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Premium Member
1972 280CE
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4,211 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Well, I'm not really a rookie, but I did just buy an 02 E55 and I'm wanting to change the oil as I suspect that the dealer put dyno 5w30.

I live in Texas and have a number of older MB's. The oldest being a 69 300SEL 6.3 and the newest until now was a 1997 W210 E420.

Aside from the E420, all of my cars get either Castrol GTX 20W50 or Shell Rotella 15W40 (Wally world was selling 2.5 gallon jugs for $12 once and I loaded up my trunk with as many jugs that I could).

As for the E420, ever since I bought it in 2004, I've been using Mobile1 15W40 up until last year when I switched to Eneos 0W50, I'm on my second oil change at 10k intervals and I have to say that the E420 really loves the Eneos 0W50. The engine sounds quite and even after 10K, the oil still looked good.

The E420 has 185k miles now (I bought it at 70k) and the E55 has 107k miles. I'm wondering if anyone ha has experience with using thicker oil like a 15W50 or 0W50 in their higher mileage cars.

It seems like a sensible thing to do with my older higher mileage engines, but as I'm not familiar with this particular car, I'm interested in hearing your opinions.
 

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2000 W210 E55 AMG, Silver/Black - Stock
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611 Posts
Do not use higher vis or dyno-juice. Use 0W-40 Mobile 1. And get the trans fluid flushed and filter changed with synth. I also did the rear axle lube with Mobil 1 gear lube while I was at it.
 

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1997 S420, 2000 E55
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255 Posts
So far, I have found the best advice is to always follow that of the MB engineers. +1 of 0W40 M1.
 

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2006 E320 CDI
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386 Posts
If you are going to change the rear axle fluid make sure you use the MB approved lub. The Mobil 1 75W90 is not an approved fluid for the car and with the torque that the E55 has may end up in a rear axle problem.

Here it is from their recommended fluids list: MB Hypoid Gear Oil (85W-90)
MB Part No. A001 989 17 03 10

Mobil 1 0W40 is what MB recommends for the AMG engines. It is good and readily available at a reasonable price ($6-$8 dollars).
 

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Premium Member
1972 280CE
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4,211 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
If you are going to change the rear axle fluid make sure you use the MB approved lub. The Mobil 1 75W90 is not an approved fluid for the car and with the torque that the E55 has may end up in a rear axle problem.
Thanks, I assumed that the E55 would have an LSD and that special gear oil was required.

Al,
Another mercedes! You are going to love the E55 AMG. I use Mobil 1 0W40 as well.
Yes sir! After bringing this home, my girlfriend accused me of spending less time deciding on a car then she spends deciding on shoes. Which gives me a perfect excuse to not go shopping with her :)

Mobile 0W40 it is.
 

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Premium Member
1989 560sec 6.0L AMG & Renntech
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2,355 Posts
Motul 8100 5w40 for me. I use that in any MB that recommends Mobil 0w40. Mobil just isn't that great IMO.
 

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2000 E55 / 2003 G500 / 2011 BMW M3
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776 Posts
My 2000 E55 just hit 80k and I have always used Mobil1 but this time I changed from 0-40 to their 10-40 "high mileage" formula. Wallmart sells it cheepest I've found.

Living in California I am not concerned about changing to the slightly higher range, and the cars runs tremendously (as always).
 

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1997 S420, 2000 E55
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255 Posts
MB Fahrer - Can you elaborate on why you do not think M1 is that high of a quality? You are a well respected source of information so I would love to hear what you think.

I have considered switching from M1 to either Motul, Amsoil, or Royal Purple but have never pulled the trigger just because I have never had an issue with M1 in any of my past benz's. My E55 is going to be a keeper until either me or the car croaks so I am very interested in using a top notch oil.

Thanks in advance.
 

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E320/E250 Bluetec Ford F350 6.7l
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36,717 Posts
Mobil 1 generate higher iron wear out than other oils. I found the site with M1 engineer answering the question and he choose not to answer this one.
I did some testing on my diesels and M1 ESP formula M did not come too good. Rotella especially T6 work the best on diesels.
 

