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1999 ML430
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Does anybody else get the same feeling that following this thread is like going down a long, dark, never-ending tunnel ?
 

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2005 ml 350 VIN 4JGAB57E25A548558
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178 Posts
Discussion Starter #202
I cant get this that shifter module connector disconnected. I would order a new one if I knew it was under 100 bucks, although with my luck it wouldnt help me disconnect it and I would still be in the same situation!

Oh yeah, probably feels that way to the guy making you follow it. Thats why he is doing it! Toughen up. You gotta believe you can do what you want, in order to do it! I would say grow a pair, but its probably against the rules here. And I really need DrX.

Thanks for your help!
 

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2002 ML320, 2003 A160, 2002 ML500, 2018 GLS350d
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Skip inspecting the shifter module connection.

Turn ignition switch to position 2.

Apply foot to brake pedal, move shifter into D and back to P while watching gear display on instrument cluster (adjacent to clock).

Report your findings.
 

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2005 ml 350 VIN 4JGAB57E25A548558
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Discussion Starter #204
Skip inspecting the shifter module connection.

Turn ignition switch to position 2.

Apply foot to brake pedal, move shifter into D and back to P while watching gear display on instrument cluster (adjacent to clock).

Report your findings.
Ok. You just saved me $50! I was going to pay a guy who works at repair shop here to take the connection apart. I will do exactly the above and film it. I said exactly even though I want to put the key in also! I wont!!!
Thank You DrX. If you were charging, I believe I would owe you everything I will earn this month. And some!!
 

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If you get the gear indicator working, then you can proceed to the start attempt as instructed previously. Shifter in Park, key turned in ignition lock, ignition switch turned to position 3 (start) using metal disk and spindle pushed inwards.

Post a video if you like.
 

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2005 ml 350 VIN 4JGAB57E25A548558
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Discussion Starter #206
If you get the gear indicator working, then you can proceed to the start attempt as instructed previously. Shifter in Park, key turned in ignition lock, ignition switch turned to position 3 (start) using metal disk and spindle pushed inwards.

Post a video if you like.
Thanks for helping me. Ok, I thought I would need someone to help with the video, but I believe I can do it myself. I have to as no matter who I have asked to do it was telling me how they could fix it and asking 1000 questions. This was all on the walk to the car. Needless to say I told all of them never mind. Learned my lesson. Im sure they mean well, but they get in there and do what I have been doing prior to you helping me. Anything that comes to mind! But they dont usually tell me what they have done!

I will post the video as soon as I do it tomorrow.


Thank you again
 

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2005 ml 350 VIN 4JGAB57E25A548558
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Discussion Starter #207
If you get the gear indicator working, then you can proceed to the start attempt as instructed previously. Shifter in Park, key turned in ignition lock, ignition switch turned to position 3 (start) using metal disk and spindle pushed inwards.

Post a video if you like.
Well I read here most of the night and been in the truck for last 4 hours.

I got the shifter module connector off, inspected it, and used a thin paint brush to remove debris.

I made the video, although it is not very telling to me. I put foot on brake and moved shifter only to neutral. I never went to drive. I have to go out later and do it after I charge the battery again. It said 12.53 out in car. But when I got upstairs to apartment, it said 12.72?

I got the dashboard gear indicator to register a P but only with key inserted and turned all the way. Along with inserting spindle and gear assembly and then pushing and turning to position 2.

I did this 2 times. 1st time with key just inserted, NOT turned in cylinder. No error, no crank and no P. When I turned key all the way, then turned switch, it went to P until I returned the switch back to position 0.

I will do this again and pay better attention. The neighborhood kids will be home in 4 hours. I will get one to take the video if instructed to .

Also, around a year ago, the front lighter stopped working. I replaced the F-2 15A fuse and as soon as I started up, blew out. A neighbor talked me into using a 20, then a 25. They all blew immediately and I did not return any fuse in its place. Well today I decided to check all the fuses in the passenger footwell. The F-6 20A front 12v socket was blown. It hasnt worked in 6 months, but I never checked it before. Dont know if it means anything or not.

I have attached pics. The video, you can only see the dash, although I havent looked at it on a bigger screen yet, is here:
. I will take a better one this afternoon when I attempt to get the P on dashboard without turning the switch and key to start position. 20200310_094128.jpg 20200310_095759.jpg 20200310_095801.jpg 20200310_094314.jpg 20200310_102026.jpg 20200310_101959.jpg 20200310_094314.jpg 20200310_103740.jpg 20200310_104652(0).jpg

Thank you DrX
 

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What about the start attempt?
If you get the gear indicator working, then you can proceed to the start attempt as instructed previously.
“P” indication won’t appear on instrument cluster until ignition is on (position 2). Because you need power to the shifter module.

In position 0, power is only running clock and helping odometer to remember mileage (I think).
 

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2005 ml 350 VIN 4JGAB57E25A548558
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Discussion Starter #209
What about the start attempt?


“P” indication won’t appear on instrument cluster until ignition is on (position 2). Because you need power to the shifter module.

In position 0, power is only running clock and helping odometer to remember mileage (I think).
I did 2 tries with brake pushed down. On first attempt I am not sure I went past neutral. Indicator stayed lit, but no letter in it. On second attempt, I had key in cylinder turned all the way before I turned the ignition switch. Thats when I got the P to appear on dashboard. But did not crank.
Battery was 12.53 on that attempt.
It is fully charged now. 13.08. I also have a electric blower I use to clean my computer stuff. Im taking it out and blowing all that debris out of the shifter area. I cleaned it with Q-tips and alcohol, but it is still very caked with dirt and dust, etc.

