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1974 450SL (US), 2005 SLK200 (UK)
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Discussion Starter #41
If it’s lined up right you shouldn’t have to hit it very hard. Light taps is all I remember it taking. I did put a little oil on the pins to help things along.
Yep! Worked great - this is a great tip - should be in the EGv107.

Andy
 

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1988 560SL
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70 Posts
Wish i could take credit for comming up with something new, but as with most everything, this tip is something i read from someone here when i was studying to do my guides this past summer
 

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1987 560SL
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2,341 Posts
Working my way through this and I have two questions.

1. I set my torque wrench to 100 Nm. When tightening the sprocket bolts I applied a lot of force but the camshaft started turning before my wrench clicked. This happened on both sides. In PanzerPuff's video this doesn't happen. Should I be concerned?
Not sure how many Nm you achieved, so if close like 90 Nm no worries. But this is a mission-critical part. I would lock up the sprocket bolt by passing a piece of wood through the holes or tool that will not damage anything it touches and try to get that torque close to spec.
 

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1974 450SL (US), 2005 SLK200 (UK)
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321 Posts
Discussion Starter #44
New chain is on. I still need to manually rotate the engine a few times. Both tower timing marks line up perfectly and when they do the crankshaft is now three degrees advanced. Is this good or bad? Anything I need to do?

Thanks, Andy
 

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1983 380SL, 2000 S430, 1991 420SEL (retired) - RHD
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5,261 Posts
Rotating the motor manually a few times is good and maybe crank it without spark also just to make sure.
 

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1987 560SL
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2,341 Posts
New chain is on. I still need to manually rotate the engine a few times. Both tower timing marks line up perfectly and when they do the crankshaft is now three degrees advanced. Is this good or bad? Anything I need to do? Thanks, Andy
IMHO three degrees is not a big deal. If you want to achieve perfection you would install offset woodruff keys on the cams that will make everything on the mark. Not sure how many degrees you need perhaps others can say.
 

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1974 450SL (US), 2005 SLK200 (UK)
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321 Posts
Discussion Starter #47
After cranking the engine manually it's settled at five degrees before TDC. I vaguely seem to recall that this is OK because as the chain settles in I will loose a few degrees before TDC. Do I have that right? Otherwise I would need offset woodruff keys for both sprockets.

Thanks, Andy
 

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1974 450SL (US), 2005 SLK200 (UK)
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Discussion Starter #48
After loosing the first tiny e-clip somewhere in the fender I watched this video. I didn't loose another one!


Andy
 

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'72 350SL, '85 300D, '98 E320, '19 Subaru Outback (sold '14 GLK250)
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After cranking the engine manually it's settled at five degrees before TDC. I vaguely seem to recall that this is OK because as the chain settles in I will loose a few degrees before TDC. Do I have that right? Otherwise I would need offset woodruff keys for both sprockets.

Thanks, Andy
I seem to recall my new chain being about that much out. It was a long time ago, so memory not clear. I do recall it being different depending on how I checked it. I think I used something like Roncallo's tip I posted earlier to make sure the chain was pulled tight. (Wrench both directions). I never changed sprockets. Always mean to, but heck, the car runs great :)
 

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1974 450SL (US), 2005 SLK200 (UK)
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Discussion Starter #50 (Edited)
Before I started this job the timing backs on both cams lined up perfectly and when they did the crankshaft was 12 degrees ATDC.

I've now installed a brand new MB tensioner (along with a new IWIS chain). I didn't fill it with oil. I've manually cranked the engine about five times around.

Now the timing marks on both cams still line up perfectly and when they do the crankshaft is at six degrees ATDC.

Hmmm... I can't do roncallo's test because I don't have two 1/2" breaker bars or wrenches for the large sockets needed.

Hopefully this is will be OK.

Thanks, Andy
 

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1974 450SL (US), 2005 SLK200 (UK)
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Discussion Starter #51
Well.... it won't start. :( The starter cranks, no obvious mechanical problem noises, but engine won't get going. I had to replace all the fuel hoses and service the injectors at the same time so I guess it literally could be anything.

Andy
 

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'72 350SL, '85 300D, '98 E320, '19 Subaru Outback (sold '14 GLK250)
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10,145 Posts
I don't have enough experience with timing chain replacements to comment, but that 12deg ATDC seemed a long way out of whack to me. One tooth, according to manual, is about 18deg.

When you installed the distributor and set it at the mark on casing, did you have the balancer mark at TDC or the cam marks aligned?

Hopefully a real mechanic can help. I am out of my depth here with timing.

Other things of course, would be spark. Wires all seated. Spark at plug when engine is spun. Fuel pressure in rails. Trigger point plug connected. Operate TPS and listen for injectors firing. If you have spark, fuel and injectors firing, then go back to timing. My 2c worth, but I am not a mechanic!
 

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Discussion Starter #53
I don't have enough experience with timing chain replacements to comment, but that 12deg ATDC seemed a long way out of whack to me. One tooth, according to manual, is about 18deg.