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1997 S420, 2000 E55
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255 Posts
Where is there any iron in the M113 engine? Could be off on this one, but I dont recall any anywhere. Also, what did your analysis consist of?
 

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Premium Member
1989 560sec 6.0L AMG & Renntech
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2,355 Posts
Thanks all, i'm going with the motul 8100 x-cess 5w40 because worldpac has it in a 5 gallon jug, and walmart only stocks M1 0w40 in quart bottles.
Good choice. It's a fantastic oil.
 

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Premium Member
1989 560sec 6.0L AMG & Renntech
Joined
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2,355 Posts
MB Fahrer - Can you elaborate on why you do not think M1 is that high of a quality? You are a well respected source of information so I would love to hear what you think.

I have considered switching from M1 to either Motul, Amsoil, or Royal Purple but have never pulled the trigger just because I have never had an issue with M1 in any of my past benz's. My E55 is going to be a keeper until either me or the car croaks so I am very interested in using a top notch oil.

Thanks in advance.
Sorry it took me so long to get back to you; had a busy week.

In my experience, Mobil oils tend to lose some of their viscosity at higher operating temperatures--which leads to [very] slightly increased engine wear. Mobil oils also tend to break down sooner under heavy usage. I used to be an avid Mobil supporter. I used their products in all of my MB and even my BMW race car. E36 BMW lifters are somewhat finicky with oil. The Mobil oil (5w40) induced the E36 ticking, which I rarely experience with Motul 8100 (only occurs on track days in the 32-35C range). As for my experience with Mobil products in street cars.... Both of my M120's (and all of my mothers various W140s) used to get mobil, but the oil was aging/breaking down at a premature time. I would only get about 1000-1500 miles before I deemed the oil unstable. I must mention, that I do have a lead foot, but most of my cars are performance oriented. That leads me to believe that there is no reason that the oil should be an opaque and gritty black after such short time frame. Unfortunately, I haven't been analyzing oil until recently, so I do not have facts to back up what I have just said. What I will do, though, is get the Motul 8100 analyzed from my E55. It now has 5500km's on it. I will probably change it this weekend, which means I'll have the results received in about two weeks time.

Here are some data sheets if you're that interested in comparing the specs.

Motul 8100 x-cess: http://www.motul.com/system/product_descriptions/technical_data_sheets/52/8100 X-cess 5W-40 (GB).pdf

Mobil 5w40: http://www.motul.com/system/product_descriptions/technical_data_sheets/52/8100 X-cess 5W-40 (GB).pdf

Mobil 0w40: Mobil 1 0W-40

The only question I have regarding the Motul 8100 is this: why is it 229.5 approved except for the SLR? What is so different about the SLR engine that it is not approved? Maybe one of you can help figure this out? I'll do some poking around myself.

Edit: did some searching in the SLR manual. Read that it requires Mobil 5w50 oil--due to being a FI motor. Data sheet is here: http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/NAUSENPVLMOMobil1_15W-50.aspx

Cheers,
Ricky
 

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Premium Member
1972 280CE
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4,211 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
The only question I have regarding the Motul 8100 is this: why is it 229.5 approved except for the SLR? What is so different about the SLR engine that it is not approved? Maybe one of you can help figure this out? I'll do some poking around myself.
When was it approved for 229.5? Could it be as simple as it getting approval prior to the release of the SLR?
 

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2002 AMG E55, 1997 E320
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57 Posts
Well, I'm not really a rookie, but I did just buy an 02 E55 and I'm wanting to change the oil as I suspect that the dealer put dyno 5w30.

I live in Texas and have a number of older MB's. The oldest being a 69 300SEL 6.3 and the newest until now was a 1997 W210 E420.

Aside from the E420, all of my cars get either Castrol GTX 20W50 or Shell Rotella 15W40 (Wally world was selling 2.5 gallon jugs for $12 once and I loaded up my trunk with as many jugs that I could).

As for the E420, ever since I bought it in 2004, I've been using Mobile1 15W40 up until last year when I switched to Eneos 0W50, I'm on my second oil change at 10k intervals and I have to say that the E420 really loves the Eneos 0W50. The engine sounds quite and even after 10K, the oil still looked good.

