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'72 350SL, '85 300D, '98 E320, '19 Subaru Outback (sold '14 GLK250)
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have some rust around sunroof. Car was repainted 5 yrs ago and they "fixed" this rust at that time, but not properly.

To do this properly this time, I am sure I need to remove the front seal and side brushes. They actually look OK and I don't have any leaks. But do you thing I can get them out without damaging them?

How are they removed?

Does the front seal just push on?

Side brushes - do I need to loosen the clamping strip below them to remove them?

If I have body shop do rust repair, what would y'all suggest - mask an area around roof and paint just to that, paint the whole roof or can they just blend in? (Paint is like new - done 5 yrs ago)

What does the edge of the roof opening look like under the seals?

A few pics of rust and seal.
 

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'72 350SL, '85 300D, '98 E320, '19 Subaru Outback (sold '14 GLK250)
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Discussion Starter #2
Lot's of reads but no answers ;)

My guess is that the front seal just pushes on and the brushes are somehow clamped by the side rails.

I guess I will just go at it and see what happens :)
 

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the front seal is sandwiched between the roof and the pan. you will need to remove your visors, rear view mirror, a pillar trims etc to remove the roof header panel. the side seals are clamped in by the pan as well.

if I was you if you have that much crust in there I'd get into that pan and so some major cleaning. you should yank the sunroof sheetmetal completely and get in there and deep clean the whole pan and drainage system.

dont make the mistake I did and install the front seal upside down. then you get the fun of tearing it apart and putting it all back together.

it should look like this when its done

 

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'72 350SL, '85 300D, '98 E320, '19 Subaru Outback (sold '14 GLK250)
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Discussion Starter #4
the front seal is sandwiched between the roof and the pan. you will need to remove your visors, rear view mirror, a pillar trims etc to remove the roof header panel. the side seals are clamped in by the pan as well.

if I was you if you have that much crust in there I'd get into that pan and so some major cleaning. you should yank the sunroof sheetmetal completely and get in there and deep clean the whole pan and drainage system.

dont make the mistake I did and install the front seal upside down. then you get the fun of tearing it apart and putting it all back together.

it should look like this when its done
Thanks for the reply and the info!

I hadn't realized I would have to take the roof header panel off.

Anyone bought the seal replacement instructions from mercedessource.com? Are they worth getting?

Will try and clean it up as much as I can and paint some of the hidden areas with POR.
 

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'72 350SL, '85 300D, '98 E320, '19 Subaru Outback (sold '14 GLK250)
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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Had a look at it and I am not sure how to start. BTW, this is an '85 300D with electric sunroof.

- Below the brush side strips, there is a metal strip held by several screws. If I remove those screws, should the brush come off? It didn't seem to want to budge.

- Front seal - The air deflector blocks access. Presumably it should come off first, or maybe not. Then it "looks" like the seal needs to be pushed down and off a downward facing edge of the roof. Ot just pulled away from edge? But ducati said I need to remove the mirror, visors and head panel to remove this seal?? Perhaps I misunderstood?

Anyone have link to instructions on just how I should R&R these 3 seals?
 

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here's some reference to get your bearings:

this is the sunroof pan. it is bolted and foam taped to the roof of your car.
the retaining 'lip' for the front seal as well as the flanges that hold up the brushes can be seen here.



once you have the sunroof headliner, rearview mirror, visors, and stuff related to and remove the header as well, let me know. don't forget to remove the aluminum strip that says 'webasto' that holds in the trailing edge of the header.
 

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'72 350SL, '85 300D, '98 E320, '19 Subaru Outback (sold '14 GLK250)
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Discussion Starter #8
BTW the reason you're doing this work is so you can actually unbolt the front pan bolts so the pan will budge downwards a bit so you can install the front seal properly.
Thanks ducati for posting the picture and explaining why I have to dismantle!

I had read this on mercedessource site:
Please note: You only need to open the sunroof to change this seal. It can be a little tricky to get the new seal in the groove. No instructions included with this seal. If you need instructions then I recommend you purchase our seal replacement manual .
so I assumed I could install the front and side seals without dismantling the headliner. But maybe your method makes it easier?

I have ordered new seals, but without having them in my hands it is harder to visualize what has to be done.

How are the brushes removed? If I remove the screws just below the brushes, should the brushes release or how do I get them off?
 

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i personally wouldnt try to jam that front seal in without opening that space up a bit. if your pan has rust in it, you're gonna wanna clean everything thoroughly anyhow. when you have that header panel off, you might end up horrified at what you'll find on the bottom side of the pan... definitely worth the time to take a look, as you can pop your rearview mirror mount back on and drive the car around with this stuff tore apart. you'll also be able to inspect your front sunroof drain tubes.
 

