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Ride height

38205 Views 151 Replies 21 Participants Last post by  Djcoolray
Does anyone know where there is info on the stock ride height on a 98 320 ?

Should the side body strips be horizontal ? Or do I need to measure the tire fender clearance etc? From the front it looks low to me and I wonder if there was some work done as I noticed the front number cover is loose on the drivers side.

Tnx
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Thanks to MB deciding to use inclinometers rather than a linear measurement like BMW, what you (and everyone else) is asking for apparently does not exist. Since no one on this board owns a new W163, we can't measure one either. I would be extremely surprised if MB set them up from the factory with the front higher than the rear, therefore it's likely that if you set the front no higher than level with the rear (with a full tank of fuel), it will probably be closer to where it's supposed to be than it is now. It sounds like the front end on your ML has drooped quite a bit. With a full tank of fuel, wearing OE tires and with the torsion bar bushings apparently not broken, the front end on my ML is ~5/8" lower than the rear. That's probably pretty close to where it's supposed to be, but possibly a bit low. When I change the torsion bar bushings (probably in August), I'll let you know if they were broken.
Finally had the torsion bar bushings from Boschbrakes installed. The old ones were definitely broken.

The ride height front and rear is ~850 mm, with about 5/8 tank full of fuel. For those of you who prefer imperial, that's about 2' 9 1/2". I measured from the highest point of the wheelwell to the floor. Since I measured last time, I replaced the tires, so the baseline is probably a bit different. The tires are stock size (255/60-17) with 35 psi pressure front and rear.
Thats close to the number I figured out from a picture. I was going to get the lower body sill line level or have the from arch with a cm or 2 of the rear and call it a day.
For anyone planning to adjust their torsion bars, here are some numbers to help with fine-tuning.

8 full turns anticlockwise of the adjusting bolt increased the depth of the inspection hole from 31 mm to 37 mm, for a 29 mm drop in height at the wheel arch.

After adjustment with the wheels in the air, the final height after driving was 19 mm lower than the height 30 minutes after lowering it (which was about 10 mm lower than the height immediately afterwards). In other words, expect the car to settle over an inch after you first lower it.

My suspension is entirely stock and original.
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so for the non-mechanics here, Im seeking to set front suspension a little harder, now is very soft and every time aI go thru a small bump, front goes all the way with a "thump"......, so shall go up or down for harder suspension with Tbar???
You have to go up if you want a stiffer ride, that means raising the front.
Try cranking the bars in small steps and be sure to match right and left.
so for the non-mechanics here, Im seeking to set front suspension a little harder, now is very soft and every time aI go thru a small bump, front goes all the way with a "thump"......, so shall go up or down for harder suspension with Tbar???
You will need to turn the nut "clockwise" which will now raise the suspension as gotca stated. Place a tape measure or stick into the hole next to the nut and measure and record its depth each time you adjust it, so you can gauge what firmness is to your liking.
Do the same for the other side to match it.
Make sure they are even otherwise, you will have alignment issues. :)
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Australian Ride heights

Hi Forum

I know I'm a little late to this thread but here are the figures as certified by NSW Australia but relate to all of Australia. I just like the NSW format better than the national Road Vehicle Certification Scheme but they are the same figures.

Cheers

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The bump is a bushing problem.....
?

kindly elaborate.
The bump is a bushing problem.....
I think it was exhale part that hit me first time.:|
A bushing is a piece of formed rubber between two pieces of metal, the bushing also maintains alignment of the suspension as a whole. When the rubber bushing wears through....you have metal upon metal contact (clunk) and lack of precision steering.
A bushing is a piece of formed rubber between two pieces of metal, the bushing also maintains alignment of the suspension as a whole. When the rubber bushing wears through....you have metal upon metal contact (clunk) and lack of precision steering.
Could be ball-joints in the control arms also.....
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