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Recently I repaired the rust bubbles on the front fender wings however upon taking off the plastic covers found in the front wheel wells I saw alot more rust not on the chassis frame portion but on everything else such as mountings and right behind the headlights area. Didn't look good. I am contemplating in selling the car now cause of it. I understand the car saw Canadian winters but so did my previous even older Jeep which is not of an "overbuilt money no object car" and it held up much better than this car or any MB.

Is this a known thing in this area of the car?
 

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1999 S600 Sedan, 1999 S600 w/ 4-pl seating, 1995 S600 Coupe, 2-1992 600SEL's, 2002 ML55, 1998 SL600
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Two things: The 140 has excellent anti-rust properties. That said, there is only one area that can be a rust accumulator: the area around the back trunk lock.

You may have had the fender/wing previously replaced by a non-knowledgable technician who didn't apply the proper corrosion resistance to the part.

Having painted an entire 140, I found the lock issue, and noted one of my door panels, previously replaced, was NOT treated with the corrosion resistance and had to be replaced (properly).
 

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Discussion Starter #3
If the W140 has excellent anti-rustproperties, why am I repaired rotted out front fender wings from rust. Honda's do not even rust this bad.
 

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1990 190D, 1997 S300 Turbo Diesel, 2002 ML270 CDI
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I suggest you sell the the car. And then buy a corrosion free car.

rgds
Odd
 

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1995 s500, 2004 s500, 1991 190e
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I would sell it and buy one with a straight, rust free body. I fixed rust that was starting around my trunk and fenders and it cost quite a bit, the only reason I spent all that money was because my heart was bigger than my head. If you don't do it right the first time it will come back and spread more. Plus who knows how much rust is in other places of your car that you haven't checked? Unless it has sentimental value it would probably be better to part or sell it.
 

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1999 S600 Sedan, 1999 S600 w/ 4-pl seating, 1995 S600 Coupe, 2-1992 600SEL's, 2002 ML55, 1998 SL600
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Being in the Northeast, we get our share of rust buckets. But if carefully looked after, our 140's are actually pretty good.

You can pick up any of the MB sales brochures that feature our cars to get a better understanding of the many steps MB went through to prevent rust and corrosion. They're readily available on eBay.

Meanwhile, a rusty part on your car, when compared side to side, may be an indication of a repair done cheaply. Off brand parts may have been used, or the technician doing the repair didn't follow the MB preparation process.

And obviously cars that have extensive rusting may be an indication they were simply abused, so you wouldn't want to buy them anyway.

I have two 1992's, a 1995, and a 1999 w140, all of which are completely rust-free. The one that I repainted and found the rust was left to rot outdoors for about 5 to 6 years, exposed to the elements, but even that didn't produce extensive rusting. This is a photo of the car BEFORE rehab, sitting in the outdoors for a very long time. Note the finish is worn away, the bumpers are cloudy, but no rust.
 

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1999 S600 Sedan, 1999 S600 w/ 4-pl seating, 1995 S600 Coupe, 2-1992 600SEL's, 2002 ML55, 1998 SL600
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More photos:
 

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1999 S600 Sedan, 1999 S600 w/ 4-pl seating, 1995 S600 Coupe, 2-1992 600SEL's, 2002 ML55, 1998 SL600
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Looking at these photos reminded me of something I did: Even though the car was kept outside while I figured out what I was going to do with it, I did have a couple of kids wash it in place and put a couple of coats of wax on it, just to protect whatever was there. I was also able to get a good idea if there were any severe rusting issues. Having found none to speak of, the car proved to be a good one for rehabilitating.

And of course, it is just brilliant today, with a fresh (proper) paint job and new/nearly new mechanicals.
 

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1999 S600 Sedan, 1999 S600 w/ 4-pl seating, 1995 S600 Coupe, 2-1992 600SEL's, 2002 ML55, 1998 SL600
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Quoting from the 1992 S-Class sales brochure (page 13)

