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Reliability Highmileage

6K views 72 replies 15 participants last post by  tuttebenne 
#1 ·
I found a 95 W124 at a price low enough to buy... I have yet to check it out but my curiosity needs help.

Is it a bad idea, especially as a daily @ 200K miles?
 
#2 ·
Take the time to read the buyers guide we have linked in our DIY sticky. I have 217K on my 95 320TE and have zero hesitation to take it on a trip of any distance, any day. It is my daily driver.

If the car has been regularly maintained, you'll be able to tell. Another question to ask yourself is who's going to do the maintenance? Are you a DIY person or will you need to rely on an independent shop?

Jayare

Sent from my XT1710-02 using Tapatalk
 
#6 ·
There is nothing as expensive as a cheap Mercedes. If it sounds too good to be true, it usually is.

The key to buying a MB is having service records, service records, and more service records.

Being a '95, make sure the eco junk wiring disease was addressed (new engine harness and throttle body). Ditto on checking that the headgasket has already been replaced.

On the inside, make sure the HVAC system works flawlessly. Repairing a faulty A/C can easily blow and exceed your budget for the whole car.
 
#7 ·
I would add the transmission. If it is original, it will be pretty worn by now. Have that checked by a MB professional. The transmission replacement will be at least double of what you will be paying for the car at $1.5K. The reverse clutch seal is a wear item. If it does not engage in reverse in less than a second when the transmission is hot, pass up on the car. It's life will be limited and no remedy for it either.
 
#8 ·
Once the cars are sorted, they are a very good DD......that's all I've ever done with them. BUT....you've got the sloppiness of PO's to deal with and how the car was maintained/serviced. And.....the more 'mechanics' that worked on it, the more trouble you're going to have with it....quite frankly.

As an example.....when I bought my last TE, it came with a pretty good supply of service records. This is what you want....but on closer examination, the gal that owned the car in St.Paul-Minneapolis spent thousands at a foreign car service only to find out they were hacks. So then she found someone more adequate at repairs and he had to do most of the previous work all over again. And although he might have been a competent mechanic in other marques, his strong suit was not Benz cars. So there you have it......every system I've been into so far was ham-handed hacked with mediocre success.

You also have the issue of the quality of parts used......just read here in depth and you see the two camps clearly emerging.

Kevin
 
#9 ·
My DD has 303k..95 e320t,
If it was taken care of, and you can turn a wrench you will be happy. Just pay particular attention to items above. Engine harness, hg, trans, suspension, ac. Also 94-95 had issue with rust on front fenders ( lower front corner). Water collected, then they rusted from inside out. Parts are cheap, but availability in good brands has been declining.
 
#10 ·
That was interesting... the reverse gear was so bad it shook the entire car and the transmission slippage was in the low gears...

Front end shakes from some cut coil job. Honestly the car AC worked great which was a total salt in the wound! Would it be worth rebuilding if one gets it for less than $600? Or is it scheiße? :D Asking was 15.
 
#11 ·
I would walk away. As I mentioned previously, you will need a new transmission and that will cost you $3K - $4K depending on your location. Would you buy that car if it was $3500 with a good transmission?

There are plenty of fine W124's around for a lot less than $3500.

- Cheers!
 
#12 ·
It's not even theileage that's soich of an issue as it is that the car is now almost 25 years old. Common issues are all over the site and have been mentioned here. Transmission, head gasket, worn suspension parts all common on a w124 and espicslly one of this age with the suspension parts. For me it's things like plastic bits that are starting to break from age that are no longer available new. Like the c pillar covers for the wagon. Sunroof rails, other bits etc etc. It's an old car now.

I payed 4k for mine 4 years ago, it was cosmetically clean and "well maintained". It needed everything. Full suspension rebuilt front and rear, rear window regulators, full maintenance service. Rember the wagon also has self leveling shocks in the rear. And at 26 years they are work out, they are about 700$ a pair. I've got a few threads on em here. Also after a few years rust became apparent at the rear windows, top of the windshield and paint started to come off the roof above the windshield. This was a goergous car when I got it. So keep this all in mind, it's an old car haha. Mine only had 150k when I bought it
 
#13 ·
My two cents. I am at one year of ownership of my first W124, a 93’ 300e. It had 200,000 miles when I got it. I’ve spent an entire year sorting it out. I’ve spent around $3500 just on parts and that doesn’t include paint work On the A pillars which had rust. I completely rebuilt the suspension including sub frame mounts. The rest has been mostly odds and ends. I have not touched high dollar items like the transmission. I’m on borrowed time with an original throttlebody as far as I know. After installing a new AC condenser this summer I discovered that my compressor is leaking at the shaft and the front seals so that needs tending. I still have nice cold AC, but the reality is that it is slowly leaking. The car runs great drives beautifully and it’s my daily driver. And I’ve only put 6000 miles on it in one year. I don’t know the condition of my catalytic converter but both of my mufflers need replaced. The entire interior is sagging so that all has to be done. So I’m spreading all of this out over about three years and I have chunks of time that I can work on it so I don’t mind it.

