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· Registered
1987 560SL
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Sorry folks but I have searched until my eyes are square, I have ordered loads of seals and have the part #'s but for the life of me can't find a part number for the two rubber seals that are actually glued to the inside of the soft top over the two side windows. They seal between canvas top and metal top frame, mine are rotten but my top is still good. Any ideas om part #s. Thanks
 

· Registered
1987 300SL
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2,533 Posts
I believe the numbers are A1077780297 for the passenger side and A1077780197 for the drivers side. Pelican Parts have them in stock, genuine and US$36 each
But double check the part numbers, MB charts are a little unreliable at times
 

· Registered
1987 560SL
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134 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I believe the numbers are A1077780297 for the passenger side and A1077780197 for the drivers side. Pelican Parts have them in stock, genuine and US$36 each
But double check the part numbers, MB charts are a little unreliable at times
Thanks I will check.
 

· Premium Member
'72 350SL, '85 300D, '98 E320, '19 Subaru Outback (sold '14 GLK250)
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14,175 Posts
I believe the numbers are A1077780297 for the passenger side and A1077780197 for the drivers side. Pelican Parts have them in stock, genuine and US$36 each
But double check the part numbers, MB charts are a little unreliable at times
Looks correct part. I know I bought those once. Maybe they came with my new top??
 

· Premium Member
'72 350SL, '85 300D, '98 E320, '19 Subaru Outback (sold '14 GLK250)
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14,175 Posts
What at the seals glued to the top bar with?
Assume you are referring to the wind seals?

I don't remember exactly what I used, but what I was doing, was gluing rubber to metal. Most contact cements will do that. But what I had at the time, may have been this one: https://www.3mcanada.ca/3M/en_CA/p/d/v000161672/

Some here adhered the wind seals to the canvas top itself. There were reports of those coming off. And making top more difficult to store. I chose to glue the seal to the metal frame which required cutting it at the joints.

By coincidence, I happened to look at those seals a week or so ago. They are still in place and working fine. They have been there since 2009.
 

· Registered
1988 560SL, TRQ
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305 Posts
Assume you are referring to the wind seals?

I don't remember exactly what I used, but what I was doing, was gluing rubber to metal. Most contact cements will do that. But what I had at the time, may have been this one: https://www.3mcanada.ca/3M/en_CA/p/d/v000161672/

Some here adhered the wind seals to the canvas top itself. There were reports of those coming off. And making top more difficult to store. I chose to glue the seal to the metal frame which required cutting it at the joints.

By coincidence, I happened to look at those seals a week or so ago. They are still in place and working fine. They have been there since 2009.
Assume you are referring to the wind seals?

I don't remember exactly what I used, but what I was doing, was gluing rubber to metal. Most contact cements will do that. But what I had at the time, may have been this one: https://www.3mcanada.ca/3M/en_CA/p/d/v000161672/

Some here adhered the wind seals to the canvas top itself. There were reports of those coming off. And making top more difficult to store. I chose to glue the seal to the metal frame which required cutting it at the joints.

By coincidence, I happened to look at those seals a week or so ago. They are still in place and working fine. They have been there since 2009.
Thanks. Yes I'll be attaching to the metal frame.
 

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'72 350SL, '85 300D, '98 E320, '19 Subaru Outback (sold '14 GLK250)
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14,175 Posts
3m 1357 adhesive.

The OEM method is to glue to the canvas....which is what I did.

It, too, is doing well.

OEM method? I only have the FSM, and must have missed that part ;) If it is there. I do see pictures where the seal appears to be split above the windows, but they are not clear or explained. Here is the FSM section for those who are interested:


I chose my own method for those wind seals, and it worked well for me. But I am done with soft top replacements!
 

· Outstanding Contributor , Bob's Your Uncle!
83 280 SL- 5 speed-The PIG
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Considering I HAD an OEM top and followed all top replacement instructions....pretty sure I put it where it was originally intended to go.

Your method worked for you.

Then good for you.
 

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'72 350SL, '85 300D, '98 E320, '19 Subaru Outback (sold '14 GLK250)
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Thanks to this thread I found that I was missing these seals. Now that I have the parts in hand, any advice on installing these without removing the top?
As posted earlier, I glued mine to the metal frames. That was 12+ years ago. Still good. I would do same again, but some may not agree with this method :)
 

· Registered
1987 560sl
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As posted earlier, I glued mine to the metal frames. That was 12+ years ago. Still good. I would do same again, but some may not agree with this method :)
I think that's the method I'm going to try. At the moment struggling to see how I can get access without releasing the cable and undoing some of the canvas (which I don't want to do since I have no idea how to put it back together :) ) Any tips or was the canvas already off when you glued yours in?
 

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'72 350SL, '85 300D, '98 E320, '19 Subaru Outback (sold '14 GLK250)
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I think that's the method I'm going to try. At the moment struggling to see how I can get access without releasing the cable and undoing some of the canvas (which I don't want to do since I have no idea how to put it back together :) ) Any tips or was the canvas already off when you glued yours in?
I did as part of top installation. I will have a look at it tomorrow. I can see how it might be a problem retrofitting.
 

· Registered
1983 380SL, ivory/dk brown, 46k miles, dual roller timing chain. 1986 560SL, red/white, 190K mile.
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9,230 Posts
The Convertible Top DVD had this as the very last step in the installation:

Rectangle Font Screenshot Parallel Number

Hand Gesture Wood Finger Hardwood

Gesture Finger Wood Window Vehicle door

Rectangle Font Parallel Number Screenshot
 

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'72 350SL, '85 300D, '98 E320, '19 Subaru Outback (sold '14 GLK250)
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14,175 Posts
I did as part of top installation. I will have a look at it tomorrow. I can see how it might be a problem retrofitting.
I had a look at my top today, just to refresh myself.

It looks like the seals, using my method, could be installed with top in place. Only tight spot is at very front. It might be best to loosen the screw there so as to make a little more room to slide the seal in. Using an adhesive that doesn't stick immediately would help. I noticed that I had also cut the seal back a little at the front, but that does not leave an opening.

Here are some pictures. The last one shows how a seal would have to bend when folding a top compared with staying straight when attached to the frames.

Not saying this is this is the right way to do this. Just reporting what I did :)

Front end - Not sure,but I think seal had that step cut out of it, perhaps because the gap narrows?
Sleeve Gesture Wood Bumper Automotive exterior


Seals at hinge - obviously why it needs to be cut!
Automotive tire Automotive design Rim Automotive exterior Automotive wheel system


Seal at rear end
Hood Automotive exterior Automotive tire Automotive design Carbon


Top partly folded.
Motor vehicle Automotive design Automotive exterior Tints and shades Vehicle door
 

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