Im heading out now because in 1 hour the kids get out of school. I will find one to video the next start attempt.

I will check back here before I do. I have been printing almost everything for almost 2 months now!

Thank You DrX
 

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Discussion Starter #210
Ok, I put the battery back. 12.93. Thats after I tightened it, closed the door so the lights went on and locks locked. Then I disconnected it for 5 minutes before tightening the posts up again.

I searched and searched. Maybe I convinced myself by now that I did it, but I feel I disconnected something near the firewall cuz my friend told me to. He wont remember anyway. I cant find it.

But I did for SURE notice that plastic connector under the housing that slides in and goes to the shifter with all the different colors was NOT all the way in. I was touching all the clips and feeling them. I could visibly see from the floor looking up that it was sticking out and not in all the way. I pushed and heard a very distinct click/

Im going to wait, since I cant find anyone around here to take the video.

I will re read the stuff I printed in the meantime.

Thanks DrX.
 

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Im going to wait, since I cant find anyone around here to take the video.
Try putting the video camera in your top pocket, then use your hands to operate the ignition switch.

If it doesn’t fit, jam it under the head restraint, while pushing it down.
 

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Discussion Starter #212
Try putting the video camera in your top pocket, then use your hands to operate the ignition switch.

If it doesn’t fit, jam it under the head restraint, while pushing it down.
I just came in. I used a clamp. you can see the dashboard. I tried it twice and neither time did it crank. I really believe that shifter module cable was not in all the way. Now all the gears that are used show up on cluster.

Here is a link to it. I swore on it, and didnt have a chance to edit it. This is harder than my work! I really only get 3 tries and the battery is then around 12.5. So Im getting a workout carrying that thing upstairs everyday!

video of 1st try

Thanks DrX
 

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I watched the video. You didn’t turn the ignition switch to position 3. Why not??

Stop removing the battery. If you don’t crank the engine, you’re not draining it much.
2623446

That is position 2, with all the warning lights on. You must turn it further clockwise to crank it, all the way clockwise.

(Anyway, well done on the video. Helps us to see exactly what you’re not doing right.)
 

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I watched the video. You didn’t turn the ignition switch to position 3. Why not??

Stop removing the battery. If you don’t crank the engine, you’re not draining it much.
That is position 2, with all the warning lights on. You must turn it further clockwise to crank it, all the way clockwise.
I agree I do not see key (ignition switch) being moved to position 3.
 

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2005 ml 350 VIN 4JGAB57E25A548558
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Discussion Starter #215
I agree I do not see key (ignition switch) being moved to position 3.
What?! I must be gun shy now. I think I broke more things than were originally not working. And I didnt want DrX to abandon me. Im going on there right now and see if it starts.
I kept bringing it in cuz I read somewhere early on here that is has to be 12.6v.

I felt like it was going to start. Took every ounce of wilpower to not use that jumping 30 87 thing.

Ok guys thanks. Im gettin dressed and goin out there now.

Brb

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #216
What?! I must be gun shy now. I think I broke more things than were originally not working. And I didnt want DrX to abandon me. Im going on there right now and see if it starts.
I kept bringing it in cuz I read somewhere early on here that is has to be 12.6v.

I felt like it was going to start. Took every ounce of wilpower to not use that jumping 30 87 thing.

Ok guys thanks. Im gettin dressed and goin out there now.

Brb

Thanks
Aw man. Words cant say how grateful I am to you DrX. Im so happy, I dont even care the ridicule I will receive from my neighbors! And its deserved! You guys were right. Needed to be turned more.
I was just whining to myself before I checked on here.
I was outside or going back and forth to the truck for 10 hours today. And I stayed up last nite and read for 8 hours straight on here. More than I do for work in 3 days!

I figure another 3 weeks to put it back together! Im not going to drive it until Im on my way to the dealership to order more keys.

Thanks again for sticking it out with me DrX.

Heres the video of the awakening!
 

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I wanted to ask 2 things: Is there any type of connector or plug that would be disonnected or removed from the ECU or ECM? I thought I had to reach behind pedals and do this. Probable I just read about it rather than did it.
You can check them but they would not just fall out as with all benz connectors there is a safety catch on them that prevents that.

Yes a pen or small screwdriver will allow you to move the shifter.
 

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Above post was way to late. Posted then after I got a message that there were posts that were not viewed yet would you like to view them?

Weird part was it was not a pre loaded page clicked on the link on a fresh, main w163 page, and I had cleared my history. Sorry for not appearing on topic.
 

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2005 ml 350 VIN 4JGAB57E25A548558
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Discussion Starter #220
Thanks. And it looks like I will still be sticking with it! I reinstalled the disk, switch, and connector. Same thing. Same thing I was doing. Not turning far enough. I thought the new lock cylinder in the car that I ordered was longer than the original tumbler. I still think thats why it is not going any further. The key is not reaching the spindle. I think.

I turned the key to start position 6 to 8 times. Turning all the way back after each. No start errors. But not cranking either.

Im wore out. Im gonna wait to see if DrX suggests anything.

Thannks guys.
 
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