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1990 clk
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Have removed fan (without removing shroud, easily slid out) and need to remove serpentine belt. I have the old belt tensioner with the torx bolt on the outside of the center of the pulley, so do I need to use an E-10 torx socket turning left to release the belt and if I do not have a pin to lock in place will a adequate sized nail do? Also when reading the diy posted for a ML320, it mentions removing the idler pulley by prying off the dust cap with a small screw driver and removing the bolt underneath but doesn't say what size and type the bolt is? When reading the wis for this procedure I see nothing mentioned about needing to remove the idler pulley, so is this necessary to remove the water pump in my vehicle? Any and all advice would be appreciated. I have read the advice regarding replacing the idler pulley and belt tensioner and will asses all pulleys after removing the belt for play, noise, etc. I did not observe any apparent wobble or noise on prior examinnation with engine running.
 

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1990 clk
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Actually that's the diy pdf that I already stated that I read, which makes no mention of what type and size of bolt under the dust cap of the idler pulley and which the wis found in other posts (below) makes no mention of in the replacement of the water pump. His pdf also doesn't address the belt tensioner that my vehicle has which has the protruding not inverted torx bolt. So if anyone knowledgeable with the water pump replacement on an 01 ML430 could help it would be appreciated.

https://www.google.com/url?q=http:/...sQFjAB&usg=AFQjCNGmejJYgL6e324nwejyh813mAAiHA
 

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Outstanding Contributor
2002 ML320, 2003 A160, 2002 ML500, 2018 GLS350d
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If you had really read that pdf (and looked at the photos on pages 3 and 6), you would not be asking about using an E10 Torx socket to release the tensioner. You turn the hex(nut)-shaped stud adjacent to the tensioner pulley, counter-clockwise. And you need a 5 mm-diameter drift or rod. A 5 mm-diameter nail would do.

The pdf further states that you may replace the idler pulley if necessary. That means you don't need to. If you don't already own Torx bits, you buy them in a set and use the one that fits. The photo on page 8 shows that the idler pulley bolt is a Torx.

You are correct that the WIS doesn't mention that you need to remove the idler pulley bolt. Try not removing it and see how far you get. The WIS is great, but it isn't perfect.

I hope that explains it.
 

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Actually that's the diy pdf that I already stated that I read, which makes no mention of what type and size of bolt under the dust cap of the idler pulley and which the wis found in other posts (below) makes no mention of in the replacement of the water pump. His pdf also doesn't address the belt tensioner that my vehicle has which has the protruding not inverted torx bolt. So if anyone knowledgeable with the water pump replacement on an 01 ML430 could help it would be appreciated.

https://www.google.com/url?q=http:/...sQFjAB&usg=AFQjCNGmejJYgL6e324nwejyh813mAAiHA
Firstly, WIS documents usually do not provide specific tools sizes, as they (technicians) are required/understood to have them. These documents are not published for us, they are published for their technicians.

Secondly, in the WIS R&I of the Water Pump, it does not say to remove the Idler Pulley, but merzat possibly removed it to make things easier for himself or he decided to change it simply as a maintenance measure or it was in fact faulty. Have you removed the dust cap to see what size it might be? Probably an E8 female torx socket is needed.

Also, I do not recommend using a nail to hold that tensioner in place. There is extreme spring pressure involved. It might initially hold, but then give way as you are installing it and then fingers come into play. Find a small Phillips screwdriver as close to a 5mm diameter as you can.

Thirdly, if you are going to be your own mechanic, it is foolish to buy individual tools for each specific job. You must have starter sets of sockets, wrenches, ratchets, male and female torx sockets, etc.

Lastly, after you type your narrative, then list your questions individually. It is much easier for us, instead of reading through two run-on posts to find them .
 

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Banned
1990 clk
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
And you're not reading what I'm stating, I have a different tensioner than either of the two shown in the pdf. Also, though it shows a pic on page 8 of the idler with the cap off and the torx loosened it doesn't tell what size and a simple yes or no regarding if the idler needed removing to replace the pump was all that I was asking. Although I read the form regularly I seldom post (less than once or twice a year) because of the attitude and snobby remarks by a few of the members. If you read a post of mine or someone else seeking help and can't reply politely with the intent to help someone seeking knowledge with less than many of the others on here, than please just refrain and say nothing at all, exercise some restraint.
Here's a youtube link
to a video which at approx. the 30 second mark shows my tensioner on the right with a e-10 inverted torx, where it appears to suggest that the tension is released by using it not the "hex(nut)-shaped stud adjacent to the tensioner pulley" which mine doesn't appear to have. Maybe you should do a little more research before you rudely reply regarding a tensioner that you have no knowledge of.
And if the wis is such a joke or so unreliable than why do so many of you swear by it and quote it like it's the bible or something.
 