The E420 has 185k miles now (I bought it at 70k) and the E55 has 107k miles. I'm wondering if anyone ha has experience with using thicker oil like a 15W50 or 0W50 in their higher mileage cars.

It seems like a sensible thing to do with my older higher mileage engines, but as I'm not familiar with this particular car, I'm interested in hearing your opinions.
You can do your own oil testing by sending in your used oil for analysis to Blackstone Labs. I send my oil in after every oil change (5k mikes) to check on motor wear and to see if my oil has been breaking down. You may want to try this using different types oil to see if one works better then the other.:thumbsup:

I do not drive particularly hard, but I do put my foot into it during my daily commutes :D
 

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2000 E55 AMG
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85 Posts
I'm with MB Fahrer in the opinion that Mobil 1 is a pretty bad oil.

Years ago I did my own "testing" on daily driver 400HP Mustang that I built the engine from the ground up. After the initial break-in period using dino oil, I tested most popular brands synthetics.
Mobil 1 has TONS of detergents in it and, as MB-Fahrer stated, it broke down (lost viscosity) relatively quickly. After approximately 1500 miles it was done. Other things I had noticed, as the oil broke down, the operating temperature of the vehicle went up, operating oil pressure went down and worse gas mileage.
Not very impressed with it, especially at its price point.

Redline, Royal Purple and AMSoil are all excellent oils. They're fully synthetic and can resist thermal breakdown very well. Nice low operating temps, consistent oil pressure, good gas mileage, no buildup internally. Everything you'd expect from a top racing oil.
However, @ $11-12 (or more) per quart, it's somewhat cost prohibitive, especially with an 8 quart system. But if good oil is priority, I'd highly recommend them.

Pennzoil, Valvoline, Quaker State, etc. are total garbage and I wouldn't even put them in my lawn mower. I've had nothing but bad experiences with these oils (seized valves, spun bearings, etc.). These oils, by far, broke down the quickest.

The best oil (price to performance ratio) I've found is Castrol Syntec. This stuff is awesome. It costs as much as Mobil 1 yet performs leaps and bounds better. When I switched to this oil the FIRST thing I noticed was how much cooler my car ran (switched from M1). The engine revved faster. I would redline noticeably quicker (glad I had a rev limiter). The oil pressure was consistent. I also noticed that my fuel economy improved. Even after 4k miles of hard driving, this oil looked like I poured it out of the bottle.
@ ~$7.50/qt this is definitely the best buy.

Regarding the weight that's supposed to be used, I contacted AMG, since the owners manual is woefully inadequate, and they recommend 5w40 for the E55 (0w40 for cold weather).
FWIW, I'm a certified engine mechanic and have been building engines for over 22 years. The thing a lot of people don't understand about oil is that internal engine components are metered. Meaning oil passages are a certain diameter to regulate oil flow, so only certain weight oils can pass through them at the appropriate rate. Switching to a higher viscosity restricts flow to vital engine components causing undue wear and even starving parts for oil. Usually this happens in the valvetrain and produces lots of clatter and ticking. So switch weights at your own risk. If you move to a higher viscosity oil, and the engine starts to tick or clatter, it's in your best interest to switch to a lower viscosity.

Another thing to note about oil changes. The reason oil changes are recommended @ 3000 mi intervals, this is especially true with dino-oils, is as the oil heats up and, on a chemical level, interacts with various types of metals within an engine, the oil actually becomes acidic. As this acidic oil circulates inside the engine, the acid will actually eat away at seals and gaskets, so it's very important to change your oil regularly to ensure gasket and seal integrity.
 

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Premium Member
1989 560sec 6.0L AMG & Renntech
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2,355 Posts
Blackomega, very nicely written. Thank you for expanding on what I left out. :thumbsup:
 

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1997 S420, 2000 E55
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255 Posts
All excellent insight guys.

I know the Royal Purple fan-boys tout doing 10k changes with 5k filter changes.

What intervals do you observe with Motul?
 
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