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2011 GLK350,1998E300D, 2004SL500, 2006CLS500,2006ML500,2006R500, 2002 S55AMG
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Fellas:
The 95 420 is out of storage and acting like Sybil...I started her up today. She has been home from being stored over a year, and radio-less(frown)..
Anyway she stared up perfectly when cold, but after running her for 3 miles and returning home, she stumbled upon entering the driveway. When I backed her into the garage, she smelled terrible. The worst rotten egg smell ever. Then I tried to start her once but she turned over but didnt start. I checked the oil and antifreeze, both looked normal. I just changed the oil when I got her out of storage. She has less than 75k on the odometer.
 

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What was your exact/specific process for removing it from storage before starting it up?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
What was your exact/specific process for removing it from storage before starting it up?
Greg:
I pulled the battery and left her in storage. When I picked the car up, i inspected my missing radio, sulked, had a heinekin and took her to my house.
Upon starting her she runs fine, but after heating up, the car stumbled a bit, the egg smell came and it didnt start up. I only turned the kek over for one attempt though. Once the car cooled down for a few hours it started up like normal. I didnt do anything like fuel stabilizer when I parked the car. The temp guage was at the normal temp while i ran it briefly.
 

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SL55, 300SE, GL450, Daytona 955i
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start it, let it idle for 15-30 min, then try driving it in "break in" fashion, it should clean itself like that... the car probably has all kinds of dust, dirt, and rust powder, if no where, atleast inside the exhaust pipe, and its burning it off...

if the symptoms presist there after, then you can look into the cause...
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Usually that rotten egg smell indicates a catalytic converter that has died.
NZ:
I have a question for you. I was kind of thinking that it was related to a converter, so how does the converter being bad cause the car to act up when the car is at operating temp. I had a similar problem on another car many moons ago, but never went into detail. Does the clogging of the exhaust system with the bad converter trigger the car to start running bad?

The car starts up great and runs fine till reaching temp, then she starts going into stumbling mode, and wont start again till cooled? How does the system reconize that the vehicle is at normal temp and no longer act up?
 

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1993 300SEL (Sold) 2007 X5
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NZ:
I have a question for you. I was kind of thinking that it was related to a converter, so how does the converter being bad cause the car to act up when the car is at operating temp. I had a similar problem on another car many moons ago, but never went into detail. Does the clogging of the exhaust system with the bad converter trigger the car to start running bad?

The car starts up great and runs fine till reaching temp, then she starts going into stumbling mode, and wont start again till cooled? How does the system reconize that the vehicle is at normal temp and no longer act up?
I'm not 100% but what I think it is, is that there is an O2 sensor just past the cats in the exhaust system. Because the cat(s) could be bad it might be sending the wrong signals to the car to compensate. Either that or you have more than one problem.
 

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1995 S500
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my wire harness was bad and i did not replace quick enough....all kind of bad things, unburned fuel, o2 senser going crazy, and above all cats being soaked by un burned carbons...mine are bad and smell...performance has been bad since....cats on these cars are all tied to the main ecu via sensors....for me...new cats....
 

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Does the car overheat? When idling from cold, after reaching the normal temperature, does it keep on idling normally or start failing? If your drive the car with a cold engine, does it runs fine? I used to have all these problems, the cause was one cat clogged, after replacing it everything went smooth. (I have fixed an ETA and wiring, the original cause). The car does not start if over temperature is detected. Check the cats, they behave in a very mysterious ways...
Good Luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Fellas:
Look what another lister posted and these are the exact symptoms I am havong. I will post the info on what he stated his was doing..

300CE, only starts when cold, starts running rough and dies out when it gets warm
300 CE engine starts running rough and dies out when it gets warm
(approx after 20 mins) and won't re-start until it has been left for hours (i guess cooled down).


History to the problem:

1. Air-conditioning stopped working (rest of car running fine)

2. Airco re-filled and some pipes replaced by a garage.

3. after two days, engine started cutting out mysteriously whilst driving.

Tests / Checks done so far:

1. Car starts fine when cold, runs rough when the accelerator is pressed. but fine at high revs.

1. OVP relay (fuse is OK)

2. Fuel pump charges / energizes fine when ignition turned on

3. good spark at the plugs

4. Fuel pressure fine and coming through clean to the metering head.

5. Battery and alternator charging rate runs fine.

6. When running have switch all electrics on to try and bing it down that way, still runs fine (if still cold)
 

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Scotta I have the same problem as you and also car smokes. I replaced the cats and 02's. The oil is black (just changed some months ago and black already), plan on changing oil again and then will proceed to do the harness change. Also changed the MAF's. I'll soon have this car back in running condition as the guy I got it from didn't do a DAMN thing to keep it in good condition. Oh well I live and I learned.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I am pretty sure that my converters are bad because of that smell that I am getting. Like some of you stated it could be other issues as well. Below is what he said worked in his case...


Thank you to everyone who gave intput to the problem.
The original starting when warm problem has been solved, all that was replaced was the distributor cap and plugs,
very strange this resolved the problem for what looked to be the classic (control unit based) Sudden stall syndrome.

For information, the requested test results were:

1. CPS ohms 908 at 80c, 8.8v output from ECU, CPS voltage (Cold and warm) 0.3 – 0.4v when cranked.

2. Battery voltage: 12.3 v (not running), 13.0v (running all electrics on), 14.1v (just engine running)

3. OVPR (with ignition only on) – PINs: 87e – 11.8v, 30 – 11.9v, 15 – 11.8v, 31 – 0v, Remaining 87n PINS: 11.7v

Regards

Cbrushton
 

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Maybe its not a dead cat converter...maybe its a dead CAT inside your engine.....do you still have all of your pets accounted for? It was a harmeless joke but that happened to a friend of mine once where his cat crawled some where he wasnt suppose to and got stuck in the engine compartment and you can guess what happened next...
 

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SL55, 300SE, GL450, Daytona 955i
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Guys, anyone with these symptoms, please make sure the tachometer is registering RPM when cranking, if it doesnt, it could be a bad CPS (Crank Position Sensor)

Better yet, if you have a scanner, check the live data while cranking, and make sure you register any rpm while the engine is turning.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
sadly during my cavs game I follow up with wow the S420 was running in the garage for 20 mins. When i depress the gas pedal i am getting white smoke from the exhaust. Whenever I rev up the rpms I am getting the white smoke. I went back to the oil and it looked fine, and the antifreeze looked good, but I noticed what looked like water dripping from the tailpipe.
 
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