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Discussion Starter #1
does anyone know how to remove the carpeting on the passenger side to route a power cable for an aftermarket amp? I can't get the rear seatbelt plastic cover thing off to lift the doorsill trim up (which is what i figure is how to lift the carpeting up). Thanks, I REALLY dont want to spend $100 for a shop to route one wire. to the trunk.
 

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What I did is removed the door seals, both. They should be connected. and ran the wire between the seatbelt place. It worked for me. A peice of wire and some pulling will do the trick. BTW, where did you run the wire?
 

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right now i have it very ghetto running alongside the doors over the carpeting, so that I can at least listen to music until i can move it under. what do you mean by door seals? i took off the metal door sill covers (that say mercedes benz on them) and unscrewed a couple of screws underneath it that holds the long plastic thing that goes from the front passenger to the rear passenger seat, but it wont lift up bc of the seatbelt srs thing. it seems pretty well lodged in there, i dont want to break any trim parts.
 

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2000 ML430, 2008 GL550, 2008 Ford F250 Superduty
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i ran mine through the center console. much cleaner and more room too. especially if you're running 4guage or lower.
 

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how did you route it that way? and how do you take the wiring to behind the rear seats (that is where my amps are located). Im having trouble removing the carpeting, and I dont know how to remove the seats. I saw two relatively big black torx looking bolts, but they were so tight that it made my 14.4v drill smoke, and wouldnt budge
 

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i ran a 4 guage line through the firewall via the a/c condenser draingage grommet. then ran the line into the dash and through the center console. do a search for "omar sultan" or "bose upgrade" and you'll find a "how to" on removing the center console. you can run the line through there but you're going to have to cut two slits into the carpet just under the console armrest/storage and another under the rear seats (where you want the line to exit). thats where you run the line into and under the carpet. you will have to remove the rear seats too, it requires removing about 20-25 bolts/nuts to do so. have someone help you cause the seats are heavy. i wouldnt suggest using an electric drill or driver cause these bolts are loctited on. use a ratchet. once you get the rear seats out you're gonna have to run a clothes hanger under the rear slit to the new amp location.

hope this helps. good luck and post some pics!
 

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theres a much easier way to do all this and im surprised no one has figured this out yet since im not the brightest electrian out there..first of all there are 2 plastic circular covers on the bottom of the seat belt holding..it only takes a tiny flathead screw driver to remove them and then unscrew the two screws that are now reachable..once this is done u can run all ur wires from the trunk to the front and once ur at the front remove the fuse cover in the "kick pannel" location in the passangers spot and there will be a thick red wire that has a nut fastened to keep it in place..unscrew that and connect ur 4 gauge wire or whatever to that and then screw it back on it..theres no need to go through the firewall since this red wire is already directly connected to the positive terminal on the battery. this wire is definitly big enough to handle the 12volts needed.
 

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you're right benzrider, thats an alterntive to running a new hot lead from the battery but, it really depends on the amp he's running and more importantly the current he's drawing. that wire in the kick panel is only a 12 guage (i think) which most aftermarket amps suggest running at least an 8 or 10. i'm not sure what that lead is connected to but when running larger amps it's always better to be directly connected to the battery. try running it that way but if your amps starts to "clip" when you turn it up, you'll know why.
 
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