No

 

no for jacking on the oil pan or no to engine mounts on both sides not being the same

 

I replaced my mounts on my E320 by putting the car on jack stands. Then I used a piece of carpet wrapped around a 4x4 and jacked it by the oil pan ONLY HIGH ENOUGH to remove the mounts. I’m not sure if your mounts are going to be the same or not. Mine appeared to be the same and I bought them from autohaus az. Hope this helps.

 

Tips for motor mount replacement?

Last weekend I put the car up on the lift and I tried changing the motor mounts. I jacked it underneath with a heavy duty transmission jack and it started to pick up the car. I'm thinking about just using a set of race ramps and using a floor jack to pick up the engine where the manual suggests...

www.benzworld.org

 

Thanks are mounts both same each side

 

Use a sturdy block of wood between the jack and oil pan, this will distribute the load/force when you slightly lift the engine.

 

Agreed you can safely lift the motor by the oil pan as long as you use a sturdy piece of wood large enough to spread the load. I used a 2 inch thick roughly 8 x 8 inch block of wood on my 6.9 with no issues. Make sure you disconnect the fan shroud and the throttle linkage at the firewall to avoid damage.

 

thanks for the tip did not know the throttle cable had to be disconnected anyone please confirm the mounts are same each side before i strip it down and find out i have inly one side

 

Did you check the part numbers? If the mounts are the same, the part numbers will be, too.

 

i purchased the mounts a few months back assuming both were the same doing a full underneath rebuild and cant remember if they were the same or different seems to be differing opinions when doing a little research

 

 

Wood works for jacking on the pan just make sure it is long enough to go across the whole pan so the lifting force is applied close to the pan bolts.
Also make sure you pick out all the gunk out of the hex heads before putting in the allen wrench or socket . The little shocks can be reused if they still dampen , the rubber is usually junk though and should be replaced.
These motor mounts are to soft in my opinion and collapse to quickly. Some fill the mounts with silicone to make them more robust.

 

removed the mounts that was hard work
can i just grease the bolts with antiseize or should i use threadlock

 

I would not use any kind of Loctite on these bolts, assuming you mean the 2x smaller hex bolts holding the mount to the frame as well as the large one bolting the mount to the engine. Anti seize a good idea as these can be a prick of a time to get loose, so at least next time it will be easier. Remember to torque to spec, at least the large main bolt from memory I think is 75nm.

 

thanks i just used ant seize grease, the small allen head bolts a tightened as much as i could i will retorqure the main bolt tomorrow again as did not have torque value with me just tightened it well

the engine mounts fell out in two pieces

any idea how to tell if the engine mount shocks are any good,when removed they had resistance each way but did not push back out when pushed all the way in or if they did they were very slow in movement

 

Not a good idea to jack up the motor on the oil pan even on a steel oil pan unless you really know what you are doing. You definitely CANNOT do that with an '86-87 300 diesel 126 because that has an aluminum oil pan and they will crack.

 

for anyone doing this jiob i can confirm the mounts were both the same part number if the part numbers do vary at mercedes then there must be a material difference but physically the units are the same

the advice the remove the throttle cable bar was a must or else it would have bent whilst lifting up the engine