[SChalmers]

I know I have been asking a few questions lately, so bare with me on this one.
I just picked up my car from the body shop after getting the rust cleaned up/repaired.
The body shop informed me that my 2000 S430 is just one of the bad years for Mercedes and rust. It seems my 1998 E430 was in the same category as well.
So this is my question when are the good years for rust(meaning less rust). I am getting so sick of owning Mercedes that run 300% and rust out.
I just spend $1600(taxes in) getting rust on bottom of doors, roof at driver's side top windshield, front right corner of sunroof, both front fenders at bumper cover/bottom behind wheel, both rear wheel arches and both rear quarters at bumper cover. The body shop says these are all the spots where they rust.
Also the body shop stated that it was repaired before in all the same spots once professional and once by a hack( I sent it to the hack)
The car looks fantastic now but what I ma worried about is more rust. I am almost at the point of selling and buying a different year so I do not have to deal with rust
Before pictures you can see in the last picture the job the hack did. Sorry about the pictures taken last minute as I dropped off the car with my cell phone
Any advice will be greatly appreciated
Thanks
Scott

 

[SChalmers]

After Pictures

Not close ups but they did a great job. I would highly recommend for anyone in the Toronto area
They did a great blend job. Paint both front fenders completely, doors from moldings down, complete roof and both rear quarters to the roof

 

[Bullethead_D]

The problem of the rust was explored on a basis of a dissertation (2000) for microbial infestation of paint immersion baths.


MB has underestimated the presence of bacteria whilst the conversion from acrylic -based immersion baths to water -based immersion baths the problem of bacteria (in the toxic broth of acrylic paints no bacteria could develop)- not only for the W220. When the immersion bath was contaminated by bacteria follows rust, rust, rust.


There is probably a gradual transition from year to year. There seems to be a transition from nasty rust buckets into quite a decent durability towards the end (2003 - 2005).

But also during the first years you can see cars that still stand 1A, which then seem to be those that just had the luck, relatively shortly after the exchange of the paint dipping bath - before the bacteria arise - to have been painted.

For those how speak German here is the link to the source.

 

[Skylaw]

As I understand it, MB also went to body metal that was zinc-coated on both sides around 2003. Prior to that, it was coated on just one side.

 

[Bullethead_D]

As I understand it, MB also went to body metal that was zinc-coated on both sides around 2003. Prior to that, it was coated on just one side.

They used BONAZINC beginning at 1998 and that was the other flop. The zinc coat was too thin.

Originally posted (but translated) 1998 on " Bonazinc " at 02.04.1998 Hannover Fair Industry:

3000 Bonazinc sheet with weldable primer.

3000 Bonazinc significantly improved the corrosion resistance of galvanized steel sheets , so secondary corrosion protection efforts such as cavity sealing and e.g. seam sealing in the automotive industry can be significantly reduced or completely eliminated.

Increasing demands on the corrosion resistance the early 80s led to progressive use of electrolytically or hot-dip galvanized steel sheets as materials for car body .

The target for energy saving and thickness reduction in conjunction with a long-term guarantee against rusting also requires improving the protection against corrosion cavity. Bonazinc -coated steel sheets not only meet the requirements for improving the corrosion resistance and the reduction of secondary corrosion protection, but it also lead to a reduction of process steps at the automobile manufacturer .

Thus ensuring Bonazinc- coated steel sheets and an improved long-term corrosion protection of the automobile at the same time avoiding polluting and costly processing measures at the automobile manufacturer .

Detailed articles and more photos we send to you on request .


Preussag Stahl AG
Dr. Udo Müller
Phone: 0 53 41/21 47 80
Fax 0 53 41/21 29 63

 

[SChalmers]

Thank you all for the advice

So since mine has been repaired so many times I guess I am going to get the rust back since the Zinc coating has been compromised a couple times.

My 1998 E430 was a strong smooth running car with just under 300,000 km or 186,000 miles. I would have drove that car with that mileage from my place in Toronto to Panama with out any concerns(well except the body falling off on the way).

So after buying a high mileage E430 with rust I decided to buy a lower mileage 2000 S430 with just a couple very little spots of rust. This was completely my mistake as the colour of the car really hid the rust well with just a little road dirty. My surprise when I washed it by hand and noticed all the bubbling.

