[cowboyt]

Hi folks,

After 21 years of use, the trunk springs on the wife's 2000 S500 just aren't holding up the trunk (boot). I thus bought two new trunk springs--they're not that expensive--and pulled off the left spring to replace it.

Problem 1: even with the trunk all the way open, those springs are under some serious tension. There is apparently a special MB tool to stretch them to where they can be installed. That tool is part # 220-589-03-31-00, which I learned courtesy of a WIS lookup. So, of course, I happily ordered it from MBOemParts.com, where it was listed for US $84. Then we run into....

Problem 2: the tool, 220-589-03-31-00 (Spring Tensioner), is apparently No Longer Available! I got an email from MBOemParts.com yesterday informing me as such.

I have tried using a large screwdriver to leverage the new spring on, but that's looking really dangerous. When I say it's under a lot of tension even with the trunk all the way open, I'm not kidding. I searched the Web and tried various other MB dealerships to see if they had this tool. and yep, NLA.

Therefore, since the tool is no longer available for purchase....

Does anybody have any suggestions for how to SAFELY get the new spring on? Has anyone had to do this without the special tool?

 

[wallyp]

Get a bunch (scientific notation) of small-to-medium (more scientific stuff) nails. Washers are actually better, but you probably don't have enough to do the job, and nails are a lot cheaper.
Clamp one end of the spring in a decent vise.
Bend the spring over as much as you can and start inserting nails. You can use your screwdriver to open the space between the coils a little bit - just enough to hold the nails in place while the spring is still bent. Get as many nails in one side as you can.
Turn the spring over and repeat the process. Hopefully, the spring will now be long enough that you can install it.
Raise the lid about 80% of the way and see if it will go on. If so, install it, then raise the lid to the max and start pulling the nails out.

 

[Deplore]

What a horrific idea with potential of death or worse.....EXPELLED!

I'll take 12.

Can you tell I'm no stranger to idiotic ideas?

 

[cowboyt]

Thanks, fellas, I'll give the nail idea a shot and report back. We do have plenty of those.

 

[Dave2302]

I use the Washer Method, done it lots, much safer than any form of stretching
When I say safer, I'm referring to the likelihood that a spring will end up through the rear screen

The trick to getting the washers / nails out is to pull the Boot Lid downwards, thus stretching the Springs and they fall out

 

[cowboyt]

Used the washer method this evening after work. Success, both springs! The key was to use 5/16-inch (8mm) galvanized washers that are normally used over here for lag bolts. You can get 'em at Lowe's or Home Depot, and it takes about 75 or so of the washers to do it. Together, they're thick enough to stretch the spring juuuuust enough to easily hook the end over the "closer" notch, if you first hook the other end of the spring over the trunk's hinge. That's where the original springs were, so I figured the same spot should work fine, and yeah, it does.

Thanks, guys, for this suggestion.

 

[MikeKerr]

Used the washer method this evening after work. Success, both springs! The key was to use 5/16-inch (8mm) galvanized washers that are normally used over here for lag bolts. You can get 'em at Lowe's or Home Depot, and it takes about 75 or so of the washers to do it. Together, they're thick enough to stretch the spring juuuuust enough to easily hook the end over the "closer" notch, if you first hook the other end of the spring over the trunk's hinge. That's where the original springs were, so I figured the same spot should work fine, and yeah, it does.

Thanks, guys, for this suggestion.

How about some pictures please?

 

[Dave2302]

Probably a bit late to ask that, however I did post pictures of this a long while ago, might be in my S500 Resurrection Thread ????

 

[cowboyt]

I'll see what I can do. Just found my Dad's old 9.0 megapixel digital camera; maybe it'll take some decent pics.

 

[cowboyt]

OK, we've got some pics. It's a 12-year-old camera, and thus close-up focus is not the best (it does better at 4-5 feet away), but I think the pics will still illustrate what's going on here.

I used one of the old springs to demonstrate the technique, since the new springs are of course already installed in the car. The spring is held in a bench vise. After that, we bend/flex it in one direction so we can insert the washers in between the coil spaces.

The washers. These are 5/16" (8mm) galvanized steel and can be gotten from any Home Depot, Lowe's, Ace Hardware, or similar store. You can see them next to the old trunk spring that I will use for this example.

The spring is held in the bench vise, and we are now bending it to insert the first washer.

This is what it looks like after inserting 11 washers. As you can see, you'll need plenty more to do the whole length of the spring, and yes, you do need to do the whole length of the spring, but this should be enough to give you the idea.

And now we do the other side. Bend it the other way, and insert the first washer, just like on the first side. Actually, I find doing the second side easier than doing the first.

And here's what it looks like after 12 washers on this side.

This is the new spring. When it's full of washers along both sides of its full length, it's just long enough to get around the hook notch on the car's body (in this case, the left side of the picture). I have found that it's much easier to first hook the spring around the trunk's mounting point first (in this case, the right side of the picture). Pretend there are a bunch of washers in the spring, and we've just mounted said spring.

Here's the spring's hook point on the car's body, closer up. Note that there are two hook points; the washers I used were thick enough to expand the spring just enough to reach the "first" one. Plus, that's where the old spring was anyway. So, that's where the new one went, too.

So, how to get those washers out? Remember, we're pretending the spring's still full of washers here.

Here's how. Just close the trunk some. Not all the way, just some; keep going until they fall right out, and for the most part, they will. While you're at it, it helps to tap the spring to get any straggler washers to drop. At that point, just pick 'em all up.

All done! Treat yourself to a drink of your choice.

 

[JC220]

Silly question - but with the new springs in there does the bootlid fully open itself at the click of the fob? Both my w220s do not open fully - just barely off the latch. I presume this is the classic WSI

(Weak Spring Itis)

 

[cowboyt]

Yes, it is "WSI"! This was the reason I replaced them. And yes, it opens almost fully now, just a few inches short of it. I remember Dad's car doing exactly the same thing when it was brand new, 21 years ago.

I also now understand why MB improved the design with the facelift cars. With these later cars, there's also a shock absorber inside the spring; they're much like the ones that hold the hood/bonnet up. That shock absorber helps to (gently) push the trunk/boot lid up those last few centimeters so that it actually is open all the way.

 

[wallyp]

Joe - If you look at the photos above, you will see that the rear hook of the springs can be placed in two different places - perhaps moving your springs to the rear-most mount position will increase the tension enough to fully lift the lid.

That doesn't look easy, though, and might be dangerous...

 

[Dave2302]

Not if he packs them with washers first

 

[cowboyt]

He might need slightly thicker washers than what I used in order to do that. When I filled up the springs with washers, it was just long enough to get to the first notch, so that's where I put 'em. Fortunately, though, those springs are not expensive, US $19.98 each. The pre-facelift part number is 220-757-01-29. Remember, this is pre-facelift; the post-facelift cars with the shock absorber are different.