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2005 ml 350 VIN 4JGAB57E25A548558
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Discussion Starter #1
So I followed everybody's advice (thanks all!). Finally got the ignition switch on separately from the connector, second time around. First time I put both on together, but my key didnt turn. So, I did it how you guys said, separately. Took 3 different guys and 2 days!! Key turned with new lock cylinder in but got start error. So I removed it and put old lock cylinder without any wafers ( threw them all away ). Still got the start error. Used a probe and had 12.5v on the white wire with key turned. Did the 30 and 87 jump thing and got it to crank and crank. But didnt start like before. Please correct me if I am wrong, but the igntion switch and lock cylinder only go in 1 way? There is that sideways prong on the igntion switch, so it cannot go in another way. And the lock cylinder will only engage and key will turn putting it in 1 way?
Im at a loss. I only have 1 thing to double check in the morning. Witek I believe said to remove switch and spin metal disk around. If it spins easliy the switch is bad. It wouldnt surprise me if I wrecked it mechanically trying to get it in. Apart from that my friend wants to replace the lock housing assembly. I think it best to have more of a plan or concrete evidence rather than just replace entire car to find problem!
Any suggestions will be appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
 

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2000 ML55 sold馃槩 2013 ML500,馃榿 2015 C250 estate wagon, 1927 Dodge 4 sedan, 1929 Dodge
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So I followed everybody's advice (thanks all!). Finally got the ignition switch on separately from the connector, second time around. First time I put both on together, but my key didnt turn. So, I did it how you guys said, separately. Took 3 different guys and 2 days!! Key turned with new lock cylinder in but got start error. So I removed it and put old lock cylinder without any wafers ( threw them all away ). Still got the start error. Used a probe and had 12.5v on the white wire with key turned. Did the 30 and 87 jump thing and got it to crank and crank. But didnt start like before. Please correct me if I am wrong, but the igntion switch and lock cylinder only go in 1 way? There is that sideways prong on the igntion switch, so it cannot go in another way. And the lock cylinder will only engage and key will turn putting it in 1 way?
Im at a loss. I only have 1 thing to double check in the morning. Witek I believe said to remove switch and spin metal disk around. If it spins easliy the switch is bad. It wouldnt surprise me if I wrecked it mechanically trying to get it in. Apart from that my friend wants to replace the lock housing assembly. I think it best to have more of a plan or concrete evidence rather than just replace entire car to find problem!
Any suggestions will be appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
Did you fit the key sinc ring back on before you tried to start it.


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2005 ml 350 VIN 4JGAB57E25A548558
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83 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
yes i tried with tumbler with no wafers, could have used pen to start and i tried with transponder coil on and key.
 

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Dallas, Texas
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So I followed everybody's advice (thanks all!). Finally got the ignition switch on separately from the connector, second time around. First time I put both on together, but my key didnt turn. So, I did it how you guys said, separately. Took 3 different guys and 2 days!! Key turned with new lock cylinder in but got start error. So I removed it and put old lock cylinder without any wafers ( threw them all away ). Still got the start error. Used a probe and had 12.5v on the white wire with key turned. Did the 30 and 87 jump thing and got it to crank and crank. But didnt start like before. Please correct me if I am wrong, but the igntion switch and lock cylinder only go in 1 way? There is that sideways prong on the igntion switch, so it cannot go in another way. And the lock cylinder will only engage and key will turn putting it in 1 way?
Im at a loss. I only have 1 thing to double check in the morning. Witek I believe said to remove switch and spin metal disk around. If it spins easliy the switch is bad. It wouldnt surprise me if I wrecked it mechanically trying to get it in. Apart from that my friend wants to replace the lock housing assembly. I think it best to have more of a plan or concrete evidence rather than just replace entire car to find problem!
Any suggestions will be appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
Why did you start new thread on this?

Did new lock cylinder come with key?

If you had power on white wire with key in position 3 why did you jump starter relay?

Pictures of all keys you have for this car? Picture of key you are attempting to start with?
 

