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1987 560 SL, 1990 300E 4Matic
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It looks like it could have been a lot worse. Looking at your pics, it appears that damage is limited mostly to the exterior and didn't penetrate so far inward to affect the structure of your car past the suspension parts. If I had to guess, it would be that you'll have her up, and running again!
 

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450slc5.0cab 280sl5sp 280se4.5 500se+500slAMG +250seStkW108 350sl4spdX3 500secEuro
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maybe when you remove the fender you can get to the end of the severed cable and pull it to open the hood.
Fender bolts run along the hood line, so properly removing the fender without opening the hood won’t be possible. He could still cut the fender though.

I will try to take a look at the route for the hood cable on my 1985 500sl AMG in a few minutes.

The hood latch “tower” is the piece that gets pulled to release the hood. Pressing down on the hood should help remove friction. If it is just “jammed”, it might be possible to have one person pull the release cable in the cabin while another is pressing down on the hood, and then pull up on the hood once the release lever is pulled.
 

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1987 560 SL, 1990 300E 4Matic
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I will try to take a look at the route for the hood cable on my 1985 500sl AMG in a few minutes.
I was going to do the same thing. Your suggesting that he try pressing down on the hood is a good idea too. You never know...
 

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1977 450sl
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58 Posts
K&k manufacturing in Michigan lists a front left fender for $900. Website is kkmfg.com. They have a fairly comprehensive R107 catalog, and have been helpful and responsive to my questions so far.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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450slc5.0cab 280sl5sp 280se4.5 500se+500slAMG +250seStkW108 350sl4spdX3 500secEuro
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I will try to take a look at the route for the hood cable on my 1985 500sl AMG in a few minutes.
Here’s a video. Hopefully this will help to get the hood open.



Edit:
Taking a better look at the pics, I am going to guess that the bumper support and probably radiator support is bent. The gap between the hood and fender shows that the whole radiator support is probably in the wrong spot, probably pulled to the driver side and back. The latch part is on the driver side, making it more difficult to open the hood. See the video. Maybe prying the hood away from the passenger fender will help. Big wide prying device is probably what you need to fit into the gap between the passenger fender and the front of the hood.
 

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1989 560SEC, 1989 560SEL, 1995 E420
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BayAreaBenz85, I'm in the Bay Area, too. Assuming you mean the San Francisco one.

If you're not too far from San Carlos, I'd like to offer a second set of hands if you need some help. Really sorry for your loss.

We lost our '73 450SE a while ago with damage in about the same place. As long as you didn't bend frame rails, this shouldn't be too bad to fix.
 

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1984 300D Euro
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154 Posts
I have a friend here in NC who owns a salvage yard that has several 380SL that are NOT wrecked. I'm absolutely sure he would be reasonable. IF you need his contact, drop me an email:

[email protected]

Richard
1984 380SL
1988 560SL
1989 560SL
 

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2012 CLS 550 sedan
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246 Posts
My condolences for your 107. the fools are everywhere. Good thing is, you are Ok
 

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1979 Mercedes 450SLC , 1962 Mercedes 220SE , 1982 Mercedes 280SEL , 1982 Mercedes 300D
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17 Posts
Hey . Sorry about your car but good thing you are OK . The pictures don't look so bad . You can purchase a used fender and door . You will need to check your subframe for damage . Change the shock and arms and you should be good . Engine should not be damaged as this is more of a side impact . Hope you can fix her up
 

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Oh the pain... Not so long ago, I had a vehicle I loved and could not see myself driving any other vehicle. One day, 15 years after I bought the vehicle, the wheel fell off while driving. The damage was extensive. The cost to repair was over triple what the vehicle was worth. With a heavy heart and tears in my eyes, I finally admitted that I drove the wheels of the car (literally) and it was time to find a new one. This is the story of how I got my first Mercedes, a 2016 C300 with just over 34K. I love this car and can't see myself in any other vehicle....

Anyways, I think you get the point. I feel you pain. However a saying does come to mind, "how can you get new stuff if you don't break the old. :)
 

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1972 350 SL
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124 Posts
Discussion Starter #32
I thought about that but the bolts to take the fender off are under the hood. The grill is surprisingly intact so i don’t want to go messing around there unless i can get a screw driver or some tool in between the slats and pop it somehow but i e gone out there a couple times and stuck out trying to get it open.