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1990 clk
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Also, Drx is saying that you can't remove the water pump without removing the idler while 43sqd is saying it's optional, two so called experts with opposite answers.
Drx...a 5mm nail would do....43sqd....wouldn't....which is it. Don't worry, I won't be posting for any more help on this site. 43sqd....I have read dozens, maybe hundreds of your posts and most are blunt, rude, and/or condescending. Again, if you can't say something nice or in a helpful patient way, then just refrain from responding at all. I have read dozens of posts where others have commented on your absolutist views. I've seen members such as Detane attacked and criticized for trying to help and/or for having alternate views/solutions to a problem. Not everyone spends all their waking hours obsessed with vehicles and collect thousands of documents and garages full of tools or can afford to do so. Obviously many of us are here because we can't afford to pay the stealer's prices and can only buy parts and tools needed for a particular job and come here in hopes of finding some FRIENDLY help. As I said, I will lurk but post no longer.
 

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Super Old Fart Moderator
2002 ML320, 2005 S430 4MATIC RIP, 2010 F150 Crew Cab
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Friendly help is always available here to those who treat the guys offering their help nicely. I don't see that happening here so I think this fart fest is done.

Funny how you treat those who wish to help you with contempt.
 

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2002 ML320, 2003 A160, 2002 ML500, 2018 GLS350d
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http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w163-m-class/1768153-replacing-water-pump-01-ml430-need.html
emmie319 said:
Have removed fan (without removing shroud, easily slid out) and need to remove serpentine belt. I have the old belt tensioner with the torx bolt on the outside of the center of the pulley, so do I need to use an E-10 torx socket turning left to release the belt[?]
Yes, counter-clockwise.
... and if I do not have a pin to lock in place will a adequate sized nail do?
A 5 mm diameter nail will do.
Also when reading the diy posted for a ML320, it mentions removing the idler pulley by prying off the dust cap with a small screw driver and removing the bolt underneath but doesn't say what size and type the bolt is?
It's a Torx bolt. Use whichever male Torx bit fits.
When reading the wis for this procedure I see nothing mentioned about needing to remove the idler pulley, so is this necessary to remove the water pump in my vehicle?
Yes. The idler pulley (or "guide pulley") bolt goes through the water pump housing. Assuming the engine 113 water pump is similar to the engine 112's. (I could be wrong.)

I apologize for posting incorrect information in the original thread. I thought the WIS applied across all 112 and 113 engines, but on closer reading I found that the 113 belt tensioners are different.
 

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http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w163-m-class/1768153-replacing-water-pump-01-ml430-need.html

Yes, counter-clockwise.

A 5 mm diameter nail will do.

It's a Torx bolt. Use whichever male Torx bit fits.

Yes. The idler pulley (or "guide pulley") bolt goes through the water pump housing. Assuming the engine 113 water pump is similar to the engine 112's. (I could be wrong.)

I apologize for posting incorrect information in the original thread. I thought the WIS applied across all 112 and 113 engines, but on closer reading I found that the 113 belt tensioners are different.

It's difficult to believe how you have gone out of your way to provide information, apologies and directions to a member who has been already BANNED from this forum.

What a slap in the face this was to the moderator and the rest of the forum, whether you agreed with the banning or not.
 

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Super Old Fart Moderator
2002 ML320, 2005 S430 4MATIC RIP, 2010 F150 Crew Cab
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It's difficult to believe how you have gone out of your way to provide information, apologies and directions to a member who has been already BANNED from this forum.

What a slap in the face this was to the moderator and the rest of the forum, whether you agreed with the banning or not.
I appreciate your sentiments but I didn't take it as a slap per se, mostly as an 'uh-oh, I may have been inadvertantly responsible for his demise.' kind of thing. But, no worries, guys. FWIW, the following thread is what put him out:
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w163-m-class/1768697-received-no-friendly-help-cmitch-just.html

Starting another thread after closing one in order to disparage members can't be tolerated. Thanks for your support.
 

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2002 ML320, 2003 A160, 2002 ML500, 2018 GLS350d
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It's difficult to believe how you have gone out of your way to provide information, apologies and directions to a member who has been already BANNED from this forum.

What a slap in the face this was to the moderator and the rest of the forum, whether you agreed with the banning or not.
43sqd, this is not the first time you have misinterpreted one of my posts.

I was trying to help the OP in the original thread. Then I was accused of being rude, inaccurate, and not giving straight answers.

So I posted this correction. It has nothing to do with anyone else's feelings, whether yours, the moderator's, or the rest of the forum.

The OP was disrespectful to you, and got banned. That doesn't mean I'm not permitted to admit my error.
 

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Super Old Fart Moderator
2002 ML320, 2005 S430 4MATIC RIP, 2010 F150 Crew Cab
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11,881 Posts
43sqd, this is not the first time you have misinterpreted one of my posts.

I was trying to help the OP in the original thread. Then I was accused of being rude, inaccurate, and not giving straight answers.

So I posted this correction. It has nothing to do with anyone else's feelings, whether yours, the moderator's, or the rest of the forum.

The OP was disrespectful to you, and got banned. That doesn't mean I'm not permitted to admit my error.
Thank you for clarifying your error. You can understand how your post could be taken by others as a slight since you started a new thread on a subject I closed a thread on but I understand the clarification. As far as I'm concerned, this matter is taken care of. I'll merge this one with the already closed thread so as not to confuse people on future searches. Thanks.
 
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