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Removing instrument cluster & radio code

6K views 31 replies 6 participants last post by  raymond leung 
#1 ·
Hi,

I have 2002 w208 elegance, and I couldnt find the solutions for these on search so I would like to ask you following:

I am trying to remove instrument cluster. I dont have the lever to pull out (adjust) the wheel. Did someone with same model succeeded to remove instrument cluster, without removing the entire wheel ? If so, please explain me how..

Also, If I remove the cluster without removing the wheel, is it safe to disconnect the cables from cluster without disconnecting the ground from battery ?

Another thing, is there a way to check (or change) the radio code.. If I do all this above, I want to be sure that I have a valid radio code card (without removing the radio to see its serial..), so is there a way I can check or change the the code in computer's settings ? I have audio 10 cd.

cheers
 
#2 ·
#3 ·
I reviewed all that, and a lot of topics, but there is a missing picture how to move the cluster between the wheel and original cluster position...

I read that I have to disconnect the ground from battery if I want to remove the wheel, (not to crash airbag or its light), but if the key is away from ignition and if I remove the cluster without removing the wheel, will the Check engine light (or some other) appear when I connect back the cables ?
 
#4 ·
Hi,

I have 2002 w208 elegance, and I couldnt find the solutions for these on search so I would like to ask you following:

I am trying to remove instrument cluster. I dont have the lever to pull out (adjust) the wheel. Did someone with same model succeeded to remove instrument cluster, without removing the entire wheel ? If so, please explain me how..
I have NOT done this - but the MB WIS procedure IS to first remove the steering wheel, including airbag. That means it is quite a task, as you have to remove the center bolt which is torqued @ 80Nm. If you can manage without taking the wheel off (as on the W209) please take some photos and post here for the benefit of the forum!

Also, If I remove the cluster without removing the wheel, is it safe to disconnect the cables from cluster without disconnecting the ground from battery ?
Again, the WIS always tells you to disconnect the battery negative terminal. Especially if working near the airbag!

However, in principle, if you keep the key out of the ignition, you should be OK

Another thing, is there a way to check (or change) the radio code.. If I do all this above, I want to be sure that I have a valid radio code card (without removing the radio to see its serial..), so is there a way I can check or change the the code in computer's settings ? I have audio 10 cd.
I don't know how to find the radio code... but this thread gives you some ideas about how NOT to lose the radio voltage if the battery is disconnected.

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210-e-class/1314443-battery-diy-without-losing-settings.html
 
#5 ·
At this moment I am stucked at the disconnecting cables..

Can someone please point me to how to disconect the cable:


I tried to pull it out, but it doesnt work.. Is there some lever or something , or I must pull harder ?
 
#6 ·
I tried to pull it out, but it doesnt work.. Is there some lever or something , or I must pull harder ?
No - don't pull harder...:eek:

The WIS says "unlock and remove the electrical connections". The MB connectors are always held together with a clip of some kind so that they cannot fall apart. If you study the connector assembly it should become clear - but do not use force...
 
#8 · (Edited)
by "clip" I think they mean on grey plastic on picture in post above.. But I dont know how to remove it..

Edit: I forgot to writte that the cables are short so I cant pull out the cluster more without disconnecting cables.. I tried to pull cables a little, but simply, they cant be pulled, and I dont want to use too much force.. I dont want to rip some cable..
 
#10 ·
The 2 main wiring harnesses of the cluster held in place by a fastening clip that you need to swing away from the actual harness connection for the harness to come-out at the back. The wires are not long enough for you to pull the cluster away from its place without disconnecting these 2 main wiring harnesses first.
 
#11 ·
I haven't done this one myself, but I am assuming you are wanting to disconnect the two big wiring connectors?
Try pushing them it a bit - sometimes the connector has a little clip or hook that is really only visible when you push the clip in and you see where it is separate from the rest. You might need to push the clip in with a very small screwdriver to depress it enough to pull through the gap.
 
#12 ·
Yes, the cables are too short to remove the cluster without disconnecting them.

So I need to disconnect the cables.. There are a lot of posts describing how to replace bulbs and fix the pixels, but there is no explicit tutorial how to remove cluster :)

I found how to remove clips here

It may be useful to someone else too.. Now my quest is going on :)
 
#13 ·
^^ .. thanks, - that's interesting information for the forum. So we now know:

1. You do NOT have to remove the steering wheel to get the IC out. (I wonder why the WIS thinks that you do?)

2. You have to depress a little black piece to separate the 2 connectors used in there.

What is your reason for pulling the cluster out? :)
 
#14 ·
I want to try to repair pixels on my cluster. I found DIY but it starts from the cluster on the table :)

So today I am going to disconnect the cables and try to remove the cluster without moving the wheel. The cables are short so I cant pull cluster with connected cables.. I read somewhere that you can pull out by pulling the cluster as much as you can near wheel and then rotate wheel with the cluster into one side and like that to remove cluster..

I hope it will work.. otherwise removing the wheel remains only possible solution
 
#15 ·
You don't have to remove the wheel at all but to make it easier for yourself, make sure you pull the steering wheel all the way out towards you. There is a handle under the steering wheel to do that. This gives a bit more room to maneuver the cluster and get it out.
 
