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1959 220S cabriolet, 1983 240D original owner, 1999 E300 turbo diesel, 1988 560SL, 2003 SLK320
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3,513 Posts
Excellent job - thanks.

Len
 

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Well Done!

Hi,

Well done on an excellent job. I have the same problem with my 1996 E280 here in South Africa. I realize the thread is a bit older, but can anyone identify which vehicle the green slider is originally from? Since it needed to be modified... me thinks it is a spare part for another vehicle using the same OEM supplier as Merc. I am just asking because ordering the part from the states will be difficult for me as well as expensive. Maybe someone here has seen the green slider in another car so that I can try and get it from their agents in order to avoid having to buy the whole regulator from Mercedes which comes at an astronomical cost here.
 

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great advice. It is guys like you make some of our lives easier. I wished I would have seen this before I replaced my regulator. Nice work!!!
 

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Worked great

Used that part to replace the wimpy white plastic.. That green piece is defently stronger you can tell from just looking at it. I installed and put every thing to gether with NAS screws and locking nuts.. Works great and gives me piece of mind knowing its alot stronger. Thanks so much for making this DIY section and for everyone posting there fixes:)
 

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W210.265/2001, W220/S500/2000, Porsche 997 C2S/2006, GMC K1500/1992
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2,157 Posts
I replaced the broken white plastic with the Green slider from AutohausAZ, which cost $9.50/pc. I bought 2 at the same time. When I drill out the rivet the side of the hole cracked. So I have to practice the drilling again and 2nd time works fine. I tapped the regulator anchor holes with 1/4" but also use 4 , 1/4" -20 x 1/2" machine screws and 4, 1/4" -20 nylon lock nuts and a 1/4" x 1/2" hex bolt Fine and nut to secured the old metal plate to the Green slider. The total cost of the Green slider $18.50, all bolts and nuts $10.
The repair project cost me $28.50 instead of $6.95 because I broke the first green slider. Next time it will cost me $18.50. The time I spend on it is over 2 hrs. However, I do not recommend it to some one do not have a drill press. A bench press drill is needed to take out the rivets from the broken white original plastic and the new green slider. Actually, install the regulator is very easy, you are able to reach the top hole in the door cell after pushed up the window and you need a small ratchet wrench to hold the nut.
 

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10 GLK 350 4Matic
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704 Posts
Careful With That Green Part - It's Delicate

Really nice post but real caution is called for on removing the rivet holding the green part to the white holder.

- The green parts rivet needs to be drilled out from the green part side - not the white part. The white part has a large shoulder and won't remove from that side.

- The green part is very heat sensitive. Be careful of the heat generated by the drilling of the rivet. I ended up using a Dremel tool to carefully grind the head off while cooling in water frequently. Then I used my drill press to push the rivet out slowly.

- I then used a 1/4 28 bolt with a shoulder instead of a rivet with a thread locker to avoid any additional stress on the green plastic.

I ruined my first green part when some heat deformed the green plastic piece and then cracked when I tried to clean it up to glide on the rail properly.
 

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'01-E320 & 02-ST2
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Standing on the shoulders of giants...

:bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown:

So I'm driving home Saturday night, pull up at a light, Dodge Ram diesel pulls up to the left of me. Seems a bit too loud, so I check to be sure the windows are up.

You all cringed, didn't you? :D

That's because you know what's coming, even without me posting in this thread. Crunch...but at least the window stayed up. I had already bought a pair of the green things so yesterday I ran through this process for the first time.

The only comments I can add to YM's excellent DIY:

1. My 2001 had an additional large screw under the "SRS" plastic cover, which pops loose but had a little retaining tab. This screw must also be removed to pull the door liner.

2. Buy the green things and drill them apart when they come, which will save you time when the inevitable happens. Rather than worrying about drilling down the dead center, I used a 5/16" bit to drill off the head of the rivet on the metal side, since you throw away the metal it's no big deal to chew into it a bit. This avoids the problem daisound chronicled with the bit cracking the green thing. I also used a drill-driver (screwgun) to more easily manage speed, angle, etc. No heat problems as Mike had.

3. And regarding this pic:



Since this secures the part that fails, rather than riveting it I used a 5x16mm machine screw and a 5mm nylock (locking nut) with the nut on the plastic side. That will make the next (eventual) repair quite easy. I did, however, rivet the regulator back in because that is SOOOOO fast ... and devoid of struggling with screws and nuts way up in the door panel. :thumbsup:


My thanks to Kajtek1 for the initial pioneering work and to Yacht Master for going the extra mile to show the steps all the way through.

I plan on doing the right one in the immediate future before it fails. I think it will go VERY quickly this time around. I'll try to remember the camera to show the fastener I used in place.
 

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Excellent right up! Thanks for saving me a trip to the mechanic. I was able to repair my rear/passenger window with this write up. For about $12 bucks, this fix definitely saved me some $$$$$!
 

