connections with your cell phone camera or similar, beforehand.

 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the links --- I just have to check some electrical whirings before i will remove the seats.
 

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Hi,

The longer you leave it the worse it will get, especially if Battery is still connected.

It's been 3 to 4 Days now :(

You do not have physical faults, you have wet electronics.

Get it dried out like yesterday or it will cost you more, a lot more !!

HTH,
 

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Have you removed the seats? If not, then you have not dried the electrical circuits. I've already had to do this before, so trust me on that point. You must pull the seats and remove the carpet to get all the water out of there.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Hi, there is no more tension on all the buttons to move the seat to get to the screws. How did you manage the problem?
 

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Wait...you're saying you cannot move the seats at all anymore with the buttons?

If that's the case, then it's time for you to get a 12V battery and hook it up to the motor control directly. I had to do that. It's somewhere in the Encyclopedia of Stickies where the hookup is; it's one of the yellow connectors underneath the seat.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Hi, I don't understand where i can find your Stickies … i've got to electrical system of the encyclopedia, but weher do i find your stickies and the hook-up point?
 

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We often confuse new folks by assuming that they understand our "standard" terms...

When you first come onto the W220 Forum, there are a number of threads at the top of the page, then there is a (rather faint, on my screen) bar across the page, and under that more threads.

The threads at the top of the page are located there semi-permanently, as they are more or less "reference" information, and the only changes are rare ones for corrections or additions to the information. The casual term for those on the Forum are "stickies", since they don't move. There is a HUGE amount of very useful information in these reference threads, and it is well worthwhile spending time exploring there.

The threads under the bar are the current discussions, and they slowly move down the page as they are replaced by newer discussions.

The "SEARCH" function at the top of the page will help you find specific information in both parts of the Forum.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Hi, I hear/read some comments, that the car can be put in the state of 'sleeping', especialy all the Cans and CAN bus communication. I wonder, if this has hapened to my car S320 W220 of the year 2000. Is that possible?
I also wonder, why i find only some 0.75V on the relays of the SAM and i found, that the thick red cable going to the SAM also has only 0.75V. Is that ok?
 

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"...the thick red cable going to the SAM also has only 0.75V."

That is probably not good. I would start by disconnecting the ground/earth battery cable and making certain that it cannot creep back into contact with the battery. Then I would inspect and clean all of the primary fuse and cable connections, including both the ones under the trunk lining just forward of the battery and the ones under the aluminum cover under the right front carpet. I would also check and clean all main battery cable connections, being sure to include where the ground/earth cable connects to the chassis.

After reconnecting and checking everything (with the ground/earth to battery being the last connection, I would do all of the necessary resets. (These resets are covered in the encyclopedia threads found in the blue stickies at the top of the first page of the Forum.)
 

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Can Buses on all Cars are supposed to go to sleep when the Ignition is off and the Car locked and they re awake when you unlock the car.

We have already told you what is wrong, have you taken those seats and carpets out yet ??
If not you might as well send the Car to Scrap.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Hi, I've got out the passengers seat -- there was indead still some water left -- i've got it dry … and i brushed the contacts (allmost mass contacts) properly of the habitacle, but most of all the clips going to the rear SAM are no good -- they are all corrosif. So, i think i will have to scrub all the fuses of the rear SAM, is that right?
I've mesured the tension on the red thick cable: it's know about 1.25 V this is still not okay -- i know. I will continue with the efforts.
I do have a question to Wallyp: i did find the black grille in the back, but i did not understand how to open this grille, to find the reed valve. This is for some day later.
Beacause i will leave for some days … have a break.
I will tell you the rest wahen i came back --- thanks for all the comments!
(My English is not so good, i don't understand all of your comments --- but i do my best)
 
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