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2000 Vito 108CDI
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15 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hello, started removing injectors from a wrecker motor for my 108CDI using a slide-hammer type tool from ebay, this motor had medium black-death, injectors stuck hard but this tool removed three so far, I am happy with it if anyone is thinking of buying one Pictures by 1960bug - Photobucket
 

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Vito 280 ,ZX7r,gsxr 750, ,Z650 Cafe ,Benelli Tornado.Ford consul , Ford Pop , ,Chevy Astro,Dog,Wife
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1,481 Posts
Looks good but would it work in-situ.....slider bar looks quite long....
 

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2000 Vito 108CDI
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15 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
My honest answer is no I don't think it could be used with motor in-situ, very low level maybe with a shorter slide bolt. On my original motor I managed to break two clamp bolts, destroyed the cam cover and mutilated the injectors getting them out, it was more economical(I thought) to get another motor but even this motor had black death. So if I had my time over I would have immediately pulled the old motor out and worked on it on the shed floor, and then the slide-hammer works. black-death with my original motor began 3 years ago and I after my debackle trying to extract the injectors the car sat in the garage completely ignored until I forgave it and got this other motor. Mind you all this because I couldn't afford to get professional help! You need to mortgage your house to pay MB to fix these things here!
 

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Vito 112CDI 99', BMW 325TDS Touring 96', Suz' SV650S 03', RS50 01' big bore, RS125 00'
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26 Posts

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2000 Vito 108CDI
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15 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Thanks Leehawk, that link is good info I didn't have and that cleaning tool looks the goods too, I now have the last injector out and am looking at getting 4 exchange ones. Is there are need to code these exchange injectors? I have trouble seeing the washer at the bottom of the bore, appears to be silver seat colour so am hoping the copper is discoloured and that they are actually there!
 

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1999 108CDI
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371 Posts
The copper seal is often stuck on the end of the injector, by the tar. It should be brown and tarry if still on seat. I used the Hutson seat cutter after the cleaning brushes- similar to refacing a water tap seating. I then polished seats using Dremel emery discs in the Dremel rubber collet, screwed tightly into expanded socket of 1/2" copper tube piece. Emery disc diameter needs to be reduced slightly. Tighten new stretch bolt onto new clamp to 7Nm + 180 degrees extra- this is scary as you near the 180 degree mark. Of course, no debris should be in bolt hole. Injector removal clamp is only effective if engine has been run to operating temperature first, in which case vise grips are pretty good too:)
 

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2000 Vito 108CDI
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15 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
thanks Jimmyjames, I have a dremel so will do as you have, there is definately no washers on the injectors and haven't cleaned the bores yet so hoping they are there, the injectors I have removed are not original so am being cautious! how did you block the nozzle hole while cleaning bore to stop gunk getting into the motor? I saw a utube where a guy put compressed air via the glow plug hole but not keen on trying to dislodge them!
 

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Vito 112CDI 99', BMW 325TDS Touring 96', Suz' SV650S 03', RS50 01' big bore, RS125 00'
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26 Posts
In the brush kit you get some threaded brass bungs that you screw on the threaded rod, lower them down and when seated you unscrew the rod to leave the bung at the bottom. This is great to clean the "soot" but if you plan to reface i guess you can't leave it in.

I have changed two injectors on mine, both had different MB references so i bought two exchange injectors with the two same refs and i didn't need to code them.
 

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2000 108CDI, 2007 120 CDI long, Suzuki K5 GSXR track bike, 2005 Kawasaki ZX10R
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1,423 Posts
I have a vacume cleaner with an adapter on the end of the hose with a small bore tube and i just suck all the crap out when i finish. It will fit right down inside the head and is very effective. With the recutting tool you are meant to put a bit of grease on the end to catch any swarf

Martin
 

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2000 Vito 108CDI
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15 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Thank you for that advice, it all helps! on a related matter, my van has sat for 3 years and I am wondering if the fuel in the tank could be affected by a bug, would it be a risk to use it when I am ready to start or pump the tank out and put new fuel in? I know the low pressure pump is a lift pump driven by the camshaft but would it be possible to fit a seperate pump (like a 12v bilge pump) to the tank line and pump it dry, has anyone done this?
 

