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I know but I asked you and you said you had a shop do it... Im going to be doing this my self and i would like to do it on the drive way... I have jacks and jack stands etc, etc... wondering if I should drive to my friends shop and use his lift and whether its even necessary to drop frame out completely... my shocks are good

why did you change out the bushings?
 

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My bushes and mounts were completely broken due to which car was dropped from the rear and car was also a bit hard on bumps....so i changed them

I think doing it by yourself on your driveway would be a very difficult task and it can invite extra load on you....as far as i know, you need to take frame out for bush and mount replacements and for that your car needs to be on jack stands on both the sides with proper height....if you can take care of these things by yourself than well and good otherwise i ll suggest you to have hands of some expert and using lift will ease out things for you

Here, in my country labor is very cheap and even some parts so i dont try doing these things by myself

Regards,

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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Good day Gents,

I wanted to know what is the feedback from those who replaced front / rear sub frame bushing ?
How much of a difference did the investment make ?
Could you have diaganosed any differently ?

Lastly, Does any one has the bush puller && insert tool around ?

I'm willing to purchase ... please let me know.

Thanks && Best Regards
 

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To revive this thread...

I just brought back both front and rear bushes for the rear subframe (for the second time). This makes the third time I've dropped the subframe.

The most recent ones were Mercedes p/n A 1403508708 (I bought from ECS tuning. They were listed for an S500, as they didn't list one for an S600). The first ones I bought from Pelican ( Brand: Febi Bilstein Part #: 210-350-59-08-M36) were also too small.

The replacement ones measure about 3 1/2 inches in diameter. The existing ones measure about 4 1/2 inches (I'll know more precisely when I find the bugger that stole my digital calipers!).

The rear subframe bushes I bought from Pelican Parts does not fit (as the ones from FCP Euro did not fit either). I've attached a photo of the existing one I removed and the new one.

Does anyone know the part numbers for the rear bushes? This is getting rather old buying new bushes, then carrying them overseas, dropping the rear subframe, only to find out they don't fit.

I'm headed stateside again in a few weeks, and I would REALLY like to put this issue to bed.

Cheers
 

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Alright, I think I'm getting somewhere.

More searching in the forum yielded a pn: 140-350-3041

This crosses to pn's:

MEYLE 014 035 0019
FEBI BILSTEIN 22679
LEMFORDER 11007
LEMFORDER 1100701
MERCEDES-BENZ 1403503041
MERCEDES-BENZ 1403508608
RUVILLE 985125
SWAG 10922679
VAICO V307270

But most all my internet searches yield companies in the UK selling these.

Sources in the US (other than Pelican and Autohauz)? I find that mboemparts.com has them, but they can't ship to an address that I can use.

Cheers
 

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I only ending up doing the front rear ones on my car but that Meyle part number above was the same one i was going to use. I got mine from the UK also.
 

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Is removal of the sub-frame required or not to replace the carrier bushings (front and or rear) if one utilized the the Baum Tool "#B140-0333 (same as 140-589-03-33-00)" e.g. can one obtain enough clearance to utilize the tool without the removal of the subframes? Can anyone "Confirm" by first hand experience?

Seth
 

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can one obtain enough clearance to utilize the tool without the removal of the subframes? Can anyone "Confirm" by first hand experience?
Seth:
Carrier = hub, right? Addressed many times on BW and doesn't require subframe work.

Did you mean differential support bushes? If so, I can confirm only what I've seen on my v12 coupe:
- Driver side is doable (very tight but doable).
- Passenger side -- ABSOLUTELY NOT -- subframe must be dropped.

Lots of pictures here (starting from post #12)

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w140-s-class/2770825-two-years-wrenching-untold-stories-garage-4.html#post15558817

Some other discussion in post #94 and #95.

