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2005 W215 CL500
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3,893 Posts
another ******* approach is to stuff the boot with fiberglass insulation if you have some at home. it will eliminate the road noise, it works. ask me how i know:D
It has worked well for me too...for three years so far.
 

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1998 E320 wagon
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11 Posts
Did anyone ever post up a full DIY on this? I loosened the bolt holding the steering coupler to the shaft a good amount, but the shaft doesn't seem to want to come loose from the clamp... There's very little room to work around the clamp. Did the steering shaft come loose easily for you guys?
 

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1998 E320 wagon
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11 Posts
Since no one responded, I guess I'll share my solution to the problem. All the information I could find on the internet indicated that people had just loosened the aforementioned bolt; however, this IS NOT sufficient, you have to actually remove the bolt completely. The reason is that the shaft has a notch which the bolt passes through, so you need to get the bolt fully out of the way.

After I pulled the bolt out, it was a pretty simple procedure. For whatever reason I wasn't able to get the shaft entirely into the foot area of the cabin (maybe my steering wheel wouldn't move as far out as it should have? Not sure.) So what I did was put lubricant in the relevant areas of the boot (pretty obvious), get under the car, and work it into the general area. Then I went back to the cabin and fussed with the boot until it was on and locked properly into place on the firewall.

Another issue I ran into (apart from dropping the bolt into the exhaust shield while trying to get it in from below, a whole different story) was that after I pressed the shaft back into the coupler, the bolt wouldn't go through. What happened was that the shaft actually went a bit too far. You need to align the notch to the hole; the easiest way I figured out was to open the hood of the car fully. From here, if you down look behind the drivers side of the engine, you can see the coupler. You can then move the steering wheel until the hole is vertical and adjust the shaft from the cabin to align it, and then carefully drop the bolt into the hole from above. This way, you know everything is adjusted properly.

After I got the bolt in and got it hand tight from above, I moved the steering wheel so that I could access it from below and tightened it to 20 nm.

All in all, not that bad, but pretty poorly documented. From all appearances (and sounds) the boot seems to be happily in place. Hopefully my experiences can help someone else! Sorry I didn't take any pictures.
 

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Outstanding Contributor , SDS Guru
1998 MB E300TD, 1997 MB E36 AMG, 2001 MB E55 AMG. 2011 BMW 335d
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6,009 Posts
pressed the shaft back into the coupler, the bolt wouldn't go through. What happened was that the shaft actually went a bit too far. You need to align the notch to the hole; the easiest way I figured out was to open the hood of the car fully. From here, if you down look behind the drivers side of the engine, you can see the coupler. You can then move the steering wheel until the hole is vertical and adjust the shaft from the cabin to align it, and then carefully drop the bolt into the hole from above. This way, you know everything is adjusted properly.
Thanks man, this is the part I had problems with. I was able to shove the boot into the firewall hole, but then I couldn't push the shaft into the coupler. Your tip of going into the cabin and pushing it in after lining up the shaft on the coupler....that helped, big time.

I was able to do the whole procedure in less than 30 minutes, including the time I spent jacking up the car.

Oh, FWIW, I paid $12.12 for the boot at my local MB dealer.

Not sure if because my car is pre-facelift or because it's a M104... but the boot part number that I got for my VIN did not match the one above... my PN was 210-462-01-96.
 
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99 E320
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5,288 Posts
as long as someone used EPC, that should do the trick. dont have time to
crank it up right now but, according to one of the Russian parts catalogs,
the difference almost appears to be R vs L hand drive, but without having
them side-by-side, dunno.
 

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Outstanding Contributor , SDS Guru
1998 MB E300TD, 1997 MB E36 AMG, 2001 MB E55 AMG. 2011 BMW 335d
Joined
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6,009 Posts
as long as someone used EPC, that should do the trick. dont have time to
crank it up right now but, according to one of the Russian parts catalogs,
the difference almost appears to be R vs L hand drive, but without having
them side-by-side, dunno.
Based on that PDF, the part number that is for my car -- 210-462-01-96 -- is meant for cars with production date up to 12/98.

The ones after that use 210-462-05-96 -- so clearly something is different from old and new.
 
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