Not sure how many Nm you achieved, so if close like 90 Nm no worries. But this is a mission-critical part. I would lock up the sprocket bolt by passing a piece of wood through the holes or tool that will not damage anything it touches and try to get that torque close to spec.Working my way through this and I have two questions.
1. I set my torque wrench to 100 Nm. When tightening the sprocket bolts I applied a lot of force but the camshaft started turning before my wrench clicked. This happened on both sides. In PanzerPuff's video this doesn't happen. Should I be concerned?
IMHO three degrees is not a big deal. If you want to achieve perfection you would install offset woodruff keys on the cams that will make everything on the mark. Not sure how many degrees you need perhaps others can say.New chain is on. I still need to manually rotate the engine a few times. Both tower timing marks line up perfectly and when they do the crankshaft is now three degrees advanced. Is this good or bad? Anything I need to do? Thanks, Andy
I seem to recall my new chain being about that much out. It was a long time ago, so memory not clear. I do recall it being different depending on how I checked it. I think I used something like Roncallo's tip I posted earlier to make sure the chain was pulled tight. (Wrench both directions). I never changed sprockets. Always mean to, but heck, the car runs greatAfter cranking the engine manually it's settled at five degrees before TDC. I vaguely seem to recall that this is OK because as the chain settles in I will loose a few degrees before TDC. Do I have that right? Otherwise I would need offset woodruff keys for both sprockets.
Thanks Graham!I don't have enough experience with timing chain replacements to comment, but that 12deg ATDC seemed a long way out of whack to me. One tooth, according to manual, is about 18deg.
When you installed the distributor and set it at the mark on casing, did you have the balancer mark at TDC or the cam marks aligned?
Hopefully a real mechanic can help. I am out of my depth here with timing.
Other things of course, would be spark. Wires all seated. Spark at plug when engine is spun. Fuel pressure in rails. Trigger point plug connected. Operate TPS and listen for injectors firing. If you have spark, fuel and injectors firing, then go back to timing. My 2c worth, but I am not a mechanic!
That should have got you close IF the crankshaft and cams were in the same place as they were when you took the photo. If not, then you would set crank at the TDC mark and rotate the distributor so rotor points at the mark on the casing . It is not a very obvious mark, but it is already on the distributor body. Rowdie posted a picture a few days ago. Maybe in a different thread.I forgot to make a mark on the dizzy casing - stupid me - but I did photograph the position of the bolt and when I reinstalled it I put it back in visually the same place.
After running the engine a few times I rechecked this. It's now at two degrees ATDC, so it seems having the tensioner filled with oil does make a difference to the measurement.After installing the chain it was at six degrees ATDC but without oil in the tensioner.