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Well, I'm not a master mechanic, but it's an easy process. You have a 111 engine, so it's the same as my car with few extra bits.

First, you will need proper tools, this job will require:

-1/2" ratchet
-1/2" to 3/8" adapter,
-a long extension (about 8" or 20cm long would be fine.)
-spark plug socket (it's elongated with a rubber thing inside)
-Phillips screw driver
-Metric combination wrench to disconnect the battery.

-When you go to the parts store, ask for plugs that fit your car, and then ask for a plug socket that fits. Also do this for the combination wrench.

-You will need an Allen wrench to remove the red plug cover.
I would advise you to get an aprox. 10piece set with the extended handles. (Be sure to get the metric size set)

Unlike some of the crazy expensive "specialized" tools, these are simple ones that every DIY mechanic needs. You don’t have to buy brand name if you are short on money. Generic brands like "Tool shop", "Stanley", and etc will work just fine for simple jobs.

First, open the trunk, and disconnect the battery at the negative terminal. Be careful, and take it off at the post, not at the body connection. You can wrap the combination wrench in electrical tape to be extra safe.

Open the bonnet, then put it into the full vertical position, (there are special tabs on the hinges that you need to pull to the side, driver's side first.)

After that, remove the intake tube in the middle. Use the screw driver to loosen the clamps, and disconnect it from the MAF on one side, and the throttle body on the other side.
Take off the red center panel thing.

You will see ignition wires. These need to come out, but they are labeled on the wire part, so that's easy. They pop off, then you can take the socket/extension and put it in there.

Remember: lefty Lucy, righty tighty! :D

Take plugs out, then disconnect the ratchet from the extension and socket. Pop the new plug in the socket, and hand tighten the plugs back in. After they are tightened, use the ratchet to tighten them down to full spec. Don’t go TOO tight through, just to the point that the washer feels like it's fully compressed between the plug and the valve cover.

Pop the wires back on, the #1 cylinder is the closest to the front, and the wires SHOULD have labels like 1,2,3,4 on them. Put back on the red cover, tighten the bolts, and proceed to put on the intake tube. This can be a bit of a bitch to do, so inspect it to see how it all goes back together. Pretty simple, really.

After that you are pretty much done! I hope this helped.:thumbsup:

EDIT: I wrote this with the mind that you may possibly not know what you are doing, so please dont feel like I'm trying to put you down or anything, ok?

12 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Hey thanks so it all taken care of and man the car is a real screamer now...Ive had the car for about a year and the plugs were toasted...never checked them before. It had a really rough idle in drive only and this helped quite a bit but still has a slight vibrating idle while in drive....not sure what to do to remedy this. In Park the idle is smooth as silk. I put in a new transmission computer a few months back and it got rid of all vibration but it is back...although much less than before since I changed the plugs. Could it be a motor mount?? Any suggestions would be great. Again thanks for the walk through on the spark plugs!
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