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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys,
I am planning to do this DIY at my house. So wanted to run by the following if someone has done it on a 99 C280 also -
1) Following the WIS instructions for 99 C280 (Model202.029) V6-2.8L (Engine 112.920) - good?
2) Don't have an engine lift so will use a jack and 2x4 wood to raise/lower engine - is it okay to put the wood under the oil pan or is there a better location from under something else?
3) Is it absolutely necessary to A) unbolt the steering damper at the drag link and then B) detach the drag link from the Pitman and the Idler arms?
4) Are the top bolts of both the mounts unscrewed and screwed back on all from the bottom of the car? what is the tool that will work best for this part - 'cause this seems to be the most challenging part of the DIY.
5) Will the old mounts come out and the new mounts go in, both from the bottom?
6) Right after, I will also be replacing the rear mount but that looks much easier than the two engine mounts.
Thanks much in advance for any tips/advice/heads up from someone who has done it on the same car - will definitely boost my first time confidence :)
Thank you!
 

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Hi guys,
I am planning to do this DIY at my house. So wanted to run by the following if someone has done it on a 99 C280 also -
1) Following the WIS instructions for 99 C280 (Model202.029) V6-2.8L (Engine 112.920) - good?
2) Don't have an engine lift so will use a jack and 2x4 wood to raise/lower engine - is it okay to put the wood under the oil pan or is there a better location from under something else?
3) Is it absolutely necessary to A) unbolt the steering damper at the drag link and then B) detach the drag link from the Pitman and the Idler arms?
4) Are the top bolts of both the mounts unscrewed and screwed back on all from the bottom of the car? what is the tool that will work best for this part - 'cause this seems to be the most challenging part of the DIY.
5) Will the old mounts come out and the new mounts go in, both from the bottom?
6) Right after, I will also be replacing the rear mount but that looks much easier than the two engine mounts.
Thanks much in advance for any tips/advice/heads up from someone who has done it on the same car - will definitely boost my first time confidence :)
Thank you!
Welcome sgoesbwo,

Yes to everything except for (3) - not necessary. Turn the steering wheel to the right (ps).
Note: The ps motor mount has a silicon heat shield that needs to be used. DS does not need one.
For (4), top bolt removed from topside, bottom end nut removed from bottomside.

Here's a DIY video that's self-explanatory.

Keep us posted on your DIY project here. :)

 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks khomer2,
I'll keep your suggestions in mind and will definitely post back what it took to get it done.
The video is on a M111 engine whereas mine is M112 where doing anything from the top doesn't look possible??!!
While I realize procedures can overlap between several models/engines, did you actually do this yourself on a 99 c280?
best regards!
 

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Thanks khomer2,
I'll keep your suggestions in mind and will definitely post back what it took to get it done.
The video is on a M111 engine whereas mine is M112 where doing anything from the top doesn't look possible??!!
While I realize procedures can overlap between several models/engines, did you actually do this yourself on a 99 c280?
best regards!
Ive only worked on a c230K. Anytime I purchase a used car, I check to see which models are DIY friendly. :)

Here's another link that should assist.

Try using the search engine, you'd be surprised the wealth of knowledge other members have posted here. :thumbsup:
Read, read, read.... dont stop. :grin
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thank you khomer2,
Yes, I had seen and bookmarked that link...the feedback from Hookster and blackiron56 are pretty useful. You're right, reading as much as you can does help clear a lot of confusion as a novice...it's 90% planning and 10% execution :)
A question though if you or someone can answer -
WIS instructions don't include moving the AC compressor or alternator but does instruct to A) unbolt the steering damper at the drag link and then B) detach the drag link from the Pitman and the Idler arms.
Which is simpler? Cause I am thinking following WIS method could potentially call for alignment check, which will have to be done at a shop at additional cost...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hi duh_vinci,
Thanks much for the video link! I had actually seen and bookmarked it but had ignored it with the incorrect assumption its not for my car. When I matched its engine information you provided in WIS, I was pleasantly surprised to see the RR docs for the two cars are the same. So I watched the video again and this time it was as if I was looking at my engine :) Amazing how I was lost in the sea of information during my research! Thank you, now I think I can go work on my car!
ps,
1) if its of any significance (which I will find out once I get on it), I read somewhere someone is using a stubby ratcheting 5/8 or 16mm wrench for the top bolt of the mounts. Again someone wrote he cut off his regular wrench to make it stubby!
2) I had someone try the top bolt before I got into all this research, pretty strong guy but he was unable to unscrew the ds top bolt from the bottom. The car was on stands and he hadn't loosened the bottom bolt yet and the engine wasn't yet resting on wood and jack. Someone did write his DS top side bolt was pretty hard but he eventually unscrewed it! Maybe we should use some penetrating oil?
 

