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S-Class How To Make a Double Din Bezel For Aftermarket Headunits

54830 Views 37 Replies 26 Participants Last post by  adrenaline12055
11
A few months ago I seen a member online who said they had double din bezels for the Mercedes. I contacted them, and every time I called/or messaged them I got the same response "They will be in on Friday". I heard this for about 2-1/2 months. I decided to just make one myself. I didnt really have a chance before because I had no spare time to do it. So finally last week I started the custom mod. Here is how a custom bezel is made.

Here is the original bezel before



Here is the bezel after I cut the 3 holes next to the nav screen hole out. It becomes one huge opening now, so I took some MDF board and cut it exactly to fit in the size of the hole. Next take your MDF and cut the double din opening in the center of the MDF. Test fit your head unit in the opening.

Now you put the MDF into the bezel gap (if cut correct it will fit snug). Next you will take Bondo and fill in the line thats between the MDF and wood bezel. Next sand that down until you get it smooth. Add more bondo/body filler as needed. Continue sanding until the MDF looks as it is one with the bezel. Test fit your double din head unit for perfect fitment.

Let sit for a few awhile, then add first coat of primer. Let dry, and then sand again until smooth. Add second coat of primer. If it comes out smooth you should have a bezel that looks like this below. Test fit the head unit again.



Next you will need to paint the bezel. I chose to make it look factory so I had mine airbrushed to match the existing wood in my S-500. I took the passenger window switch wood panel out to use as a template for wood tone matching. You can paint your ]s any color you want or find a good airbrush person to paint it for you. Here is my bezel after airbrushing.



Next you will need to have the bezel clear coated. Let the clear dry. Check it for any bubbles, dirt spots, or any other imperfections. After that I wet sanded it very carefully. Be extra careful so you don't go thru the clear and damage the airbrush work. I then shoot the final clear coat. Do Not Bake the bezel is a paint booth. Let dry for 24 hours before you install the bezel. Here is what the final product will look like. If you have any questions feel free to ask.

//http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh121/stinkypinky112/103_0060.jpg









Here pictured below is my ML that I also did a custom bezel for. I wrapped the bezel in suade for this install.




Here is my S500 that I bought 2 months ago. I got it at a dealership that I do work for. It was a trade-in. I bought it with 52,000 miles on it for $8,000 dollars. She has every option AC/Heated Seats, Rear Heated Seats, Massage seats, Power rear shade. She is very very clean. I have only done a few things to the car. I have painted the tail lights a light smoke with the clear lines taped off, 22" rims, and just put the Pioneer Navigation unit. She is a beautiful car and drives well, although I dont drive it much. I usually drive my Escalade EXT.



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Anyone who wants a custom bezel made for any Mercedes feel free to PM me to discuss your bezel. As you can see from the pictures I posted these bezels I make are very high end quality. You will not find this quality of custom bezel anywhere else. I have made several of these and they turn out flawless. You can get one done to match the factory wood grain finish or any other color of your choice. PM me for further details. Thanks
please pm me at [email protected] for your prices and available.. I have a 2001 S430 and need a Double DIN bezel. thanks B
Awesome job. I was considering a Comand system to replace the stock audio 10 system. Now I have seen this, it would be a more impressive route.

I have always been told that it is not possible to integrate an aftermarket unit with the Mercedes d2b bus system or amplifier. How was this achieved? Does it involve extensive rewiring? Does it cause any malfunction notifications?

I would love to know as this outcome is great. Really good job.

Also - 22" rims - wow - what modification to the arches did you have to complete to achieve this? I am considering 18"s but thought they might rub?

Thanks in advance for your thoughts and responses
Anyone who wants a custom bezel made for any Mercedes feel free to PM me to discuss your bezel. As you can see from the pictures I posted these bezels I make are very high end quality. You will not find this quality of custom bezel anywhere else. I have made several of these and they turn out flawless. You can get one done to match the factory wood grain finish or any other color of your choice. PM me for further details. Thanks
Please PM me at: [email protected] I have a 2000 s500. I am very impressed with your work.:bowdown:
so whats the status? Anyone get the OP to do a bezel for them yet? Also id like to know like someone else mentioned, how you were able to connect an aftermarket head unit with your stock sound system. Thanks for any advice
Awesome job. I was considering a Comand system to replace the stock audio 10 system. Now I have seen this, it would be a more impressive route.

I have always been told that it is not possible to integrate an aftermarket unit with the Mercedes d2b bus system or amplifier. How was this achieved? Does it involve extensive rewiring? Does it cause any malfunction notifications?

I would love to know as this outcome is great. Really good job.

Also - 22" rims - wow - what modification to the arches did you have to complete to achieve this? I am considering 18"s but thought they might rub?

