[2011dandd]

Hi everyone I’m brand new to the forum. Looking for some help and advice if possible.

I have not had my e220 estate for long and am unfamiliar with mercs.

Just this week My engine has started to stall immediately on start up until it gets warm. the idle revs seem to have dropped for some reason.

can anyone point me in the right direction on how to fix this problem.
Thanks in advance

Dan

 

[sbaert]

First thing to do is to check the batt condition and voltage.

If the battery is 4 - 5 years old or more, just get a new quality battery of the proper size. The battery is critical in these cars.

Second, after ruling out the battery it is time to take some voltage readings at the battery.

Get the car up to full operating temp, leave the engine running and measure voltage at the battery. Then turn on EVERYTHING electricall (high beams, fogs, rear defrost, max A/C, heated seats, etc, etc, etc) simultaneously. Take 2nd voltage reading.

Also let us know if the eco junk wiring misery has been addressed. Without new main engine harnesses, these cars cannot be reliably diagnosed.

Report back with your findings.

 

[2011dandd]

Will do. Thank you

battery is brand new and correct size. I got a new battery about 3months ago.
I’ll get the voltage meter out and report back.
What might this be indicative off then? As everything I have read on line suggests any one of lots of sensors?
cheers

 

[sbaert]

You should be seeing readings between 13.5V-14.5V

Suspect and verify the harness before thinking about bad sensors. If you're undercharging, your electronics aren't getting enough juice to functional properly. Could be as simple as a worn out voltage regulator. Same thing if you're overcharging.

Check the harness build date on the tag by the OVP relay.

 

[Jayare]

What in the way of service history do you have for the car? Sharing all that with us will really help. Mileage, etc etc should be there as well.

Also, are you going to be the DIY type owner or will you have to rely on independent shops to address the cars needs?

Welcome to W124 forum. There is a deep well.of knowledge here, so work with us and we'll do the best we can to help you enjoy the car to it's fullest.

Jayare

Sent from my XT1710-02 using Tapatalk

 

[2011dandd]

Thanks for the heads up, of course that all makes sense.

My s124 is the e220
152000 miles
Great service history in my opinion, not all main dealer but have all paper work to show it was always looked after (service wise)
I am indeed a DIY fixer.

If time allows I will be cleaning the throttle body and maf sensor today to see if this helps at all. And will have a look for my voltage tester, I know it’s about somewhere.

 

[sbaert]

Cleaning MAF sensors is a old wife's tale. Does little to nothing. MAFs are a wear and tear part, they don't last forever.

Ditto on cleaning throttle bodies. And in the case of your car, if it still has the original eco junk wiring, it will most likely do more harm then good since the throttle body is also made from said eco junk.

 

[Jayare]

Thanks for the heads up, of course that all makes sense.

My s124 is the e220
152000 miles
Great service history in my opinion, not all main dealer but have all paper work to show it was always looked after (service wise)
I am indeed a DIY fixer.

If time allows I will be cleaning the throttle body and maf sensor today to see if this helps at all. And will have a look for my voltage tester, I know it’s about somewhere.

Year? List the specifics of the service records you have.

Sent from my XT1710-02 using Tapatalk

 

[tuttebenne]

With eco junk wiring getting worse, bad EHAs, expensive fuel distributors, aging injectors and seals, etc, etc, this set up just solves so many problems:

 

[2011dandd]

I will dig the service records out when the kids are dealt with.
Its a 1995 model.

As I was about to start cleaning the throttle body ( before reading the latest posts) I noticed a little spring that was broken at one end and dangling freely doing nothing.

is this an idle spring?

hopefully the picture loads, the spring has broken from the right of the butterfly mech

 

[plinker17722]

I would start with replacing all the items in the HT system like distributor cap plugs rotor arm and ht leads for a brand like Bosch or Beru .. Also the vacuum system for leaks .. And check on all of your fuses Then you can look for other problems if its not cured.But once this is done you can forget it for years to come When its been working good then it starts to show signs i go through all the ht system first .. good luck

 

[2011dandd]

Thanks for your advice
The exact symptoms are
At cold starting it stalls instantly
Once warm in neutral or park it idles at 1000rpm happily
Once drive or reverse is selected it drops to 5000 and struggles.

is this not a clear cut problem/fault ?

 

[Jayare]

No, it isn't a clear cut problem/solution. Have you replaced the broken spring? Are both fuel pumps working? Have you replaced the OVP relay or at least checked the fuse/fuses?

Jayare

Sent from my XT1710-02 using Tapatalk

 

[sbaert]

I would start with replacing all the items in the HT system like distributor cap plugs rotor arm and ht leads for a brand like Bosch or Beru...

OP has a M111, so no distributor and related parts to worry about. However, the M111 does use a disposable ignition system.

The entire ignition system ( 2 coils, 2 coil to plug boots, and 2 plug wires) is due for replacement every about 10 years or 150K mi/250 K km whichever occurs first. Also, the ONLY suitable plug for that engine is the Bosch F8DC4. No exceptions whatsoever, and stick with Bosch branded replacement components.

 

[2011dandd]

Bloody hell this is all a bit overwhelming, I am much more accustomed to dealing with simpler older mechanics.
I’m going to have to get a lot more familiar and up to speed with my car. I didn't even know the exact model of engine I had until it was just mentioned.
cheers for all the help.

ps I’m trying to find the spring but I’m not paying £25 that Mercedes of Newcastle want for 5 of them. I’ll find a spring somewhere

 

[sbaert]

One more thing, the spark plugs need replacement every 30K mi/50K km with the type I specified above.

I cannot stress enough how important it is to use the proper spec plug. Accept no substitute.