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Discussion Starter #21
Thanks so much for getting back glenmore!
Yeah from all that I have read so far, I will move the compressor and/or the alternator only if I need to. Your 2000 C280 is a M112 like my 1999 C280 so let's see how everything works out..
I do have both the stubby box and stubby ratcheting box wrenches. I also have the Blaster penetrating oil spray if needed and planning on getting this offset wrench - https://www.ebay.com/i/123718137161?chn=ps. Do you think a 3/8th extension can be used from below to drive the offset wrench on the top bolts of both the mounts?
You all have been very helpful on this board, so a huge thanks to all!
 

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That looks like a decent tool and should come in handy but you should be able to do it with just the stubby combo wrench and pry bar. Looks like you would use a 3/8" extension and breaker bar from below.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Thanks guys,
I will get back if I run into problems while doing the job and for sure after I get it done. One thing I will try to get insight on (hopefully!) is why WIS proc is telling us to undo some drag link arms or is it some misprint...
Great weekend guys!
 

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Discussion Starter #24 (Edited)
Hi Folks!
Replaced the Engine and trans mounts a week ago and all the vibration is gone.

The only vibration (if its vibration) that I now feel is in neutral or parking gear when the rpm goes up to right around 750, where as in brake mode while in reverse or drive gear it is right around 550 and there is no vibration at all. I'll keep a watch and start a new thread for it. My next project for this car is replacing the AC compressor for which I will start a new thread after doing some research.

Anyway let me share with you how the mounts were replaced in my car -
1) Got hold of the MB replacement instruction for my car. Made sure I understood every word in the one-page instruction set plus some related instructions.
2) Asked for help on this wonderful forum where as you can see so many jumped in to help and encourage me.
3) Inspected the car from the top and bottom - several times until everything made sense to me.
4) Decided not to mess with the drag link per MB instruction, as that may entail additional cost of alignment at the shop. Instead will try wiggling the mounts out and in first and if that doesn't work, will move the AC compressor and/or the alternator. Also decided 2 men best for the job.
5) Got the 16mm Mercedes offset wrench (like El Paso Tools on ebay), 3/8th long and short ratchet extensions, a low profile 16mm or 5/8" hex socket head set with 3/8th drive (like OEM Tools), a thin profile 3/8th ratchet driver (like Harbor Freight 67993) for the MM top bolts. Wrench and sockets as needed for bottom bolts, trans mount bolts, the AC compressor, alternator, ground wire nuts, battery, washer reservoir, fan belt tensioner, protective glasses, plenty of rags and plastic containers to catch the hydraulic oil if it spills. Of course floor jack, jack stands and chocks.
6) Parts - got Mercedes genuine online from www.mercedesbenzpartscenter.com but others can be cheaper sometimes like www.mbpartsworld.com. Don't forget to check autohausaz and others too, you never know who's running a special! Genuine is made by BOGE and very good OEM is made by Lemforder. Both are owned by ZF Auto. My old ones don't have any manuf marking, just Merc Star and part number as part of the rubber mold. The old trans mount has no markings, the new one also does not have any manuf marking just part # and Made In India label. Depending on the condition of your car, you may want to keep new nuts and bolts with you just in case. Getting it from the dealership is very expensive about $60, so I went to the dealership with calipers, measured all of em, took pics especially the manuf symbol on em and spent days trying to get exact match from places like Metric & Multistandard, Fastenal, local manufs. I couldn't find a match for the lower bolts. However, I ended up not needing any, my original bolts were all like new. So I returned all of 'em after the job.
7) Jacked up the car. Did the ds first. Unbolted and got the washer reservoir out of the way. Loosened the top bolt first with the Mercedes 16mm offset tool and ratchet extension from the top. Two 1" turns is all it takes, then you can unscrew with your fingers. Then raised the engine and unbolted the bottom bolt. Noticed hydraulic fluid, so wrapped it in a rag. When wiggling out failed, unbolted and moved AC compressor and ground wire, which allowed the mount to be brought more to the front and then was picked up from the top by the other guy. The new one went in the same way but the engine had to be raised a bit more. Hand tightened the bolt below, lowered the engine slightly, made sure the notch and the tooth were in line and dropped the engine slowly all the way. Hand tightened the top bolt from the top, then used the low profile 16mm socket head with thin profile 3/8th driver from below to approximate the 55Nm torque. This side took 2 hrs and I drove it about 20 miles to see if it made any difference but no difference.
8) Next day, we did the ps. Jacked up the car again and took off the air filter box and attached connectors. Saw no space to position the ratchet extension. So disconnected battery -ve and unbolted the two bolts on the alternator, top and bottom, eased it out of the hold and moved it to the front. This allowed me to angle my drive extension to loosen the top bolt in two short sweeps and then unscrewed it by hand. I noticed the hydraulic fluid on this. Raised the engine, loosened the bottom bolt, unscrewed it, and immediately wrapped it in a rag. This one came out easily. The new one went in with the same way, followed the same process as for the ds, and then bolted back the alternator. BTW, moving the alternator and putting it back on was no problem at all on my car. It was easier and a lot quicker than the AC compressor. This side took 1 hr.
9) Immediately after this, we did the trans mount. The one on the car was still in perfect condition, but I replaced it with the new one. This one was quick and easy and took about 15 minutes.
10) Last, we cleaned up and reconnected the battery, reset the radio code and normalized the power windows and sunroof and that was the end. Took it for a spin and that's when noticed the immediate huge improvement. I recommend anybody experiencing vibration, do the mount test and check if the mounts are leaking hydraulic fluid and replace the mounts asap. Just to let you know, my old mounts failed the test, were leaking, but still are in great shape! In terms of difficulty, I would rate it 2.5 out of 10 if at all and not to much fiddling around, at least not in my 99 C280.
Thanks a lot guys!
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Hi glenmore,