But just add all of that up and I’ll bet I’ll be somewhere between five and 6000 when I’m done. Yes I will be proud of it and it’s all my work so that’s good. But go look on bring a trailer and see what you can buy for $6000 in a W124 and you’ll see what we’re talking about here. I paid 500 bucks for mine.

I could’ve been selective about some of the parts that I chose to replace but there’s nothing like knowing that everything is new in your suspension, new motor mounts, new fuel pumps, new radiator, thermostat, hoses… All that stuff makes me more confident to take this car on long journeys knowing that it’s been taken care of. you just have to know where your comfort zone is that’s all. Well, that and your budget. I thought replacing my crusty dry-socket ball joints would fix my stiff steering but it didn’t. So now I’m looking at steering box and/or a new power steering pump. Hundreds of dollars just waiting in the wings LOL.

good luck !
 
#14 ·
The other thing to consider is parts quality. As stated before for some things it's dwindelong and you have to spend the big $ for a part you won't have to replace every year. The steering box for example. Yeah, you can have your local shop reseal or "rebuild it". But there is only one company that I've found that does it right. And it's a 450 dollar box after the core charge. But ya know what, you spend the money once and it's done right and it's not a problem for years and years. Mine has been in the car 4 years, no slop, no leaks. Worth every$. Suspension parts, lemforder for most everything, febj for some stuff, but even then some febi stuff is reboxed garbage. Front lower control arms at 20 to 25 years old with original ball joints. Mine are still ok, but still...only arms I'll put on that I know I won't have to replace in a year or worry bout a failed ball joint on are factory ones. Which are not cheep.

Any Euro car will not be cheep to fix up. Plan on spending $ when buying one, even one that's got all the service records. You can find that 150k miles car that's been maintained that needs shocks, control arms, rear subframe bushings, rear window regulators that are getting tired, a sunroof that's hardly been used and sticky. Just gotta spend the time and look for the right car
 
#15 ·
If it's cosmetically near perfect, and you're comfortable doing most of the work yourself, that might be worth a gamble. (But I would pay less.)
That's two conditions, and notice I didn't say buy it, I said it might (only you can decide) be worth the gamble (implying positive outcome not a given.)


If you aren't comfortable doing most of the work yourself, walk away. If it's going to be your only means of transport, find a better candidate. If you don't have the time to do the work yourself (kids, school, elderly parents, whatever) find a better candidate. If it's going to be parked outside for long periods, don't bother; you'll be aging a lot of parts while it sits.
The axiom "there is nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes" is oft repeatd for a reason.
 
#16 ·
There isn't anything in this thread that is off the mark. These cars can be tanks but you need to do the service yourself. As far as rust is concerned, be very careful. There are plenty out there with no rust so don't settle. To me, any rust is a non-starter.
 
#17 ·
my wife's E320 wagon has 275K miles (75K are our miles) and has been quite reliable, but thats after we spent several $1000 catching up with deferred maintenance, then a couple years later, replacing the transmission we knew was weak when it finally died. all told we're about $10K into the car, but its in great shape now.
 
#18 ·
^What he said. Due to the age of the cars, and ignored maintenance, it takes a good $10K to bring a W124 (more for the V8s) into great shape.

That's why people shouldn't get into these cars based purely on the low purchase price, unless you're willing to commit. Otherwise it will be a regretful experience that turns sour pretty quick.
 
#23 ·
in the wagon's case, the 10K included the purchase price. and when we first got it, I took it to a rather expensive top shelf benz indie and had them do some stuff that i'm sure I could have done myself but I was in a place where I could afford it (flex disks and stuff like that).
 
#21 ·
No such thing as a cheap ‘95 w124 with 200k. Parts that aren’t wearing out are decaying with age. While these cars are easier to work on than newer models, a lot of problems will involve a mechanic and expensive parts. One repair could very easily cost more than the vehicle is worth.
 
#22 ·
I found a 95 W124 at a price low enough to buy... I have yet to check it out but my curiosity needs help.