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2005 ml 350 VIN 4JGAB57E25A548558
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Discussion Starter #5
I thought since I encountered different obstacles, I was required to start new.

Yes new cylinder came with key.

I forgot and thought key could be anyplace when jumping 30 and 87. After, we used a probe stick and there was 12.5 on white wire.

I attempted to start with old key and old tumbler (with 0 wafers in it) and transponder chip taped to coil. I also tried with key that came with new tumbler. Chip still taped to coil. New key and tumbler are in the car, but it is only the skelton key. No mickey mouse or no fob came with it.
allkeysandtransponder.jpg
 

Outstanding Contributor
2002 ML320, 2003 A160, 2002 ML500, 2018 GLS350d
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You must have skimmed over this advice:
Under no circumstances should you mess with a naked transponder chip stuck to the immo coil. Unless you enjoy trips to the dealer and hip pocket neuralgia.
Reassemble the fob with the transponder chip inside, in the blade end. Plug the immo box cable back in, the wires from the EAM.

Turn key to start, while praying.

If you get 鈥渟tart error鈥, get a lift to the dealer with proof of ownership and ID. Order a Mickey Mouse key.
 

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2005 ml 350 VIN 4JGAB57E25A548558
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Discussion Starter #7
ok, i remember seeing that first post about taking that thing out. i wanted no part of that. my friend somehow talked me into this half arsed deal with it taped to coil. i got a list of a few things im gonna do this am. soon as it gets above 20 degrees.

spin the metal disk that the igntion switch attaches to to see if it spins while turning key back and forth. if so, switch is bad again.

clean battery posts, although new battery in august. and over 13v had on slow charger overnite. BUT, i failed to mention when we were trying to start it, with my alley mechanic friend, it seemed as though there was a surge and then everything went dark. battery prior was 12.61. after was only 11.81. I immediately got him away from it and removed batter and took in house.

I have the old key and that we took chip out of and taped to coil. but that is a mickey mouse key i got from dealership and it goes to tumbler that i removed all the wafers to. still do prior instructions?
 

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2002 ML320, 2003 A160, 2002 ML500, 2018 GLS350d
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If you are trying to start using the old fob in the photo, with the transponder chip taped to the coil, your error is trying to start with 2 transponder chips. Because there鈥檚 one inside the fob.

Charge the battery. Remove the chip taped to the coil. Try with the old fob alone.

You never said the old fob gave you start error.
 

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2005 ml 350 VIN 4JGAB57E25A548558
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Discussion Starter #9
the old fob and key was getting worn out so i bought 2 mickey mouse keys from the dealer. They are seen in the pic. 1 is short, broke off. Thats the one my friend operated on and removed the chip.
Frustration has set it. 3 hours out there and all I managed to do is put the chip back in the key, put the new tumbler into the housing properly. And that is all. Im not sure if I put the round metal disk in with the ignition switch, or separately? I know if I want to retest the ignition switch, I should put in independently. Well I couldnt do it either way. Managed to snap off 1 of the tabs on the new ignition switch. I just cant accept that I contort my body, struggle, and still cant get it in.
 

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2002 ML320, 2003 A160, 2002 ML500, 2018 GLS350d
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Don鈥檛 retest the ignition switch. It鈥檚 obviously working. You got short crank, right?

Leave it alone before you break it again.

Repair the lock. Put the wafers back in. They stop you pulling out the key while the car is running. If you start the engine, remove the key and drive off, your transponder chip will be bricked. Or If the key falls out.

Each wafer has a tiny spring. If you don鈥檛 put them all back in, the wafers will get stuck and jam the key. If you can鈥檛 find all 10 springs, leave out a wafer or 2.
 

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99 ML430, 00 ML320, 05 E500 4matic Wagon
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You can get a new cut by the dealer just for the fob and it is not pricey. I have had two done with no issues at all.
 

