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Remove the heads '83 380

61K views 1K replies 42 participants last post by  Jyuma 
#1 ·
Today's the day I'm finally removing the heads to track down my tick that sounds just like a lifter (but isn't) and the reason for low compression on #6 (probably connected with the tick).
I figured I'd better check with you guys first. I got to the stage where I need to remove the air intake assembly (where the FD sits) and any other stuff that needs to come off before I can get to the intake manifold but then I stopped myself because I wasn't sure what to take off first. I searched for a "how to" on removing the intake manifold and heads from a 380 but I can't find one.

Do I need to remove the air intake assembly before removing the intake manifold or can they both come off a the same time. I know that sounds a little basic to anyone who has already done it but to me it looks pretty much like "you can't get there from here". I don't want to remove things if they don't need to be removed.

I don't need a step by step instruction, just verification that the assembly that holds the FD needs to come off before you can take the intake manifold off? Of course, if you know of an illustrated step by step on the topic that would be even better.

Thanks
 
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#5 ·
Yeah... I saw that, but it uses some terminology that I'm unfamiliar with. Like... "Unscrew bearing bracket for guide block control". What the hell is that?
And "Unscrew bearing bracket for longitudinal regulating shaft" Huh?.
And here's one I love..."Unscrew all fastening screws and remove intake manifold toward rear". Could they have provided a more useless set of instruction than that? How about telling me where the bolts are and while your at it... how many bolts get removed?

I spent the afternoon taking stuff off some of which I don't know needed to be taken off.
Plug wires... no brainer.
Rocker covers... no brainer.
Remove distributor. ???
Removed the air tubes.
Removed all the injectors. Did I have too? I dunno.
Removed the cold start injector. ???
Cruise control. ???
WUR. ???
That's as far as I got today. Spent more time thinking than wrenching. Took many pictures.
Tomorrow I'll start removing all those 5mm (maybe 6mm?) Allen bolts that I'm assuming hold down the intake manifold. Maybe 9 on a side?
 
#7 ·
End of morning 2 and I'm making progress but it's slow going. There is just too much to try to remember so I'm marking everything with my Label maker.
I think I identified all the 6mm Allen head bolts that need to be removed but I just don't know for sure.
In the photo below the red arrows point to all the 6mm Allen bolts I removed on the right side...there are 8 of them. The left side looks pretty much the same relative to bolt pattern.
Is that all of them or are there more?
2605528
 
#930 ·
End of morning 2 and I'm making progress but it's slow going. There is just too much to try to remember so I'm marking everything with my Label maker.
I think I identified all the 6mm Allen head bolts that need to be removed but I just don't know for sure.
In the photo below the red arrows point to all the 6mm Allen bolts I removed on the right side...there are 8 of them. The left side looks pretty much the same relative to bolt pattern.
Is that all of them or are there more?
View attachment 2605528

how did you took off the plastic pipe for the injectors that sit close to the heads?
i'm trying to take it off with no luck
is it just pulling out with warming?
 
#8 ·
Here are some PDF's that I created a few years ago from various web sites that have now disappeared.

You will be interested to read in the first paragraph of the first pdf, "About 1,000 miles ago, I also started getting a pretty bad ticking from the passenger-side
valve-train ... indicative of probably a bad hydraulic compensating element ("lifter") or less likely, a bad rocker arm
".
 

Attachments

#9 ·
You will be interested to read in the first paragraph of the first pdf, "About 1,000 miles ago, I also started getting a pretty bad ticking from the passenger-side
valve-train ... indicative of probably a bad hydraulic compensating element ("lifter") or less likely, a bad rocker arm
".
[/QUOTE]

Interestingly, later on he finds a bad exhaust manifold gasket that attributed to the ticking.....
 
#12 ·
Finally got the intake manifold off. What a PITA!
They have more crap connected to that intake manifold than Carter has Little Liver Pills (talk about an old expression :)).
Here's the intake manifold sitting on my garage floor.
2605828


And here's a photo of the very dirty valley.
2605829
 
#13 ·
Finally got the intake manifold off. What a PITA!
They have more crap connected to that intake manifold than Carter has Little Liver Pills (talk about an old expression :)).
Here's the intake manifold sitting on my garage floor.
View attachment 2605828

And here's a photo of the very dirty valley.
View attachment 2605829
Jyuma, I admire your courage in doing this job. Your engine, garage-floor are so clean! Nice! As I am not much on engines, I was wondering what you are fixing by removing the heads. Also, will you be using helicoils or timeserts or nothing when you reinstall?
Good luck with the project,
 
#15 ·
Working on the top of the 116/117 engine is a whole different level of work as compared to an older Chevrolet or Ford V8. Change all the rubber parts while it is apart, including the large boot under the fuel metering unit as well as all the donut / 0-rings between the halves of the intake manifold and any other rubber you find. I also suggest that changing the electric switch at the throttle plate is a good idea. It does requires a carefull adjustment to get it to operate properly. Do not adjust the idle stop iteself. It is important that the intake manifold halves seat together properly and this can be examined carefully before installing the manifold. Many have not gotten the large rubber donuts between the intake manifold halves properly seated and this causes a whole lot of extra work. Get it right the first time. I have used a very light wiping of silicone grease on those donuts which seems to help them slide into place where they belong rather than getting pinched.