So I was quoted by the guy that completely screw up the paint and body an low price. I actually am the person that always says you get what you pay for. But having my wife nagging me that I bought another rust bucket I went with the cheap so i could say look not a rust bucket it only cost $300 to fix.
The $300 job was horrid (do not want to offend anyone on this comment) but a blind person could see the blending. After this I brought it to a couple different body shops one said they guy took your $5000 dollar car and made it into a $1000 car another did not even want to touch it. I found a shop that said he would fix it but figured I should wait till the rust comes back which I did two months. We could not seem to get the car in it was either he was swamped or I was using it. Anyway found this shop which did the car now and it is done.

So after the ramble above I am disappointed in this car now.So not sure if I should trade it in on a newer one or run this car till it drops.
The car has 154,000 km or about 92,000 miles and should run for another 160,000km or 100,000 miles but I bet the body will only last a year at best

I guess what I am asking is 2003 might still be a rust bucket but 2004 or even a late 2003 might be okay.

I am sick of getting rid of cars after a year because of rust. I was wanted to drive the S430 for at least a few years

 

[Musikmann]

I know what you mean about your former E430. I don't have any rust on my 2001 E320 but since I've owned it (5 years with 53,000 when I bought it) it has never been driven on salty roads during the winters. There are a lot of owners who have rust eaten cars that live northward in the US snow belt.

Your S-Class looks great in the after photos and I think you were given a very good price compared to the body shops in my town.

 

[93SoCal400E]

Take a vacation to the SOuth?

My folks live in Buffalo and up there they use LOTS of salt.

I live in SoCal and every time I go visit them I am amazed when I see all of the <10 year old cars with gaping holes in them. I have tried to fix things on my Dad's 2003 Camry but many things are corroded together. Lots of rusty brake & exhaust issues. I open the hood and am amazed by the filth and corrosion from rain & snow residue. Road grime mixed with rust.

When I first moved here I had a buddy with a 1970 Ford pickup. I was helping him work on it and climbed underneath, bare metal showing...STILL SHINT STEEL. I would drive down the road and think "Wow, that 1962 Chevy has been perfectly restored"...."check out that fixed up 1973 450SLC"

I finally realized that the cars had not been restored. They had just never disintegrated to begin with.

For someone looking at 5-10 year old cars (or older) I would recommend flying somewhere DRY (SoCal to Utah to Arizona) and enjoying a week at a hotel and find a car here. Then an enjoyable drive back north.

A 10 year old car here will literally have NO rust anywhere. I had a '93 W124 and even exposed metal on exterior would not rust.

It is not just that the body will have a 10 year jump on a northern car, all of the mechanics will as well. Engine & transmission will be cleaner, far fewer bolts will be rusted tight and then end up with rounded heads due to corrosion. All of the exterior electrical connections will be far less likely to have corrosion or ground issues. In short, every system on the car will be in much newer shape. The only exception is sun damage to the paint and interior.

My '93 had spent most of it's life in a garage so had neither.

Anyhow, long rant. But I seriously can not over emphasize that cars last infinitely longer here. If it takes a car 5-10 years in salt to show exterior rust, you basically only start the clock the first time you drive on salted roads.

Florida may be a better place to vacation but they do have humidity, rain, and salt from Ocean. So they will have mild corrosion, but still nothing like immersion in a salt bath.

 

[tony1963]

I would not spend $0.50 on fixing the rust. It is all over the car and you're just seeing the tip of the iceberg.

Dump that dog and buy a clean one from down south.

 

[crunk04gtp]

The torrential rains are a bigger worry, SoCal. You see rust in trunks if the rear window seal goes bad. But as long as a car is moderately kept up we don't really see much rust. But I will say I went to a J/Y out in Vegas and was amazed at how uniformly rust free every car on the yard was.

 

[SChalmers]

I would not spend $0.50 on fixing the rust. It is all over the car and you're just seeing the tip of the iceberg.

Dump that dog and buy a clean one from down south.

I am really considering doing that. I am also thinking of going newer 2003 at least
I am thinking of running it through an auction here these seem to fetch a good buck at auction(public)

 

[SChalmers]

The torrential rains are a bigger worry, SoCal. You see rust in trunks if the rear window seal goes bad. But as long as a car is moderately kept up we don't really see much rust. But I will say I went to a J/Y out in Vegas and was amazed at how uniformly rust free every car on the yard was.