Thanks in advance for your thoughts and responses
We really need to set some definitive answers on the stereo scenario.

Before anyone takes on the stereo in this car, they need to understand what all can be involved due to the complex nature of the W220's stereo. Replacing a headunit or amp isn't just the simple task of pulling and plugging wires. The fiber optics in this car make it near impossible to just plug & play with anything. That said...

Headunit
Yes – you can replace your headunit with an aftermarket unit. You will have to source your own dash bezel as I haven't seen those Chinese double din pieces around in a while. You will be on your own as far as wiring goes (sourcing power, ground, etc). From what I have been told, the connections between the headunit and the amp are fiber optic. Meaning you will have to run new wiring from the front headunit to the amp in the back for your amp input.

Amplifier
This also implies you will need a new amp. The old amp had fiber optic input, which I doubt your new headunit gives as output.( You may be able to get around all of this if you have a MOST car, as there are fiber optic line converters, see: http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w220-s-class/1553904-adding-2-10in-subs-amp-stock.html) You will have to find an amp that will have suitable wattage and enough channels for the numerous speakers in the car. The biggest problem you will run into is that the stock Bose amp is a 2ohm amp. Finding a 2 ohm amp is near impossible. As Skylaw will tell you, it may be possible to find an amp that will work with your 2ohm speakers. This is getting out of my realm of knowledge so I would suggest you contact someone with a lot of experience in car audio about this.

If you wanted to change speakers, sub woofers, or anything else, that should be *fairly* simple. Keep in mind with the change to any aftermarket headunit, you will most likely loose steering wheel controls. There is a PAC-Audio kit designed for later model W220s, but I haven't seen anyone install it and confirm its use.

Remember, any changes you make to the car can cause unforeseen consequences. Messing around with the fiber optics or audio (without knowing what your doing) can be a great way to learn, but you may end up turning your operable stereo into a worthless piece of junk. No one can guarantee results unless you take it to an audio shop. You may find that after you have hooked up all of your new equipment, you have in the process caused the car to throw errors and codes.

If you take on such a venture yourself, more power to you. Make us a write up and explain in detail so that once and for all we can have a definitive answer to the numerous questions. Likewise, I will do the same if I ever scarf up enough money for a new system.
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I m in the process of installing a new headunit with the amp following a new speakers.

I kept the existing bazel, and the comand unit. Bought another bazel, made a double din bazel out of it and installed Clarion nx 5900e unit- thats a dual zone dvd-divx player with build in navigation and full speed iPod control.
I m no good at painting/preparing so it took me hours of getting bazel look alright, but I m still working on it. its getting Piano black effect, so need few more coats till I m happy with it.


sorry for a crapy pic.

ISO plug plugs into new headunit with no questions. you need to connect ignition wire- which is easiest to pick up from ashtray/lighter. Sound then goes direct to the speakers and sub. Not sure how its picking up a sub on it way, but all system works.

As I m progress on the install I will update this here.

I have laid the phono cables on the pasengers side(UK car, so its a RHD) its very easy and plenty of space for the cables. Phono cable will be conected to the Amp in the boot.

Location of the amp.

Amp have to sit on the side, there the CD chabger used to live, as you cannot bolt iit to the rear seat, as its a fuel tank. would be fan to screw it to the tank I believe..
Power suplly is obvious-battery is just there, and remote cable is just a single wire from head unit.

and from there I will run cables to go back into the ISO plug, if I wont find an easier route to pick up speaker cables+sub cable.


Standard / Bose speakers.

I had all nokia standard thingy in the car, bought the Bose speakers to replace- and to me the sound even worse now. Well nothing really special in those Bose speakers as they just old. I wont say I know it for 100% but I heard in hte past you need to change speakers every 4 years, if you after a perfect sound, as they just got exhausted.

On the other hand, Bose are better couse you can actually unscrew them from the holding adapter(unit) that beed fixed to the door.

so I will bin the bose speakers and replace with components of my choice.

Difficult bit is how to remove/exchange the sub in the rear shelf. as it cannot be removed from the trunk, so you need to remove the rear shelf. Havent done that bit yet, so if someone knows how to do it- help :)

Now steering controls. I understand there is a plug thats left from comand unit that just do the steering controls. I will bee soon studying it as how it works, and see if that some radio electronic specialist can combine with headunit.

I m not sad of loosing the controls, as it controls the volume and track. but of the comand unit, which is: cd changer not working, tel not working, tv not working, so I m left with tape and radio. Have to admit Navigation works ok, but its a pain to enter the location you wana go, and the rest, comparing to new recent units.
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update

More info for those who doing it,

3 pairs of RCA going to the boot. front, right and sub from the head unit.