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sgoesbwo,

As I said before, Ive havent removed MM on a c280 m112 before, but after reviewing duh_vinci's video post, it looks like a pretty straightforward job, only tiresome to have to move the compressor to access what you need to access (MBs engineers' way of saying FU and pay us to do the job...) :devil

And yes, use penetrating oil spray. Makes life easier. Brute strength to loosen a 'hard to access' nut?? AND then have it snap on you after all that preparation work??
been there, done that, No thanks.
 

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https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-Benz-Offset-16mm-Engine-Motor-Mount-Wrench/254173677609?hash=item3b2dee8829:g:FzYAAOSwf-VWXfag

Use this, this helps a lot.

There is no need to disconnect anything related to steering or linking or whathaveyou.

Take out the 3 bolts holding on the AC compressor to the block, shove the compressor forward, and you have enough room to take out the MM on the driver side.

Passenger side is easy, just need to play tetris as you maneuver the old and new one through the stuff blocking the way.
 

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Just my $0.02, when I did my motor mounts, I did remove the alternator, to me, removing those 2 bolts (extra 10 minutes total time) made the work around so much easier on the passenger side!

Regards,
D
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Hi glenmore & Deplore,
Thanks so much for your response guys!
I am attaching a document that's based on WIS instructions but also regressed with glenmore's feedback and thoughts from his experience and some of my DIY friendly findings.
It involves no moving of alternator or compressor. As glenmore emphasized - use jack stands and unlock wheel before disconnecting battery to enable turning wheels left or right - is perhaps a very important aspect of this methodology.
Anyway, let's what the experts and the experienced have to say. I will look forward to it!
Thank you all!
 

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You're reading far too much into this job. It is not a difficult job, and that PDF calls for far too much work when you can just simply move the AC compressor a few inch forward and save yourself all the headaches.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Hi Deplore,
Thanks so much for your feedback on my document, I really appreciate it!
Yeah, I actually will have to unbolt the compressor if I can't find a way to unbolt the top bolt on the mount.
I see you are a veteran...dare I ask you if you did this on a 98-2000 C280 or which model?
best regards
 

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All of them. From 1996 C280 with the M104 up to C43 AMG.

List any Mercedes model and I probably have put a wrench to it at some point in the past few years....late models notwithstanding.

Just about every sedan MB requires me to move the AC compressor out to make room...they keep the AC compressor in the same location throughout the years (with few exceptions). The SUV's require dropping the front differential to get to driver side, the 4matics require either dropping the subframe by 2-3" or disconnecting the exhaust in addition to the compressor removal.

You can unbolt the top bolt on the MM with that tool or with regular wrench and then using a large pry bar for leverage. Just about the only cars I remember that actually requires the special tools were the V12 variants, most notably the M275 with twin turbos. All others could be done with regular wrench, but that tool I mentioned above will make your life 1000x easier. That tool is only to break it loose, then you can just unscrew with your fingers. You can likewise tighten it after the job done.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
ok Deplore, two quick questions even if they sound thick -

1) Did you need to move the compressor just to roll out and in the DS mount or even before to be able to loosen the top bolt of the mount?
2) Using the offset wrench, you recommend, did you use it from the top or bottom of the engine? Did you use multiple extensions in the tool's 3/8th drive?

Thank you immensely for your help!
 

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1. Yes, the AC compressor being moved out of the way is solely to move the MM in and out. It is not to loosen or tighten the bolt on the top.

2. I did it from the top, and I did use multiple extensions. Again, the point is to just break it loose, not use it to keep loosening it. Once you break it loose, then it's loose and can be unscrewed by fingers. You don't need a lot of room -- just 1-2" of ratcheting travel is all you need.
 
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