The more I look at the car the more i’m realizing these cars are tanks. I can’t believe it’s only a panel, door, control arm, wheel and shock. All those parts aren’t that bad, I’m finding fenders for $200-300 on craigslist and i was prepping to paint the car anyways before the crash so she might rise from the dead sooner or later... if I could only get the damn hood off!
 

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1972 350 SL
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Discussion Starter #33
wow I didn’t even see the second page of posts, I only saw white spiders post at the end. reading through everything now and def. going to watch Fonzis video. I’ll post back if I make any headway. really appreciate everyone helping me with this, I’m finally feeling optimistic and my wife almost warmed up to the idea of buying a new one so who knows I might fix this one and sell it or maybe just buy another... why not ;)
 

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I thought about that but the bolts to take the fender off are under the hood. The grill is surprisingly intact so i don’t want to go messing around there unless i can get a screw driver or some tool in between the slats and pop it somehow but i e gone out there a couple times and stuck out trying to get it open.

The more I look at the car the more i’m realizing these cars are tanks. I can’t believe it’s only a panel, door, control arm, wheel and shock. All those parts aren’t that bad, I’m finding fenders for $200-300 on craigslist and i was prepping to paint the car anyways before the crash so she might rise from the dead sooner or later... if I could only get the damn hood off!
Did you watch the video I posted? If you need, I can try to replicate the process on one of my lesser cars.

You would go in via the grill star, not the grill slats.


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1972 350 SL
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124 Posts
Discussion Starter #35
Did you watch the video I posted? If you need, I can try to replicate the process on one of my lesser cars.

You would go in via the grill star, not the grill slats.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
That video helped a lot! I really should have thought about it more because of course I should have known the cable ran right there... where else could it go but I ended up finding the cable and tugged on it and bam it opened...

But the bad news is you were also right in the fact that the radiator support is bent. I guess it’s only one more part so it shouldn’t discourage me but i was really hoping to not touch anything up front or engine bay. It’s hard to get the right angle but I took some photos of the front and then a bunch of random ones. I took all the bolts off for the fender except the big bolt in between the door and fender as I need to take the door off first and i’m not ready for all that tonight but after I get the fender off I’m going to focus on putting oil back in, fixing the leak or finding that it’s something bigger than I thought like a cracked block or something catastrophic and if she runs good march forward with a full rebuild.

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and yes it looks like the apocalypse here and all that grey stuff is ashes all over everywhere here
 

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1987 560 SL, 1990 300E 4Matic
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608 Posts
Looking at your pics I started thinking that the leak could be coming from your power steering line, or box. Or maybe a transmission line.
 

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1972 350 SL
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124 Posts
Discussion Starter #37
Looking at your pics I started thinking that the leak could be coming from your power steering line, or box. Or maybe a transmission line.
Not saying there isn’t a leak there, that’s very possible but I checked the oil and it’s bone dry and also stuck my finger in the pool of fluid on the tow truck bed and it was black/golden. The car was always my super cheap ebay but that I was slowly fixing up major things down to the minor before this all happened so she was far from perfect. That’s also bouncing around in my head, saying ok Mark you are hooked on the 107 now, that’s for sure, maybe I should just skip go and spend more and get a better starting point. I was just proud of this car running so damn well literally the week before this happened. Got the rough idle completely fixed and so now I’m torn between saving her or letting her go.
 

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380SL, Jag F-type
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I know it is emotionally hard decision, but it is almost always more economical to start from a clean example if your goal is to get all-sorted car.
 

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1983 380SL, ivory/dk brown, 46k miles, dual roller timing chain. 1986 560SL, red/white, 190K mile.
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7,068 Posts
Parts Car.

Factor in all the parts you are going to need, the time, the value after, versus the value of the parts you can obtain in a part out.

Then compare it all to what its going to cost for a better R107, perhaps even a later model.

If your R107 was a manual, or a 280SL, or a 500SL, maybe a different story.
 
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True. I have two pretty solid 1972-1973 cars that I was able to buy as parts cars, and both are running and driving but need bunches of work. If you were closer, buying one of mine for the body would be a no-brainer.

It is strange that you would lose all your oil. Have you tried draining the oil to see if it is truly bone dry? Or maybe you just lost enough to dry the dip stick? 8+ quarts of oil is a LOT to spill on the ground. Maybe the subframe move far enough to crack the oil pan though. If that’s the case, the whole subframe comes out of the car and the AC compressor has to come off just to replace the oil pan. Lots of work.

Do you have a space you can store the car under cover so it doesn’t look like such a mess?
 
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