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1999 E320 190,000 miles sold 97 E320 288,000
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64 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Anyone try using the "Replacement" brand of rear window regulator. Much cheaper than usual (still more than Uro - which I don't want to try).
 

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E320/E250 Bluetec Ford F350 6.7l
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35,891 Posts
We do have several topics about regulators. The best way so far was using "green thing" that cost $7 when we started using them and $12 last price posted.
 

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Registered
1999 E320 190,000 miles sold 97 E320 288,000
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64 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the reply.

i have read the stickies and agree that the green slider is probably the best repair. But it now cost $12 dollars and I can get a replacement regulator for $35 (uro) or $41 (replacement). I do not have a rivet gun and my drill is not the best either - also I have fat fingers :). So for $25 dollars I probably save myself a lot of pain. And I think I can get the regulator this weekend from a parts store and get it done.

Anybody have good luck with the cheap regulator units?
 

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2001 E320 wagon
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733 Posts
I used the cheaper replacement regulator from autohauz about $50 a year or so ago.
been in for a year now and no problems although its usually just me in the car so the rear windows get very little use unless I play with them. I heard the cable come off the wheel when it broke so I bought the new regulator rather than mess about with the clip repair.
the thread is here
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210-e-class/1607631-finally-installed-new-rear-regulator.html
I'm quite happy I went with the replacement. remember you do need a rivet gun to replace the regulator as it is riveted to the door - you will have to buy one - and mine had a 4mm rivet not the usual 3mm rivet
cheers
Barri
 

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W210 Moderator
99 E320
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4,973 Posts
those wishing to forego the rivets upon assembly can do just fine using machine
screws, washers and nuts which are sometimes already on hand in a coffee can
in one's garage. probably wouldn't hurt to put a dab of blue Loctite, too.
 

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E320/E250 Bluetec Ford F350 6.7l
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35,891 Posts
Even the expensive regulators are reported breaking while I had the only green slider failure reported on this forum. I can blame the failure on overstressing the main rivet on the slider. New slider comes with machine bolt and self locking nut to avoid the situation I did the first time.
Bottom line - green thing gives the best guarantee that you will not have to do the job in few months.
I used screws on bottom of the regulator, but 2 upper ones were too hard to access behind, so I put rivets there.
 

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Registered
1999 E320 190,000 miles sold 97 E320 288,000
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64 Posts
Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
OK, you have convinced me. I will replace the green slider next weekend (ordering it today). And with the money I saved I get to buy a rivet tool - I have always wanted one :)
 

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'01-E320 & 02-ST2
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31,633 Posts
OK, you have convinced me. I will replace the green slider next weekend (ordering it today). And with the money I saved I get to buy a rivet tool - I have always wanted one :)
Buy the big one at Harbor Freight for $22 or you will be hating life. ;)

The job is pretty easy unless the cable is damaged, but that doesn't seem to be all that common.

Good luck.
 

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E320/E250 Bluetec Ford F350 6.7l
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35,891 Posts
I did not made clear description about my last invention.
When you get green slider, you will have to drill the main rivet out. I fit a machine screw into the hole in the plastic and enlarged the hole in the plate to match the size. This way inserted screw is not putting any side stress on the hole like rivet does.
The original cables are very high quality. I had mine tangled very badly twice, yet they stretch back to straight shape.
The only part of the job that require some good hands is pushing the springs into the slider. That is where the metal insert gets handy.
 

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Registered
1999 E55, 2001 E320, 1990 560 SEC, 2004 ML350, 2001 ML55, 1995 S500, 1998 SL500, 2010 E550 Sport zoo
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7,035 Posts
what I do

Personally, my rear regulators always get screwed up more than replacing the "green thing" - and the entire China made mechanism is close to MB OE quality at about $40 on eBay shipped.

See my quickie pictorial from some time ago - quick shots - for 1 20 minute pull - took me 4 months to get around putting the new one back in.

I use machine screws and replace the rivets - the OR rivets are steel - and junky aluminum rivet guns always give out on me - so for me replacement machine screws/nuts are easier.

Keep the beat !
 

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