Is it a bad idea, especially as a daily @ 200K miles?
[/
I have a ‘95 Cabriolet. These cars are relatively easy to work on compared to later models although major work like a transmission or tearing out the entire dash to replace an a/c condenser would take more patience than I have. Plastic bits and trim are disintegrating and I can’t find replacements for some. Many used parts are pricey. I’ve owned a few of these and there comes a point when the cost of a single repair is twice the value of a car this old. When that has happened I’ve taken a few omens to remember the good times, then sold the car for parts and moved on. Long way of saying you are not going to buy this car with 200k and drive it daily without spending grand or two yearly on repairs, maintenance and a tow or two.
 
#24 ·
the 300E2.6 ratbenz has come home again, and will be my winter beater car, we're back to 3 benzes, eek.

the ratbenz was /given/ to me for free, it had an intermittent stalling program. it only had 56k miles on it when I got it, odometer still working. it had dents in nearly every body panel from the little old lady original owner in Carmel By the Sea, California. she lost her license, it got parked for 20+ years, a friend inherited it, wasn't a car guy, and $2000 later without fixing problem, gave it to another friend, who found a problem via proper diagnostics, replaced the part CIS airflow potentiometer was measuring open, but the problem persisted. he gave it to me. I tinkered with it, and did all sorts of random stuff, using best available parts (new wires, plugs, cap, rotor, shield), the replacement airflow pot was still reading open, so I actually replaced the whole airflow meter assembly and the boot under it, using the same fuel regulator. ran great for 3-4 weeks, and the problem came back. WTF. I kept trying to figure out why it was so unhappy, finally brought it to this local shop, they foudn the problem in about 30 minutes, airflow leaks, replaced all teh regulators and seals, and its run like a new car ever since. at about 58k miles, the odometer broke. from wear and tear, I'm guessing my kids put about 100K combined miles on it, but its still running reasonably well, and shifts OK considering its a 2.6L slushbox and steers and rides tight.

that was the 'free hit'. nothing cheaper than a free benz, etc etc. hah hah. still loving the 124. after driving that freebie beater/ugly car, I got my wife her very nice rust free 3.2L 124 wagon in her favorite color, bright white, paid $3000... had 240K miles, now has 280k.

i've lost track of what my 'well maintained' 93 300CE Cabriolet has cost me because I haven't really cared to track it. I paid $8k for it with 220K miles in spring 2015. it now has 260k, 4.5 years later... . the engine, transmission have been fine but I've had to deal with a bunch of smaller stuff... most recently, spent $1000 or so fixing power top issues, and I think its due for a round of rear suspension bushings, shocks (it had new Napa (?!?) shocks on it when I bought it). The owner had a huge stack of records, but I didn't really go through them til after I bought it (mistake!)... much of the POs 'routine' service was done by a Napa garage who obviously weren't Mercedes specialists, and other stuff was fixed by an old german indie, who didn't much impress me when I called to ask for clarification on what a service comment meant. Some of my issues are due to me having to park it outslde last winter. its in a carport now, so its staying dry (good thing, we had 10 inches of rain last week!). It is due for some paint (severe clearcoat failure on the hood), and a new top before much longer. I've heard a cherry 124 cabrio is a $12k car, but it would take a good chunk of that to make this cherry again. so instead, I'm gonna ignore the little things, and drive it on sunny days while I can. the top goes up and down and is still intact. the ac and heater works (but the passenger side foot well isn't getting heat?!?).

The Cabrio is still a sweet cruise for around town (I live in a beach town...).

A Mid Left Coast December afternoon, hunkered down...
 
#26 ·
the 300E2.6 ratbenz has come home again, and will be my winter beater car, we're back to 3 benzes, eek.

the ratbenz was /given/ to me for free, it had an intermittent stalling program. it only had 56k miles on it when I got it, odometer still working. it had dents in nearly every body panel from the little old lady original owner in Carmel By the Sea, California. she lost her license, it got parked for 20+ years, a friend inherited it, wasn't a car guy, and $2000 later without fixing problem, gave it to another friend, who found a problem via proper diagnostics, replaced the part CIS airflow potentiometer was measuring open, but the problem persisted. he gave it to me. I tinkered with it, and did all sorts of random stuff, using best available parts (new wires, plugs, cap, rotor, shield), the replacement airflow pot was still reading open, so I actually replaced the whole airflow meter assembly and the boot under it, using the same fuel regulator. ran great for 3-4 weeks, and the problem came back. WTF. I kept trying to figure out why it was so unhappy, finally brought it to this local shop, they foudn the problem in about 30 minutes, airflow leaks, replaced all teh regulators and seals, and its run like a new car ever since. at about 58k miles, the odometer broke. from wear and tear, I'm guessing my kids put about 100K combined miles on it, but its still running reasonably well, and shifts OK considering its a 2.6L slushbox and steers and rides tight.