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W210.265/2001, W220/S500/2000, Porsche 997 C2S/2006, GMC K1500/1992
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In order to completely avoid the green part to be broken when drill out from the white and metal part, I suggest you to drill out the head from the green side while you will use a vice grip to hold the other end of the head next to the white part. That way will avoid the rivit to spin and created heat. You can use the drill press very effectively.
 

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2001 E320 4Matic
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The very same window came down and never came back up on my 2001 E320. Has anyone done this job on this model? I heard something drop inside the panel and could hear the motor run and you guessed it, the window did not close after that.

Excellent write up indeed, thanks!
 

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'01-E320 & 02-ST2
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31,633 Posts
The very same window came down and never came back up on my 2001 E320. Has anyone done this job on this model? I heard something drop inside the panel and could hear the motor run and you guessed it, the window did not close after that.

Excellent write up indeed, thanks!
FWIW, it often proves helpful to read through all of the posts in a given DIY thread before posting an inquiry, because others typically add their notes and ideas to the thread. If you read up just a few posts (#30) you will find that it has indeed been done on the 01. Only change of note is the additional screw.

This is the cheapest way to fix it, but it's not the easiest since you have to re-string the cables, drilling, riveting on the slide, etc. It's quicker and easier just to replace the regulator assembly, although you have to spend a few minutes swapping the motor to the new one.

Of course the easiest is to just drop the car at the shop with a wad of cash. :D
 

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2004 clk500
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good write up and excellent pictures, i remember i used these pictures when i first replace my left rear regulator. i bought a new one from ebay off fcp groton and it broke just a like last week or so, the cable broke, its got rust on it. so it lasted me a year and a half. water must have somehow got to it. i bought another one for $31 shipped. they go for $33 on ebay all day so its alot easier to just replace the whole unit.

if you have rear side air bags, theres a screw behind the srs cap.
 

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1996 E320
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131 Posts
Cracked my first one (for passenger side, seller disclosed that one didn't work at least...), but I just hit it with a Bic lighter, smeared a bit with a nail head, then made a little spring steel brace out of fat windshield wiper spine. Bent it kinda like a staple with hooks at the very end, heated the thing up with the torch holding it with the needle-nose, and then just melted it into the green thing.

Looks strong.

BUTBUTBUTBUTBUTBUTBUTBUTBUTBUT

I couldn't find the metal clip!!! NOWHERE. But since the door handle was disconnected from the cable AND there was no rivet holding the motor housing to the door (and skid marks where it once was), I think some clown opened it up to see what was up and then botched closing it up after giving up.

Does ANYBODY have one I can buy????? Hayelllppp!!!

Took the one from the left side and really had to muscle the formerly-kinked up cable into it. Finally levered it in with needle-nose on the cable and the had the Bride hammer the cable down into the slot.

The left side is different--oval "derailleur" bumps on the pulleys to get the cable on the wheel, one fewer Torx screw holding the motor housing on, and a wraparound design on the pulley shield thingy on one end. Maybe the right side was fixed and riveted before?? And the cable ends snug up about a half-inch apart instead of a full inch.
 

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2000 E240 W210 & 1993 W124 220E
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Hi Guys,

Hope I'm posting this in the right thread.

How does one go about diagnosing a faulty window regulator? I've had my 2000 W210 for two months now. Since I got it, one of the rear windows does not not work. It is in the upright position, but after driving around for a couple days, it sort of drops by a fraction of an inch. I can then put it up again with my hands pressed up against it.

Is this the window regulator failure? How do I diagnose it?

Thanks in advance.
 

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'01-E320 & 02-ST2
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31,633 Posts
Hi Guys,

Hope I'm posting this in the right thread.

How does one go about diagnosing a faulty window regulator? I've had my 2000 W210 for two months now. Since I got it, one of the rear windows does not not work. It is in the upright position, but after driving around for a couple days, it sort of drops by a fraction of an inch. I can then put it up again with my hands pressed up against it.

Is this the window regulator failure? How do I diagnose it?

Thanks in advance.
Doe the window operate smoothly with the button, including the one-touch feature? What happens if you press the button to raise it?

I'd try re-syncing it and if that has no effect, pop open the door and have a look. It's pretty simple.
 

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1996 E320
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131 Posts
Hi Guys,

Hope I'm posting this in the right thread.

How does one go about diagnosing a faulty window regulator? I've had my 2000 W210 for two months now. Since I got it, one of the rear windows does not not work. It is in the upright position, but after driving around for a couple days, it sort of drops by a fraction of an inch. I can then put it up again with my hands pressed up against it.

Is this the window regulator failure? How do I diagnose it?

Thanks in advance.
that's EXACTLY what my left rear door window did. It was trashed. Fixed.
 

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2000 E240 W210 & 1993 W124 220E
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45 Posts
Doe the window operate smoothly with the button, including the one-touch feature? What happens if you press the button to raise it?

I'd try re-syncing it and if that has no effect, pop open the door and have a look. It's pretty simple.
It doesn't operate at all. Just stays in the upright position, dropping a tiny bit obviously from bumps in the road, etc.

So LVAtty, you reckon the regulator is shot? Guess I'm going to have to open it up and have a look.
 
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