[EtherNet]

Hey guys! I took the car to the shop and had my tail lights replaced and engine repairs done. After getting the car back, when pulling back on the lever and holding down, the display said ‘visit workshop’. The Mechanic replaced a bad fuse and now the display says the roof is retracting however nothing occurs. I noticed one of roof flaps was hanging down a lot! I have ordered the revised brackets but have not received them yet. Do you think this is my issue?? The mechanic says there are no codes stored. Thank you everyone.

 

[EtherNet]

A hanging flap stops the roof from (fully) retracting. Push it up and try if you hear a micro switch click. If so - the travel of the flap needs to be corrrected.

Thank you Frederick. So the roof would start to open even if one of these flaps are not in alignment? I will say that the roof worked correctly prior to me taking it to the shop other than a small catch on the (rear) windshield surroundings. I had to wrap it in carbon fiber to cover up a crack that occurred in the panel just prior to taking it in. I got out of the car to watch the roof work (knowing of the problem), and the rubber seal clipped the edge of the plastic (again) which caused it to split in two. I recommend wrapping all of your roof ‘slats’ in carbon fiber as it does look great. We upgraded the car to 2012 Amg tail lights. All I have is knowledge of the bad roof flap brackets. I ordered the revised by Mercedes part. The mechanic doesn’t know the system well enough. My guess is that the flap is so badly out of alignment that the roof will not operate even at all. And I had to instruct him how to operate the switch for the roof. Perhaps it will just work for me when I return to the car. He did well on the valve covers and alternator replacement (again).. don’t buy remanufactured. Dies quickly. Better to have a used genuine Mercedes part. Missing the top down even in the winter as it’s beautiful in Hawaii this time of the year. Also I am aware that there are specific tools to read the convertible’s trouble shooting codes. Isn’t it Star still? Thank you

 

[EtherNet]

Flaps not completely opening or closing is a different affair than poor alignment. If you have a broken c pillar cover, it may very well have sagged out of position prior to that happening. The base of the covers must perfectly align with the base of the window. If a misaligned flap causes trouble, simply loosen the screws underneath it and align the flap with the curve in the trunk lid.

Wow. A ton of info there! Looking at the diagram, it would appear that a problem with the s126/127 switch could cause the top to be completely inoperable. So that is helpful. I will check those things as well. Thank you very much

 

[EtherNet]

Picked the car up today as the mechanic is going on vacation. He replaced the actuator flap brackets. The flaps are tight against the trunk lid now. The battery was low when I started it up. When first trying to open the roof it said ‘see owners manual‘ in the cluster. Never seen that message before. I told him the battery might be low. Then it said ‘convenient functions available again‘, ok. And Then A moment later unavailable lol. Then available again. I pulled out into the sun and tried my magic. To our surprise the boot lifted and it seemed like the roof was going to work, but the top did not fold in to the trunk. He hadn’t seen it work to that point even yet. One thing I have been noticing is the passenger window has some undesired operation. You have to hold the window switch for a while to make it roll all the way up. When you open the passenger door, the window drops down about one inch, and will not close when closing the door. You have to hold the switch down. Seems related? I have read that the window regulator is related to the operation of the roof. Another theory is the battery is just low and the top won’t quite work yet. This is what it has done to me before when I was having charging problems from the alternator. Gona drive it a bunch and see if the top starts to work.

 

[EtherNet]

After disconnecting the battery, you have to reset the windows. Hold both switches up for a few seconds until all four windows close fully.

It sounds like the rear battery is on the way out. Very strange things happen when the battery on the 230 goes palliative. Charge it up fully or replace it with the correct AGM type and see what happens. It sounds like the roof is functioning normally though.

The trunk battery is new just replaced. The car was sitting in the shop for a few weeks. Asked him to charge battery but he only ran the car for a while he says. HE should have charged it. He just is not aware of how much Parasitic draw these cars have

 

[EtherNet]

After disconnecting the battery, you have to reset the windows. Hold both switches up for a few seconds until all four windows close fully.

It sounds like the rear battery is on the way out. Very strange things happen when the battery on the 230 goes palliative. Charge it up fully or replace it with the correct AGM type and see what happens. It sounds like the roof is functioning normally though.

thanks for your reply. How should I try to reset the windows? They all roll up but the passenger side you have to hold it down. It seems to drop an unnecessary amount and the small window won’t roll up unless hold switch for long time.