Any bolt, especially the allen head ones, which show any deformation, replace them!

Often, you can be successful in not doing thread inserts into the block. Yes, thread inserts are a pain and take several hours. ONLY use engine oil to lubricate threads and check to be sure the threads are clean and clear. You might want to run a thread chaser into them as needed.

When you torque the head nuts, if they go up to proper torque evenly, you will "probably" be ok. The moment you get that sinking feeling where the further you tighten a bolt, the looser the bolt feels, then you must take it all apart and do the inserts. I hope not.
 
#16 ·
All the parts... nuts, bolts, washers, tubes, hoses, sensors, switches, housings and brackets have been cataloged, marked and stored on shelves awaiting cleaning. It appears that I cannot escape the excessive cleaning gene I was not born with but rather developed with the onslaught of advanced age.

Intake and air flow metering stuff.
Engine Auto part


Components, brackets and air tubes.
Motor vehicle Vehicle Engine Auto part Car


Fuel lines and cables.
Machine Vehicle Metal Electrical wiring



And the fact that I creating an entire plating area in my shop isn't helping me back away from my obsession.
Room Shelf
 
#24 ·
Holy crap... the 10mm x 165mm (6.5") head bolts that go through the lower foot of the cam towers are relatively easy to break loose, but the upper cam tower bolts are as if they were welded in place. I'm using a 2 foot breaker bar and applying so much pressure that the Allen socket is getting stuck in the head of the bolt. I have to re-tighten the bolt to break the socket loose and then back the bolt out. Fortunately, so far there is no indication of thread damage. I've done the first 2... three to go.

I'm not liking this. :cautious:
 
#27 ·
It took me all afternoon but I finally removed all the head bolts from the right side head. I didn't lift the head off yet because I first need to remove the upper inner chain guide which holds the chain captive in the head. I can't lift the head off until the chain can pass through.

Engine Auto part Automotive engine part Machine


The head bolts were all relatively easy to remove, I'd almost say they felt under torqued. I suppose I should keep in mind that these heads were removed twice before... albeit over 20 years ago.
 
#28 ·
I removed the left side head... while I'm not certain what I expected to find, I didn't expect to find deep scoring marks in Nbr 6.
Auto part Wheel Metal


Also... there are 2 head bolts that are held captive in the head by valve springs. I'm wondering if this is normal?
Auto part Engine


And if that's not enough, it appears that Nbr 6 isn't firing properly. All the other intake valves are white from ignition, but Nbr 6 is black.
Auto part Engine Automotive engine part


Looks like I'll need to pull the engine in order to repair the scoring in Nbr 6. Something has obviously been scraping the cylinder wall but I don't see anything in there now unless it's a broken ring doing it.

In any event, I'll need to pull the engine to remove the piston. Inasmuch as I'll have nothing but the block left in the engine compartment after I pull the other head, it should be a relatively simple matter to pull the block and tranny together.

Thoughts?.
 
#30 ·
Possibly, but I'd be hard pressed to categorize the noise that would result from scraping the cylinder walls as tapping. Although on startup the tapping was quite pronounced.

I'll pull the right side head later today. Maybe I'll find a better candidate for the tapping sound on that side... but I doubt it.

What about the two captive head bolts? Does that seem right?
 
#31 ·
Removing and installing the engine as a unit really does work better. Be sure you have help. Use an adustable position engine lift bar. You will probably need to raise the front wheels somewhat to get the transmission to be able to swing low enough. Place a pieces of plywood against the AC core to protect it.

Same thing on installation. Assemble the entire engine / transmission and reinsert it.
 
#32 ·
Removing and installing the engine as a unit really does work better. Be sure you have help. Use an adustable position engine lift bar. You will probably need to raise the front wheels somewhat to get the transmission to be able to swing low enough. Place a pieces of plywood against the AC core to protect it.

Same thing on installation. Assemble the entire engine / transmission and reinsert it.
Well, inasmuch as I already have most of the engine disassenbled, I'm kind of committed to just a block removal.
 
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