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00 E320 4MATIC
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
:)Well, today I pulled out and put back the CPS. 1st time doing this, it took around 30 minutes. People with big or fat hand will have a problem to go with their arm and hand to location of the CPS.
Enough talk, let's do some written instruction.:)

1. pic - CPS and screw that hold in the place sensor
2. pic - tool I used for the screw. In this case I used 1/4 socket. Originally, the screw is 8 star, not tighten so much at all.
3. pic -dislocating the blue cable from the cable holder.
4 - 5 pics - disconnecting the hose. There's a 2 spring clips you need to press it before pulling out the hose. The pic 4, with yellow point arrows, one arrow is pointing to the spring clip, another arrow is the hose. those 2 clips are on 0 and 180 degree of the circle. Press them to get feelings of it.

NOTE: Before do anything 1st locate the sensor using flash light. The sensor is on transmission belly, not engine block.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
More pics.


1.pic - showing position of my hand/fingers pressing these clips and pulling out the hose.
2-3. pic - just gently pull out hose. The pic 3. with red arrow point, you already should recognize the hose from previous pics.:)
4-5. pic - gently pull out hose from the place. Either way you can do it, from the firewall side or engine side.Anyway the hose is short, just need to disconnect one side. On the pic 4, I have disconnected the hose from the engine side.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
...and more pics.

1. pic - another hose dislocation from the holder.
2. pic - shows everything done so far with hose dislocations and disconnections. Red pointer shows CPS elec. connector. In this case, this CPS has only one clip.
3-4 pic - again elec. connector of the CPS. Red pointer, one for connector, another one is cable of the connector. Following that cable with your fingers you can reach the CPS location.
5. pic - position of my hand/arm. That is my right arm and I stand in front of the right car corner. Find the best position for yourself. There's no rules with this.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
...pics, pics...

1-2 pic - dislocating the connector of the blue cable and as well the cable from the holder.
3. pic -turning that cable holder to the side so it won't be on your arm way to down.
4. pic - my arm is down and I have access to the CPS.

NOTE: Do not rush, do not do anything out of your control. There's nothing to break down, unless you'll use to much unnecessary force. Good luck to anyone. Hopefully this will help a little bit.
 

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2006 S350;2016 GLC 300
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In thread #2, I believe pics #4 and #5 are the vacuum hose/connectors that run to the air bladder and then to the vacuum valve block that is used to control the climate control flap actuators.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
In thread #2, I believe pics #4 and #5 are the vacuum hose/connectors that run to the air bladder and then to the vacuum valve block that is used to control the climate control flap actuators.
Todd,
I do not know. Did not pay attention what hose is for, just look the best way to make room for my hand and arm to get down to the sensor location. Someone with better mechanical background could confirm.:surrender:
 

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2006 S350;2016 GLC 300
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Totally get it. There's a lot back there. It's hard to understand what hose/line does what. I'm in the process of documenting my intake manifold removal I did this past weekend along with documentation of some of the hoses/lines and where they go. EPC doesn't do a very good job at that. Hopefully, someone in the future can leverage the information to make their repair a bit easier and faster.
 

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1998 Mercedes E320
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266 Posts
I am lost

So where exactly is this CPS? I even removed the coil pack. I saw the blue cable but on the 4th picture, you just pulled that CPS cable out of nowhere? Are you telling me I have to get my hand down there somewhere and just start pressing some kind of clip to get that CPS to the surface?
 

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2008 E350 110k, 2000 E320 143k, 1983 380SEC 240k
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949 Posts
This from EPC gives you some orientation. The CPS is no. 5 at the rear left, about 10 o'clock.
 

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2000 E320 Sedan
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5 Posts
V-6 CPS Replacement - Thank You Earthwonder

Thanks, Earthwonder.

Really nice job on DIY.

This is one I'm going to find much easier because of the tima and care you took.

THANKS!

- Grey Eagle:thumbsup:
 

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1999 MB E320 - Brilliant Silver/Ash 135K
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242 Posts
thanks - directed my brother to the STICKYs on CPS. then walked to dog over to his house with the E8 socket and swapped this out in 15 mins.
Raymond - did you disconnect the sensor wire and then remove the sensor, or, remove the bolt and connect the new sensor to the new wire top side where you can see how the clip works and then reinsert?

I found the sensor and can get my hands on it but the locking tabs are at 180 deg (one points fore and one aft) and I can't figure out how they unlock. looks like it would be easier to remove the bolt, bring the unit up where I can see it better, reinsert the new sensor then reinstall.

Of course this thwarts my plan to disconnect and see the type of connection so I order the correct sensor for my car.
 

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99 E320
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5,105 Posts
good question...which i thought about yesterday as well, but it was too hot
and I just wanted to nap on the carpet with the dog.

what i wondered was whether we had a photo of the wired connection (!)
that would help folks who had to do this by feel and 'guide' their fingers to the
proper orientation before pressing on the latches. (havent' plowed through
all the DIY CPS photos yet today)

i placed the new CPS on the manifold. with my right hand, i reached down and
felt for the flat end vs the oval end. having satisfied myself with the CPS
orientation, i then proceeded to the torx fastener and knew it was in the 6 o'clock
position. I was lucky and was able to unplug it first before navigating and
positioning the E8 onto the fastener.

i had the E8 socket at the end of a spring-steel-flex socket extension and
that worked on the first try. I also have u-joint and solid extension for the
ratchet but didn't need it.

sitting here at work, I thought that the flats on the female end of the CPS
were oriented up and down (12 and 6 o'clock) when I'm facing and bent over
the driver/left fender.

 

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1999 MB E320 - Brilliant Silver/Ash 135K
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I've scoured the stickies and youtube more times than I care to remember and some of the pictures come close but not quite close enough to show how the connection works. The one I did on my son's Nissan was a bear b/c of the release mechanism (you had to press and pull the locking tabs in the opposite direction that the connector needed to come off the CPS). I unbolted the sensor, pulled it up where I could see it, switched out the parts and then reinstalled by feel.

On the Benz: When I'm facing and bent over the driver's side fender, looking straight down at the CPS, the flats do indeed appear to be at 12 and 6 (the fastener bolt is also at 6 but below the CPS). The bottom flat has a groove on it like there might be a tab there (the diagram at Autohausz shows one with a single tab and one with two tabs on either side, presumably where the locking occurs). The top is "flat". One of the latches faces the firewall at 3 o'clock and the other the manifold at 9 o'clock. It is really difficult to get to the 0900 one and probably why I can't get the wire to release.

Anyway, I really appreciate your help and insight. I'm knocking off for the day as SWMBO and I are striking out on vacation tomorrow. I'm going to have another go at it next weekend.

The Neiko tool looks nifty, I might just have to get one if for no other reason than to say I have one.:thumbsup:
 

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2002 E320 4MATIC Wagon 151,000 miles
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3 Posts
Dearest IFS,

I Effing LOVE you! Thank you for the incredible posts with photos. YOU EFFING ROCK!

Forever indebted,

flpneo
 

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1999 E320 206,230 miles
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12 Posts
CPS

Thanks for all your pictures and instructions for removing the Crank Position Sensor. I've run into a problem removing the old one. It's stuck! I removed the torx bolt and the wire but I'm afraid to use too much force to remove the cps from the hole for fear of breaking it and then having the car towed to the dealer or some such place.
Any thoughts?

Joe
 
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