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2005 ml 350 VIN 4JGAB57E25A548558
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Discussion Starter #12
ok went for bike ride. No more frustration. No, I have no crank, only silence and read start error. Only get crank when I put that jumper cable in 30 and 87 under K8.
I will be more than a few short. Just checked I got 5. And I bent them taking them out. Also, they go to original tumbler, but that tumbler matches them 2 mickey mouse keys I got from dealership. 1 key I put the chip back into, the short key in picture.
When I did the jump thing the first time, I rubber banded my keys to wiper stalk and drove over 70 miles. Was unclear and now realize that was just for diagnosing.
So when I try this, the metal disk goes with ignition switch at same time into housing? And is lock cylinder already in? I think so, as I was told to put key into position 1 when doing any repairs to ignition.
thanks for no bailing on me. I changed the radiator, ac compressor, receiver, dryer, power steering reservoiir and O ring, all other maintence, outer end tie rod. This is by FAR the most difficult for me.
 

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2005 ml 350 VIN 4JGAB57E25A548558
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Discussion Starter #13
If you are trying to start using the old fob in the photo, with the transponder chip taped to the coil, your error is trying to start with 2 transponder chips. Because there鈥檚 one inside the fob.

Charge the battery. Remove the chip taped to the coil. Try with the old fob alone.

You never said the old fob gave you start error.
No, I never used the old fob for over a year. The key attached to it wouldnt open the door anymore. Got worse and worse, thats when I went to dealership and got the 2 mickeys. I just put it in pic cuz Witek said he wanted to see all my keys. I did use the key to jiggle a few times when tumbler was going out, but it never got it started. Only the mickeys work.
 

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ok went for bike ride. No more frustration. No, I have no crank, only silence and read start error. Only get crank when I put that jumper cable in 30 and 87 under K8.
I will be more than a few short. Just checked I got 5. And I bent them taking them out. Also, they go to original tumbler, but that tumbler matches them 2 mickey mouse keys I got from dealership. 1 key I put the chip back into, the short key in picture.
When I did the jump thing the first time, I rubber banded my keys to wiper stalk and drove over 70 miles. Was unclear and now realize that was just for diagnosing.
So when I try this, the metal disk goes with ignition switch at same time into housing? And is lock cylinder already in? I think so, as I was told to put key into position 1 when doing any repairs to ignition.
thanks for no bailing on me. I changed the radiator, ac compressor, receiver, dryer, power steering reservoiir and O ring, all other maintence, outer end tie rod. This is by FAR the most difficult for me.
Metal disc that drives ignition switch should have never come out off steering lock. Take picture of it.
 

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2005 ml 350 VIN 4JGAB57E25A548558
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Discussion Starter #15
Metal disc that drives ignition switch should have never come out off steering lock. Take picture of it.
I was so razzled, I did not even realize no one said that the disk comes out til you just said it.
switchanddisk.jpg
ignitionswitchanddisk2.jpg
 

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I was so razzled, I did not even realize no one said that the disk comes out til you just said it.
Put new ignition switch into connector and operate it with flat blade screwdriver. Position 0-3. Relay k8 back in its place.
 

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2005 ml 350 VIN 4JGAB57E25A548558
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Discussion Starter #18
I hope you are putting that relay back in attempt to crank.
Its back in its spot. I removed yesterday and cranked twice, then checked voltage on battery and brought it in to slow charge. Im going to go put it in now. I was waiting cuz im not sure about this old tumbler. I know the keys that have the chips match that tumbler, but i really jazzed up the wafers and only have 5 in. Ill go put battery in a few minutes.
 

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Its back in its spot. I removed yesterday and cranked twice, then checked voltage on battery and brought it in to slow charge. Im going to go put it in now. I was waiting cuz im not sure about this old tumbler. I know the keys that have the chips match that tumbler, but i really jazzed up the wafers and only have 5 in. Ill go put battery in a few minutes.
Why not use new lock cylinder?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I dont think I was clear when I included it in the pic of all my keys you wanted to see. DrX may have thought I was using it. Although, if I do use new lock cylinder, I will have to tape a key to the coil or near it, as the only chips are in the keys to old cylinder. I think DrX thought of that. Using old tumbler, I can drive to dealership and get more keys. Im going to go put battery and switch in. Although I have never gotten switch and connector by myself. Thing whipped me for over a week now.
 
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