I was looking for part and or a car in Nevada/Arizona. I lived in San Diego for years the rust down there is not even close to what we get here. A 30 year old not looked after is what a 2 year old car here that was meticulously looked after gets here.
My other option is to buy one from western Canada Alberta or BC they do not use salt in Alberta and BC rarely gets snow. The reason I would consider this is not sure how bad it is to import a car into Canada. I know we have different safety issues like daytime running lights, child car seat tie downs and other things

 

[crunk04gtp]

The reason I would consider this is not sure how bad it is to import a car into Canada.

I'd be interested to hear what you find out about this. My impression was that because the big three are essentially joint US/Canadian ventures GM/Ford/Chrysler lobbied both governments to have the same standards. I know there are international standards neither of our countries are signatories to. Not signing on to the international standards limits international competition in some segments like light trucks. For example, cars which are sold in markets other than NA all have orange turn signals but some NA only cars like my late Pontiac GP (made in Ontario) only have only red tail lamps.

 

[SChalmers]

I'd be interested to hear what you find out about this. My impression was that because the big three are essentially joint US/Canadian ventures GM/Ford/Chrysler lobbied both governments to have the same standards. I know there are international standards neither of our countries are signatories to. Not signing on to the international standards limits international competition in some segments like light trucks. For example, cars which are sold in markets other than NA all have orange turn signals but some NA only cars like my late Pontiac GP (made in Ontario) only have only red tail lamps.

Canada will not let some models into the country. I had a VW Golf that the previous owner brought up from Florida. They had to have daytime running lights installed, a safety bar that runs behind the rear seat for the kids car seat and a couple other things I do not remember.
If the car is older then 15 years it is easier. I know you think that being neighbors that it would be a piece a cake. Canada is weird sometimes on what can come in and what cannot

 

[SChalmers]

Canada and Importing

Here is a basic outline
MERCEDES-BENZ

 

[crunk04gtp]

Interesting! I'm going to have to look into it more. Thanks for the information!

Sorry for threadjacking, studying questions of why countries make these sort of decisions is my line of work. Apparently I get near giddy when it intersects with my passion for cars.

 

[crunk04gtp]

If you do ultimately try to import something and find a car around Tallahassee or in South Florida (east coast of Fl, Miami-WPB) let me know. I'd be more than happy to take a look at it in person for you if my schedule permits.

 

[SChalmers]

If you do ultimately try to import something and find a car around Tallahassee or in South Florida (east coast of Fl, Miami-WPB) let me know. I'd be more than happy to take a look at it in person for you if my schedule permits.

Hey
I really appreciate the offer about taking a look at it. I am looking everywhere there is no snow, Arizona, Nevada, New Mexico, Florida and Texas
I am also considering buy a car with a bad engine or drive train and using my as a parts car

 

[crunk04gtp]

When looking in Florida, West Palm Beach, Ft Lauderdale and Jacksonville are good markets. I don't know about west coast markets like Tampa. Good deals can be found in Miami (that's where I got my 126) but that market is dog eat dog and some of those cars will be shady. Can't speak to Orlando either, but that area is not as wealthy as South Florida. Tallahassee (where I'm at now) cars will be solid, but it's also not as wealthy so you're probably not going to happen into one in this area.

I'm originally from WPB and visit family down there occasionally. I will be in South Florida from this Tuesday to Sunday so if you see anything let me know.

 

[SChalmers]

When looking in Florida, West Palm Beach, Ft Lauderdale and Jacksonville are good markets. I don't know about west coast markets like Tampa. Good deals can be found in Miami (that's where I got my 126) but that market is dog eat dog and some of those cars will be shady. Can't speak to Orlando either, but that area is not as wealthy as South Florida. Tallahassee (where I'm at now) cars will be solid, but it's also not as wealthy so you're probably not going to happen into one in this area.

I'm originally from WPB and visit family down there occasionally. I will be in South Florida from this Tuesday to Sunday so if you see anything let me know.

I am actually going to an auction tomorrow 2006 S430 4MACTIC with 55,000 km or about 33,000 miles. We will see how much this one goes for was seized by government for some reason, might go cheap but who knows

I do really appreciate the offer on helping me out/ I will tell you I would much rather buy a car with a blown engine/transmission then rust. At least once you replace/rebuild it is not going to keep coming back. Rust is like a bad cheesy horror movie just keeps returning