#21 ·
Ok, I am not satisfied with the results as after spent 5 hours in the car I managed to fix only temperature display :(

Here is my mini tutorual of what I did:

Before doing anything, read this post at least twice !!!
Also see this DIY, it helped me a lot !
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w208-clk-class/1374260-diy-instrument-cluster-lcd-display-fix.html

Now, prepare the tool. Dont forget tweezers, scissors, screwdriver..


Very important: YOU DO NOT HAVE TO DISCONNECT THE BATTERY OR TO REMOVE YOUR WHEEL !!!!!! Also, you do not have to have handle to pull out (adjust) the wheel.

I did all this by not leaving the car. I did not push my key in ignition !

1. First, removing the cluster.. It is not so hard, what you need is a little strenght and 2 credit cards. No extra tool is needed, nor the hookes ! Just push the credit cards on the sides where you should push the hooks (see other tutorials) and use your strenght to push one side use your palms and fingers to cover more plastic as you can..), then the other.. Another person helped me on this by pushing other side in the same time.. So you may need an extra pair of hands.

2. Now the cluster is out and it is between its hole and steering wheel. Now, pull the cluster as much as you can and disconnect the cables. The cables are too short and they must be disconnected. The cable has a safety switch, and DO NOT TRY TO RIP ! Look few posts abovem they have a switch - a piece of black plastic which holds grey safety. Push the switch with your finger and grey part will rotate itself. Now you can just gently remove the cable without any resistance ! Now using both hands on wheel, hold cluster and wheel, and rotate them both to the right. See the link from the post above if you have any questions.

3. The instrument cluster is in your hands. Now, remove the plastic. There are few plastic switches on top and bottom side that holds plastic together, and you can unlock them easy. Now you removed the front "glass" (plastic) and you have the real cluster and bottom black plastic. It has 6 plastic switches (if I remmeber good) and do not forget the one at the bottom ! (I ll get back to this later)

4. You disconnected front and rear plastic and you have cluster in your hands. DO NOT TOUCH OR REMOVE THE NEEDLES, at least I didnt ! Turn it on the other side to reach the flat cable for temperature and clock. What I did is I used the paper, twisted it a few times like a cigar, then press it. In my case I made it tick more like x1,5 of the business card tickness. I tried this with less and more tickness but clock in my case didnt work in any case, and temerature sometimes did and sometimes not. So you would have to try few times if you are not lucky as I am not :) When you insert paper (or whatever you think it is better) put the cluster in the rear plastic casing. Double check if all safety switches are ok ! Also check if all circless (fuel, speed and engine) are in same level ! In my case, before I figured this out, I forgot to attach one safety switch at the bottom, the transparent one which hold the fuel circle and then the needle didnt work !!!! They were hard to move, also check this !!! Try moving them in direction where they shoud move, and if everything is ok, they must move with ease. Now, do not put the front plastic ! just put the cluster back , the same way you pulled it out, but now it is much easy as you dont have front plastic part.. Attach the cables. Hold the grey lever on the cable down, you will hear gentle "click", and the lever will look like in picture 419 of the picture few post above where I found cables. Then, just push the cables, grey lever from cable will go to the middle of connector, push it a little bit until it reaches behind the safety switch. Do the same with seccond cable.

Now, the cluster is attached to cables, put the key in ignition and put it in position 1,2.. So you will test if you succeded or not.. In my case, I didnt, so I pulled cluster again and deattach the plastic and tried again... But when you finish, put the front platic on top, and then return entire cluster back in place..

in my case, I didnt lose any settings (radio code or anything else), and I didnt got any errors.. Everything is working as before, just now I have temerature working but not the clock :(

If you have any questions, I am here :)
 
#30 ·
Yes. I replaced the two film ribbon connectors to the temperature and the Shift/clock LCD displays, and all the pixels came back ok. It was a 2-hour job.

The ribbon connectors came with good working instructions, including how to removing the meter needles to gain access to the PCB where you can work on the replacement.
 
#24 · (Edited)
For further notice, there is no speedometer cable on my car. Just two cables attached to sides..

It seems soon that I will try to do the same procedure again in order to make everything work. By the way, I noticed I have a bulb attached to PCB for unfastened seat belts on the cluster.. The bulb is not burned out, it looks Ok, and it never turnes on ( on key in any positions., or when belts are fasten and unfasten )

So I cant figure out does this w208 has this option at all, or I am missing some electronic contact ? Or maybe it exists in avangarde version (I have elegance)?
 
#27 ·
A previous owner might have been irritated by the warning beep when the driver's seatbelt is disconnected - and 'bridged' the circuit somewhere.

I have a feeling that there is another switch (in the seat) that detects the driver's weight, which is integrated into the seat belt buckle circuit. I'm gonna check this on my W209... later. :thumbsup:
 
#29 ·
My error on post # 27 re weight sensor in driver's sear cushion. Not so.
(I was confusing that with the sensor switch on W209 passenger seat to inhibit airbag if child seat is fitted)

Your seatbelt fail light (and all other fail lights in the IC ) should come on when the igniition switch is in position 2 before starting. Then go out on starting, and come on again until the seat belt is fastened.

There are microswitches in the buckle, and a small connector nearby. You should be able to check the wiring & switches with a test meter. Probably normally open-circuit. Closed-circuit when belt is latched.

See drawing below:
 

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