Good luck,
Steve
 

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Per WIS Instructions....Carriers Don't Need to be Removed

WIS instruction
According the the WIS Procedures seem all the diagrams show the removal and replacement of front and rear carrier bushing being completed without removing the subframe (carrier) from the vehicle. Assuming you purchase the dedicated tool as discussed for ~$300. Can we all agree on that?

Seth
 

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Seth,

Having just done this last week, I can say with certainty that you do NOT have to drop the entire subframe.

Each mount has a metal base encapsulated by rubber. I soaked each mount in the car with dishwashing liquid for 2 days before I did the actual work.

I lowered one side at a time. The front has to be lowered more than the rear. The mounts on the front come out from the top of the subframe. The mounts on the rear come out from the bottom.

I have read that the factory tool doesn't work all that well. I used an air hammer and a large hammer/chisel. I also used a bottle jack and a block of wood as a spacer. As in:

For the front mount:

- Remove the bolt for the front mount while supporting the car on jack stands
- If the frame does not drop about 5 inches, use a large pry bar
- Place the block of wood between the body and the subframe
- Place the bottle jack underneath the metal center of the mount
- Apply pressure with the jack. This is mainly to keep tension on the mount. I will most likely NOT remove it from the subframe
- Work with an air hammer or large hammer/chisel from the bottom. The impact is what moves the mount in the frame. Every bit you move it makes it easier, as there is less rubber material rubbing on the subframe mount

Moving to the rear mount:

- Use a jackstand or a bottle jack to support the subframe just inboard of the mount
- Use the wood block to space the body from the frame. This gives you working room from the top
- Use an air hammer or hammer/chisel from the too. For this one, there is no constant pressure from a bottle jack. Impact does all the work

If this doesn't work for you, my alternative would have been to have used a right angle drill to drill out most of the mount rubber material; the use a sawzall for move the center portion of the mount. Then hammer/chisel to remove the outer ring of the mount. I'm glad I didn't have to do that, else the car would be undrivable for several months before I come back with the proper rear mounts.

My rears actually came out easier than the fronts. And of course, the new rears that I carried back to Uganda didn't fit, so I put the orginal ones back in. I'm hoping next time they will come out a bit easier. I greased the mounts around the perimeter.

All in all, it took two days to complete the job. While not technically difficult, this job required much more physical effort then removing the exhaust or the transmission. It has been the most tiring experience to date on the car. And there were two of us taking turns hammering away.

I was going to drop the entire subframe, and then reseal the differential and replace the diff mounts after doing the mounts. But after Steve's experience, and seeing how my seals were not leaking and the mounts looked ok, I decided to give that approach a pass.

Also, from what I read and the conditions on my car, the front mounts are much more likely to be cracked than the rear ones.

As to the results: the car is much more stable at speed. Esp over uneven roads.

Cheers
 

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Haven't looked up the tool but the subframe doesn't have to be removed, just lowered.

The rear front bushings come out and press in from the top, so due to this stupid MB design i couldn't use my puller. The front set (steel casing) were a pita to remove with no special tools. Luckily the rear set come out from the bottom and appear much easier to remove and replace as they come out from the bottom.
 

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As a further note, there seems to be two different (possibly 3) mounts being discussed here.

- The subframe mounts at the outside of the car that attaches the body to the subframe
- The differential mounts that hang the diff in the subframe
- The bushes that mount the axle carrier to the control arms.

My discussion is about the first set of mounts (which is where this thread started)

Steve's response is about the second set of mounts (and about the third).

At this point, I have done the first and the third mounts. That's enough for this year. Maybe in 2018 I'll have the energy to tackle the second set of mounts.

My ultimate goal is to ship the car to the Pacific Northwest with my other items when I make the big move back stateside. As such, I want to do as much of the heavy mechanical work over here, as my mechanics costs me $15 a day.

Cheers
 

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As I was interested in the removal and replacement of the subframe mounts at the outside of the car that attaches the body to the subframe...my questions was answered. Thanks much

Seth
 
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