 

[EtherNet]

As mentioned, after disconnecting the battery, you have to reset the windows. Hold both switches up for a few seconds until all four windows close fully and see if the issue persists.

If the battery was new then it should charge up OK by just driving it, or charging it with an external charger. If it flattened in a few weeks then you might have excessive quiescent draw, which will need to be measured with a DC milliamp meter. See how you go first though with the roof issue.

If you use the car regularly then it should hold charge OK but most of us find we get the 'consumers offline' message after a couple of weeks sitting idle, without an external charger attached.

Thanks! Charging now. Will try resetting the windows after it fully charged and disconnect and reconnect

 

[EtherNet]

Just to add to the window reset, when you hold the switch up for the back window, if you are in a quiet surrounding, you will hear what sounds like 2 or 3 clicks or taps coming from the back.

Thank you. I just fully charged the battery. Roof not coming off but boot opening properly. Should I have the windows down when I disconnect the battery? Or have them up and roll down and then up upon reconnecting?

 

[EtherNet]

Once the boot is open, what happens next? Do the flaps fold out? That is the next step in the process.

It doesn't matter where the windows are when you connect or disconnect the battery.

That’s what I thought too. No the flaps are not folding out! I’m hearing the ‘whiirrrrr‘ of the pump loud and clear. It just keeps making that sound without the flaps folding out. No leaks from the system that I can detect. Trunk is clean will recheck tank levels as mentioned

 

[EtherNet]

Are your front windows dropping slightly and your rear windows going all the way down?

The passenger window drops one inch when the door is opened and does not close upon closing of the door. You need to go back into the car and hold down the switch for the passenger side. The drivers side works normally. When opening the roof, the windows used to roll all the way down, now they roll down just a couple inches and stop. After disconnecting battery and trying to reset window travel, to no avail. Time was not reset however, so leaving battery unhooked for an hour before try to reset again at sundown.

 

[EtherNet]

Check the fluid level in the reservoir for the roof pump in the boot. There are arrows on the plastic tank. You might have a leak from one or more of the cylinders.

No leaks luckily. It’s been a reliable roof for the most part. Replaced top lock cylinders last year.

 

[EtherNet]

Reset windows; only heard clicks from the driver side. Leads me to think the window regulator on the passenger side is malfunctioning. When putting up the top, the window rolls down an inch again on the passenger side when it Says ‘roof closed’. Mysterious. Also the windows went up and down strangely like they were confused for a moment, I’m used to the two front windows going up whilst putting the top down and the small rear windows staying down unless I select to put them up. I’m thinking this is the root of my issues. Thanks everyone I’ll let you know what the outcome is. Mechanic is being cool not charging me for repairs of top and just working with me until we figure it out. Just have to enjoy the drive for now, which is good!!

 

[EtherNet]

When you start to lower the roof, the front windows should drop slightly and the rears should go all the way down. The roof controller requires that all four windows are in the proper position before proceeding with opening the roof. In order to know the position of each window, they need to be normalized, and the two door controllers must be communicating to the roof module. The roof module controls the rear windows directly.

Since you were working in the trunk. I would also check the switch/wiring on the trunk lift cylinder near the left taillight. It needs to register as fully up before the roof will start to lower. The plastic rod is easily broken, or the wires may have been damaged.

Great advice sir!

 

[EtherNet]

When you start to lower the roof, the front windows should drop slightly and the rears should go all the way down. The roof controller requires that all four windows are in the proper position before proceeding with opening the roof. In order to know the position of each window, they need to be normalized, and the two door controllers must be communicating to the roof module. The roof module controls the rear windows directly.

Since you were working in the trunk. I would also check the switch/wiring on the trunk lift cylinder near the left taillight. It needs to register as fully up before the roof will start to lower. The plastic rod is easily broken, or the wires may have been damaged.

What does the plastic rod do? Can’t get in there as I don’t have all those torx bits. Will tell mechanic. Wiring looks ok from the pump side. Could be pinched somewhere he wasn’t paying attention to while installing. Seems as the windows are my problem!! Couldn’t get it to reset, but it still all works from the switch at least, just funky. My thinking it might not have to do with that is the fact the window drops an inch when just opening the door. So not related to those computers? Since he has been working in the trunk, it does seem related to that doesn’t it. Broken roof flap bracket all in the same swipe. Confusing!