"Bodies are sheltered when moving from welding assemble to coatings, to avoid chance exposure to weather.
Galvanized steel used for body sections like to be exposed to the elements.
Zinc-phosphate bath to clean metal, followed by a stabilizing chromate rinse.
Epoxy primer molecularly bonded to the entire body shell via a cataphortic dip process.
Quality inspection.
About 32 pounds of sealant sprayed and hand-applied to welded seams, underbody and other potentially exposed areas.
Two resilient synthetic coatings from the beltline down.
Quality inspection.
Second primer with filler properties.
Quality inspection.
Color match primer (metallic paint only).
Quality inspection.
Color with hardener (or metallic base for metallic paint).
Quality inspection.
Urethane clear coat with hardener (most color).
Quality inspection.
Hot wax injected into door bottoms and body cavities (NOTE: I HAVE SEEN THIS WAX WHEN MY CARS WERE TAKEN APART - Stryker)
Wax coating inspection using ultraviolet light.
Tough, resilient bumpers, wheel-well liners (front only) lower body panels fitted to help resist paint damage from flying stones, gravel, debris.
Quality inspection.
Cosmoline coating for protection during overseas shipping."

End of quote.

Pretty amazing, eh??
 

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1999 E320
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^Some pretty good info. If only they did that much inspecting and had that much quality and care put into their cars today! Mine was repainted by the previous owner, not the best job as rust around the wheel wells, trunk lock, under the windows and under the doors is all beginning to show. I've fixed everything except for the trunk lock area. Its turning out pretty well...but check under your doors, thats a pretty bad spot for rust if you live in areas with lots of road salt used like i do :(. But, i used anti-rust paint to fix it and its holding up pretty well so far :) These cars are great, and if mine ever dies im just going to buy another one!
 

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1982 300SD
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o boy

By way of brief introduction, as far as I know, there is nothing I can't destroy if given the opportunity to fix whatever it may be. I'm unusually talented in this regard. In fact, and not to brag, I don't believe anyone comes close to my proven track record over many grueling years of hard work and dedication. I have even begun to experiment with a new, rather mystical technique by simply forming a mental image of what needs to be done to repair the engine, door, brakes, you name it, and, not kidding here, the whole project blows up.

I have an old sweet-pea, an '82 300SD, the love of my life, though we do fight occasionally. She means the world to me and despite her rusting uni-body, she performs like a beauty queen half her age.

Ladies and gentlemen, I'm willing to patch and stitch and replace everything necessary to keep her by my side and I don't need her for long or routine trips around town. I'd just like to take her to a movie and out to dinner once a week. How bad does the rust have to be before she's just not safe to take on the road? Any thoughts, experiences or offers to volunteer to do all the labor it's going to take?

Thanks to one and all
 

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1995 Mercedes S420, 1995 SL320, 2000 Land Rover Discovery II, 1985 Lotus Turbo Esprit
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For a 1982 300SD, this question is probably more appropriate to the W126 forum.

I'd suggest posting some pictures of your car and in particular the areas of concern. Rust can be a very tricky problem to properly diagnose and repair, so as much info as you can provide would probably be very helpful.
 

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99 s320 member since 2009 fastest time 14.6 1/4 mile nitrous.
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I use to have a 60s model 4 door fiat.In the owners manual it talked about snow treatments,and what to do. At that time,they would drive their cars thru a pit ,with old motor oil,and not wash car underneath till winter was over.
I live in the country,I take a garden sprayer,with half diesel,half old motor oil, then spray everywhere I think salt will hide.Every fall.
 

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W140 Mercedes 500 SE, 1992, European, 410.000 km
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the truth (in this part of the world where NO rust protection is used in any body shop ... no one never heard for it) is:

the car has to be taken every 3 - 5 years into the body shop to remove the rust. painting follows.That's it. in most sophisticated shops they maybe use zinc over affected areas. I say "maybe" because I was told so but I do not trust to anybody. So I spend ca 700 EUR every 5 years to "renew" my fenders, hood, and some other small areas like area around the trunk lock. Next time I should renew all doors also, and it will be ca 1000 EUR in total with things which I itemized above.

BTW, the mercedes cars, if they are pretty old (10 or 15 years), are rusty here. It is pretty normal. the rule is that if less than 10% of total surface of the car is rusty, the car is safe and it passes technical test for one another year (beside other things like exhaust gasses ...).
 

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1996 Mercedes-Benz S320L
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In Denmark, we have shops that specialize in rust protection. They wash the car with hot water, then spray the undercarriage, door sills and inner fenders etc. with special rust preventative material. Here is a video of how one of these companies do it. It's in Danish but you get the idea.

 

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W140 Mercedes 500 SE, 1992, European, 410.000 km
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that kind of protection is of course available here, too. i meant protection of the car body in my above reply.
 
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