Port and polish the heads on a 380 would be a waste of polish. No amount of polishing could ever make up for the fact that the air has to make a 180 degree turn inside the lower plenum on its way to the polished ports. What were they thinking?I don't know for sure but would assume all the machined surfaces.
However, isn't it time to strip the engine again to port and polish the heads.
The green residue looks like leftover sealer paint that was pre-applied to the metal seal body by the seal manufacturer. Does the new seal have a rubber coating on the outside, or is it metal?Mercedes Service Manual states that before inserting the rear oil seal you need to coat some portion of it with "long life grease". What the hell is long life grease?
Here is what the manual says...
Step 4: Fill radial sealing ring space between dust lip and sealing lip with long-life grease according to sheet 266.2 of the Specifications for Service Products.
And another question:
There appears to be some kind of adhesive that was used on the inside of the mounting surface of the rear cover for the sealing ring. In the picture below you can see it as a green residue left behind after I removed the old seal. Does anyone know what that green residue is?
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Thank you so much. I'll order the Shell equivalent.Maybe?
- MB 266.2 Langzeitschmierfett A 001 989 88 51-
- Shell Stamina 0233B
I don't dare let myself think that anymore. Every time I think I've got the rebuild on an even keel something comes up that bites me in the (insert body part of preference).It's looking good. You should still have some top down driving weather when you're finished.
The engine stand in the video is exactly the same as my Harbor Freight engine stand and although the hoist is different, the problem is the same. The legs of the engine stand and the legs of the hoist interfere with each other and you can't get the stand far enough into the space between the legs of the hoist to be able to lift the engine off the stand (or put it on the stand for that matter).I've just been looking at which stand to buy and came across this video, so will avoid this type.
I forgot to mention... don't buy a 3 point engine stand, especially for a M116 of M117 engine. When fully assembled on the stand these engines are massive in size (if not in weight) and the 3 point stand will be unstable when turning the engine over to get at the bottom. Definitely buy the 4 point stand like in the video but just be aware that there will be leg interference that you must resolve either by using a load leveler or modifications like in the video.I've just been looking at which stand to buy and came across this video, so will avoid this type.
This is the one I'm looking at, rated for 680Kg.
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Its double the price of the cheap ones but will give more peace of mind.
My existing crane and leveler were fine last time.
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