talking about tools - its amazing how inexpensively you can get what you need with awesome deals running all the time! For this job, I ended up buying the Harbor Freight slim prof ratchet and the Baum Tools offset wrench. Had everything else and borrowed the 3/8th long extension.
I am repairing the power seat relay now and saw you in that thread, so will post more about it there. After that -
1) rr the AC Compressor,
2) repair the sagging headliner or best rr if I can get hold of a new one from Mercedes around $299,
3) what's making the rubbing noise on the ps front tire in reverse gear when wheel is turned all the way to the left and sometimes when I am going back straight,
4) intermittent very low clicking noise on the ps when I am at a stop,
5) my radio that goes high on its own, changes station when I try to change volume and all kind of random stuff,
6) how to get my pickup back to when my car was newer,
7) and who knows what else may show up :)

Cheers!
 

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Inexpensive tools from Harbor Freight have made many expensive repairs possible. They are not the greatest tools but are just fine for the average shade tree mechanic.

Never tried to rebuild a compressor but be sure to check out what a good rebuild would cost before embarking on that one!

Of the three W202s in the family, I've had the shop do one liner ($500, IIRC), another is a goner but held on with metal clips and the 3rd is OK. This is a big job and I took it to a specialty shop that does them all the time. Remember that the A, B and C pillars as well as the sunroof have to be done too. Whatever you do, try not to damage the roof liner, i.e. stick pins into it, because if you then have a shop do it, the liner won't ever look flat and smooth.

The clicking is engine noise when you are at a stop? I would take off fan belt and check/spin all pulleys.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Yes, Harbor Freight tools are not always quality tools...

I had bought the OE Denso AC compressor way back for a great price. Its the exact same factory original model that's in my car now. The clutch on it went bad so I am sure it can be used with a new clutch.

So the headliner that you got done for $500 - did you have them put back the original cloth that had sagged or did they put new material on the existing board or did you buy a new Mercedes headliner? Do you remember how long they took?

The clicking noise was from the power seat relay itself.
 

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They used all new material on the ceiling, sunroof and pillars. OEM Mercedes material is cost prohibitive and takes a long time to get. They reused all parts and just recovered them. I got the car to the shop the night before so they could start first thing in the morning and they were finished by the end of the day.
 

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Discussion Starter #32

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Discussion Starter #34
Thanks gilmore!
I guess the new liner material is probably a very close color match but the texture is quite different, right? How was the end result though, just like as in a new car or again close??
 

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I was just trying to tape up the liner on my daughter's 2000 C280 with no sucess. Car is black with grey interior. Liner is a speckled light grey vinyl. The replaced liner on my other daughter's 1999 C280 is the fuzzy stuff. Car is white with tan interior. There is probably only 2 choices, light tan or light grey. The results are just like a new car.

Don't laugh but what I've done with the black car to tide us over until we can get the new liner is to prop up the old liner with thin wood slats from some old blinds. They are jammed into the trim and the upward bow keeps the liner up so you can at least see out the rear window.
 
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