4 pairs of audio cable coming back same way to the ISO connector to plug into te cars speakers connector.

Now the cars connector- its not 4 pairs, its 5 pairs. w220 have a central channel. on the dash next to windscreen ( well at least I never knew it) so one cable sharing ground with fronts I believe, and one sharing ground with rears for the sub.

Thats on the car without Bose from factory. I did swaped original speakers with bose, but Bose simply sucks,

so, after connecting speakers to the amp- front ones died short time after,
so the middbass speaker been replaced with 4 oms ones.

rear for now still bose, but will be replaced soon, as I can hear them clicking on load.

Now rear shelf.
You cannot remove sub without removing rear seats and a rear shelf, I heard of someone cutting peace by peace from the trunk, but thats not human. ;)

so remove rear bench, its got on each side button alike thingy, just push it and the seat is off, then undo 3 screws for the rear back, and you on the shelf.

you need to remove headrests in order to remove the shelf, so-carefully pull-push little black levers next to the headrest holders(plustic pipes there the headrest goes to) to get to them you need to unclip the plastic covers that goes around chrome pipes and pull the headrest away, now I managed to undo only one side of each headrest that way, and then twisted the headrest to the side, and pulled just using brutal force. I pluged them back same way, and they back and working as should.

once you remove all 3- remove the side covers (there the airbag plastic cover) and undo those as well.

thats it, the shelf is yours, remove it- and here we go sub is yours as well.

Now all of it is complicated if you never done it before and dont know how to remove it all. First time I did it- I wasnt sure I can get to it. but then I replaced original sub with the bose one and put it all together-and 2nd time I did it all again, but this time I replaced it with JBL 10 inch sub.

What is the difference. The original nokia sub having 2 connectors, then the Bose have only one, so I connect one connector only, but its not giving any bass, it just plays as a rear speaker. so no point really as the Bose runs the sub from the amp- and then it make sense.

The result was to replace bose with the JBL, and plug in separate amp for the sub.

to get aftermarket sub in there I done some MDF rings, as the cutout in the metal almost 10 inch, and the sub 10 inch, so its like an adapter to house the 10 inch sub in place. I did 3 rings, to get the sub as high as possible so it doesnt stick out much in the boot.

You can use shallow mount sub, then it will stick out way less, or maybe wont at all.

But at this stage its ok with me, as its sticks out 2-3 inches, in the boot space, but I still got plenty of space.

After all this the sound is amazing. its very dynamic sound at all levels, and distortion only comes at very very loud level.
I m not using sub on full power, as the car shaking(from sound) but I m using it just to get me some low frequency not to stress the front speakers much.

I will be adjusting it to my perfection, but mostly its rear speakers, and amps. as I have 2 different brands now, want to have same amps-one 4 channel, one 2 channel, and yes, you can fit them on the rear cover that covers petrol tank, just use small bolts with nuts, and its ok, its quite strong.

So I m hoping this will be usefull to someone, as then I started there wasnt much info on how and that is there.
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hello nice project you got there my friend! where did you get the after maket radio wire harness
i've been looking everywhere but i can't find it at all, and can you tell me where did you get the radio wire harness please.
thanks

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Bezel Request???

Absolutely beautiful work! I am need of a custom bezel for my Bird and was wondering if I could possible pay you to create one? I attached a link of what I need(no response form the creator for my request) I open to what might look best for the finish and could sen additional pictures of my interior so it would best match the look. Thanks for your time!

Scott


http://knightrideronline.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=16050
Absolutely beautiful work! I am need of a custom bezel for my Bird and was wondering if I could possible pay you to create one? I attached a link of what I need(no response form the creator for my request) I open to what might look best for the finish and could sen additional pictures of my interior so it would best match the look. Thanks for your time!

Scott


knight rider online • View topic - Knight 2000 3rd Gen. T/A Custom Radio Frame
Yeah i need That Aftermaket radio wire harness Too, Where can i buy it guys?
Where to run the cables?

More info for those who doing it,

3 pairs of RCA going to the boot. front, right and sub from the head unit.

4 pairs of audio cable coming back same way to the ISO connector to plug into te cars speakers connector.

Now the cars connector- its not 4 pairs, its 5 pairs. w220 have a central channel. on the dash next to windscreen ( well at least I never knew it) so one cable sharing ground with fronts I believe, and one sharing ground with rears for the sub.
Is this the channel I should use to connect a headphone connector to the audio-In of the analog TV in the boot? If yes, where does the channel start and end?

If no, where would I run the cable? Under the carpet? Where is the opening between the boot and the interior?
LuScola do u still do this custom work on the bezel? Or maybe u can point me in the direction of how to buy one??
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