When you installed the distributor and set it at the mark on casing, did you have the balancer mark at TDC or the cam marks aligned?

Hopefully a real mechanic can help. I am out of my depth here with timing.

Other things of course, would be spark. Wires all seated. Spark at plug when engine is spun. Fuel pressure in rails. Trigger point plug connected. Operate TPS and listen for injectors firing. If you have spark, fuel and injectors firing, then go back to timing. My 2c worth, but I am not a mechanic!
Thanks Graham!

It's alive and I am SO relieved! The only things I have ever done on a car engine before is check the oil level and add washer fluid - no joke.

Some a-hole PO had snapped off the center post on the dizzy cap and decided it would be a great idea to hot glue it back on. So now I will get a complete tune-up kit from AHAZ.

After installing the chain it was at six degrees ATDC but without oil in the tensioner. I forgot to make a mark on the dizzy casing - stupid me - but I did photograph the position of the bolt and when I reinstalled it I put it back in visually the same place.

One thing that is a bit confusing, I tried to start it so many time I thought the engine must be flooded. I took plug #5 out and it was dry.

Andy
 

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'72 350SL, '85 300D, '98 E320, '19 Subaru Outback (sold '14 GLK250)
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10,145 Posts
I forgot to make a mark on the dizzy casing - stupid me - but I did photograph the position of the bolt and when I reinstalled it I put it back in visually the same place.
That should have got you close IF the crankshaft and cams were in the same place as they were when you took the photo. If not, then you would set crank at the TDC mark and rotate the distributor so rotor points at the mark on the casing . It is not a very obvious mark, but it is already on the distributor body. Rowdie posted a picture a few days ago. Maybe in a different thread.

Next you will have to setup the timing. Do you have a timing light? Set timing first at idle with vacuum connected . Then rev engine to 1500 and 3000 rpm and check that you reach something like the numbers in the manual (07.5 500/2). For better performance advance a bit. Maybe TDC at idle with vac or even 5deg BTDC.

You are a brave man to take on that job without much experience! I had a mechanic do mine while I watched. I only installed the tensioner.
 

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1974 450SL (US), 2005 SLK200 (UK)
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Discussion Starter #55
Yes I was careful to only remove the dizzy at TDC and replace at TDC with the rotor mark aligned. I've just bought a timing light so now I can investigate what that currently is. I am taking the approach of assuming that POs did everything wrong, even though the car looks to have been maintained.

Andy
 

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1973 450 SL
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1,886 Posts
Andy,

Well done sir. When I did mine my engine ran poorly because I crossed some spark plug wires. I thought I had ruined the engine until I figured it out - lots of enthusiasts here have learned things the hard way. The timing chain job is a big confidence builder.
 

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1988 560SL
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70 Posts
Congratulations Andy. I second MBGraham in applauding your bravery. I remember when I first got my 560SL with 150k miles I was going to have the indy that did the PPI do the chain, tensioner and guides right away, but I luckily found in the glove box the maintenance booklet where the original owner had kept service records (with stamps from MB dealer), and on the back of one of the pages was handwritten and stamped that chain, tensioner and upper guides had been done at 90k miles. That was still 17 years prior, so I knew I would still need to do the job in the near future, but it gave me some time to build up confidence on other jobs first. It's definitely another level of anxety when you start changing stuff inside the engine (compared to changing components that attach to the engine). Good work!
 

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1974 450SL (US), 2005 SLK200 (UK)
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Discussion Starter #58
These are the steps (the best I can recall) for the strip down on my 1974 D-Jet: Hopefully it helps the next person.

  1. Disconnect battery
  2. Remove air box
  3. Disconnect vac hose from behind coolant reservoir (on mine this crosses over right valve cover)
  4. Drain radiator
  5. Remove coolant overflow hose from reservoir to top of radiator
  6. Disconnect spark plug leads from spark plugs
  7. Disconnect hose from top of radiator
  8. Remove fan shroud bolts
  9. Disconnect breather hose from left valve cover
  10. Disconnect brake booster hose
  11. Disconnect hose and connector from MPS (below brake reservoir)
  12. Disconnect supply and return fuel lines where they enter the engine bay (couldn't remove valve cover unless I did this)
  13. Remove fan and shroud
  14. Remove power steering fluid (turkey baster) and filter
  15. Remove all belts
  16. Disconnect hose from bottom of water pump
  17. Remove power steering pump
  18. Remove alternator
  19. Disconnect vac line from distributor
  20. Remove spark plugs
  21. Set engine to TDC
  22. Remove distributor (I left green wire connected - put distributor on top of engine)
  23. Remove both valve covers
Andy
 

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Discussion Starter #59
After installing the chain it was at six degrees ATDC but without oil in the tensioner.
After running the engine a few times I rechecked this. It's now at two degrees ATDC, so it seems having the tensioner filled with oil does make a difference to the measurement.

Andy
 
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