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'72 350SL, '85 300D, '98 E320, '19 Subaru Outback (sold '14 GLK250)
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Discussion Starter #11
they are held in with clamping force. if you loosen [not remove] those screws, you should be able to get em out with some convincing.
How do I convince them? From the top down with a wedge between the brush and the roof opening or somehow from underside?

I see why you want the headliner removed - maybe I should have a look.
 

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'72 350SL, '85 300D, '98 E320, '19 Subaru Outback (sold '14 GLK250)
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Discussion Starter #12
i personally wouldnt try to jam that front seal in without opening that space up a bit. if your pan has rust in it, you're gonna wanna clean everything thoroughly anyhow. when you have that header panel off, you might end up horrified at what you'll find on the bottom side of the pan... definitely worth the time to take a look, as you can pop your rearview mirror mount back on and drive the car around with this stuff tore apart. you'll also be able to inspect your front sunroof drain tubes.
I got the car back from the body shop and not too pleased! They fixed the exterior rust OK, but on the underside there is rust in several places. They should have called me and let me know (it was hidden behind the trim). I should be able to fix it with POR-15 but it is not easy to get at because the sunroof frame is in the way.

Totally removing the sunroof would be best, but it seems like quite a job. My headliner is in excellent condition, so I wouldn't want to wreck it in the process.

I am thinking of first removing the front headboard and see how that helps. How do the A-pillar covers come off? Any other tricks to removing headboard after I have mirror and visors off?

If I just wanted to lower front of frame a little to gain better access, would I need to get the headliner totally off to get at enough screws?
 

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you can leave the a pillar covers on

you have to remove the aluminum trim that is visible when your sunroof is open. it says WEBASTO on it. it is held on by 6 delicate screws. then the header actually slides out towards the rear.



visors, visor clips, rearview mirror, rearview mirror mounting plate, webasto trim.
it's a total of about 14 phillips head screws.
 

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1982 300d 43k original miles with veggie kit
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I am a newby as far as some of this goes but as far as the rust I have tried several products over the years and the only one that actually works is por-15 the little rust you have is perfect for this and will last for years and becomes part of the metal
 

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1980 Mercedes Benz 300D
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I am a newby as far as some of this goes but as far as the rust I have tried several products over the years and the only one that actually works is por-15 the little rust you have is perfect for this and will last for years and becomes part of the metal
x2 - POR-15 is a great product :thumbsup:
 

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'72 350SL, '85 300D, '98 E320, '19 Subaru Outback (sold '14 GLK250)
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Discussion Starter #16
I am a newby as far as some of this goes but as far as the rust I have tried several products over the years and the only one that actually works is por-15 the little rust you have is perfect for this and will last for years and becomes part of the metal
I have been using POR-15 on my cars for years - First time was back in 1989 on toolkit area in trunk of my 350SL which was just rust supported by the undercoating. Used POR as the layup resin along with some polyester window screening for reinforcement - Still perfect and feels like it is original steel!

So, yes, I will be using POR - It's just a bit hard to get into the corners to clean up first because there is not much more than 1/4" to work through, unless I lower the sunroof frame a bit.

Thanks for the input guys and all the best for the holidays!
 

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1982 300d 43k original miles with veggie kit
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por-15 it is fantastic but one word of caution when using it cover up everything if it gets on there is no removing and this includes your skin if you get it on youself will wear it
 

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'72 350SL, '85 300D, '98 E320, '19 Subaru Outback (sold '14 GLK250)
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Discussion Starter #18
i personally wouldnt try to jam that front seal in without opening that space up a bit. if your pan has rust in it, you're gonna wanna clean everything thoroughly anyhow. when you have that header panel off, you might end up horrified at what you'll find on the bottom side of the pan... definitely worth the time to take a look, as you can pop your rearview mirror mount back on and drive the car around with this stuff tore apart. you'll also be able to inspect your front sunroof drain tubes.
I took your advice on this. Having the header panel off allowed me to open up the gap for painting and I can see how it will make installation of the seal easier.

My sunroof pan is in good shape - no rust. And drains and hoses look like new! But there was quite a bit of rust on the underside of the roof lip inside the seal gap.

Having sunroof completely out would have made it easier to repair the rust, but I think what I have done with sanding, chiselling etc removed the loose rust and the POR should look after the rest. I will also spray some Rust Check into the slot before installing the seal.

A few pics - all except last one are before starting repair.
 

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'72 350SL, '85 300D, '98 E320, '19 Subaru Outback (sold '14 GLK250)
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Discussion Starter #20
excellent work! now you're slowing the rust down down and stopping the leaks.
Just finished up the job today. OE seals went in fine, but I doubt the Uro front one (which I also have) would have.

Shop had removed the deflector - I had to resort to Google to figure out how it went back ;) Anyway everything works and I doubt I will see any rust in there for many years!

These jobs all seem easy once you have done them :)

Graham
 
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