that was the 'free hit'. nothing cheaper than a free benz, etc etc. hah hah. still loving the 124. after driving that freebie beater/ugly car, I got my wife her very nice rust free 3.2L 124 wagon in her favorite color, bright white, paid $3000... had 240K miles, now has 280k.

i've lost track of what my 'well maintained' 93 300CE Cabriolet has cost me because I haven't really cared to track it. I paid $8k for it with 220K miles in spring 2015. it now has 260k, 4.5 years later... . the engine, transmission have been fine but I've had to deal with a bunch of smaller stuff... most recently, spent $1000 or so fixing power top issues, and I think its due for a round of rear suspension bushings, shocks (it had new Napa (?!?) shocks on it when I bought it). The owner had a huge stack of records, but I didn't really go through them til after I bought it (mistake!)... much of the POs 'routine' service was done by a Napa garage who obviously weren't Mercedes specialists, and other stuff was fixed by an old german indie, who didn't much impress me when I called to ask for clarification on what a service comment meant. Some of my issues are due to me having to park it outslde last winter. its in a carport now, so its staying dry (good thing, we had 10 inches of rain last week!). It is due for some paint (severe clearcoat failure on the hood), and a new top before much longer. I've heard a cherry 124 cabrio is a $12k car, but it would take a good chunk of that to make this cherry again. so instead, I'm gonna ignore the little things, and drive it on sunny days while I can. the top goes up and down and is still intact. the ac and heater works (but the passenger side foot well isn't getting heat?!?).

The Cabrio is still a sweet cruise for around town (I live in a beach town...).

A Mid Left Coast December afternoon, hunkered down...
Thanks. W124 Cabrios still don’t command a very impressive price despite being relatively rare. Maybe in another 10 years. Restoring my ‘95 is out of the question given the resale value. It has been pretty good to me but if faced with an expensive repair I would probably give it up. It doesn’t look like much on cloudy days but with the top down it is a beautiful vehicle. Would miss it on sunny days, though.
 
#25 ·
"Is it a good idea to buy a 200k mile '95 e320 DD that is priced well" Answer: No. High mileage cars are dangerous to buy and should be avoided. There I said it; prove me wrong.

The longer a W124 (or any car) has been driven, the more miles put on it, the better the chance it is near the end of its life. The only caveat is a car that has been well serviced. This forum and others like it have some very dedicated owners on it who either pay someone to repair their car or they do it themselves. Without that dedication, even a W124 is going to end up at the "Receiving" dock at Whirlpool's appliance factory as a recycled piece of sheet metal.

The youngest W124 is now 24 years old, so (sorry history huggers) don't expect to get much from service records. Doubt me? Please... show of hands... who has 24 years of service records for their '95 e320? If you do, you are nearly as rare as factory installed cupholders. The most important thing you can do if buying a W124 or any car for that matter is have an inspection performed by a well informed tech. I don't care if the transmission was rebuilt 100k miles ago or yesterday. What I care about is how it goes into gear, how it shifts, and does it leak? I don't care if the previous owner changed the water pump two years ago. What I do care about is whether or not it is seeping, there is any whining noise coming from the driven pulleys and if there are visible cracks in the serp belt. There is probably another hundred things to look out for and as Jayare says, check the DIY section Buyer's Guide for some great clues as to what to look for. But the reality is, even if for example, the A/C blows cold, most of these cars are now 30 years old. If the service records indicate the compressor was changed fifteen years ago; guess what? That doesn't mean you won't need a compressor next year. Its about condition, condition, condition. And there is no replacement for that.

So back to the original question: Is it a good idea to buy a 200k mile '95 e320 DD that is priced well? Answer: If you or your tech don't know and understand W124s... then, as Clint Eastwood once said; "do you feel lucky"?
 
#27 ·
What really sucks about the cabrios is the complex top mech and all the hydro lines and locks/ latches that go with it. When one goes it's a domino effect, do it all or you will constantly be cleaning that hydro fluid from everything always. Makes such a mess. Other than that a Cabrio is no more or less work to maintain than any other 124, all the same parts. The dome light assembly at the top of the windshield though, that's insanely expensive and not available anymore, so hopefully you never end up with a broken one.
 
#32 ·
the hardest part to remove was that big funny torx screw thats the lower pivot of the main lift pistons, behind the back seat side panels. I had to drill mine one of out and use an easyout, as it stripped a torx bit.



thankfully, with the larger diameter hole I drilled, the easy-out worked quite nicely. and even though as you can see, I missed the center with my drill, it didn't do any damage on whatever was around that part.
 
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