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2000 108CDI, 2007 120 CDI long, Suzuki K5 GSXR track bike, 2005 Kawasaki ZX10R
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Hi ya, i would ditch all the fuel and put new in because there is a fair chance it has a lot of water in it from condensation and before everyone says it can't happen a local contractor that uses the back off an old fuel tanker as his mobile fuel supply had to drain and refill his whole fleet on first cut silage when they all filled up from the tanker half way through the first day. They had left the fuel tanker with less than a quarter of a tank of fuel in it over the winter and spring and there was nearly as much water in there as diesel. Very costly for him.
As for emptying the tank i use an external battery powered pump and just drop a pipe down the filler neck, you can also do it by disconnecting the fuel filler pipe and draining into a bucket

Martin
 

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2000 Vito 108CDI
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15 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Phew that's hard lesson to learn, I will definately drain my tank! Thanks Martin, I have ordered a Facet online lift pump and will pump it out, don't know the position of the fuel line pick up in the tank but should get most of it out
 

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2000 Vito 108CDI
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15 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
While waiting to get a bore cleaning kit I made up a plug using a stainless bike spoke and the fitting that pokes through the bike rim and screws to the spoke, then fitted a rubber cap, held on buy a copper wire twitch, Screw on the spoke, fit in the nozzle bore (fits firmly) then screw out the spoke. The rubber cap is a cap to fit a vacuum line on a carby, it works well and seals
 

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2000 Vito 108CDI
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15 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Righto, I have removed my old motor and was preping new-second hand one to go in when I find the new one has not got what looks like a fuel cut off switch mounted above the alternator and so has one less connector on the loom, also has a different part no. on the loom tag. I'm thinking I will try and repair the broken studs on the old motor and swap cam covers over and keep it original. Sooo much easier to work on with the motor out, would have saved a lot of cost and agro if I had taken the old motor out initially before I did damage, but I have to move on, saving up to solve the injector problem, re-build or sell house and get new!
 

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1999 108CDI
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371 Posts
You're going great guns, mate:thumbsup: If the van is a keeper, now would be the time to replace all the hoses, fuel lines and serpentine belt while they are all easily accessible. Alternator may need attention too, + fuel pump and rail seals.
 

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2000 Vito 108CDI
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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks Jimmyjames, yep your right, I will try and do all I can while motor is out, it will be a keeper if it goes again! I cannot recomend enough taking the motor out is the way to go, but then I am biased with air-cooled vee-dubs!
I have had success getting out one broken clamp bolt, using the easy-out I bought in a kit, USA brand and straight fluted, has a sliding nut so you can use a 1/4 drive to wiggle it in both directions, took two days of periodic soaking with carb. cleaner and wriggling cautiously, very happy and think these style of easy-outs work the best
 

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2000 Vito 108CDI
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15 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
forgot to add that I used a spot-weld drill bit which fitted neatly in the top of the clamp-bolt hole and it cleaned up the top of the broken bolt and left a centre point to use a 1/8 drill, which is a left-handed drill bit, all these points helped get it out with no further damage! These vehicles are a great lesson in patience!
Making sure the drill depth is monitored too is essential.
 

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2000 Vito 108CDI
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15 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Absolute Disaster! Please disregard my idea of the bike spoke plug, as above, while cleaning the no.4 inj.bore the spoke plug was forced hydraulically by the cleaning fluid I was using into the firing chamber and now it's a heads-off job to remove it, it's a hard lesson. I have a question: what are the things to look out for when removing the head?
Crikey you would not believe the hassles I've had with this vehicle!!
 

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2000 Vito 108CDI
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Discussion Starter #19
Well since my last post I have had the head off, found the cylinder bores had surface rust (sitting for 3 years) retreived the offending bit in no.1. I cleaned the inj. bores and re-cut the seal seats but couldn't completely get rid of small chatter marks no matter how careful I was so made up a dowel (16mm) with 1200 wet and dry super-glued to the bottom and honed them, this was straightforward with the head out. I refitted the head with new gaskets and bolts and took the plunge and bought new injectors as all mine were shot from the removal process, this Vito is now the most costliest vehicle I have ever had!
Now on the home run putting it back together, thank you to the person who posted PDF's of the manual for this whole process, not sure who it was but I will find out as it was very helpful for an amateur. Thought I would post this as someone may get something out of it, if you need a challenge rebuild a Vito!
Neil
 
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