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1990 190e 2.6l Calif. auto 1987 Ford F150 4.9L Calif. man 4OD 4X4 2013 Suzuki C50 Crusier
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Discussion Starter #1
Has anyone replaced the red fuse that has the holder that looks like a bulb holder. this fuse looks like a little board 1/2 inch long with the part that blows made of copper on the board. Also have you replaced it or changed it to a fuseable wire one.I had to order one from the dealer and at $7 I think they over did it .
 

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Either copper trace on the fuse blows or the copper trace on your cluster's circuit board blows. That's why I installed a external fuse/holder, so it's cheaper, easier to get & replace.
 

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1990 190e 2.6l Calif. auto 1987 Ford F150 4.9L Calif. man 4OD 4X4 2013 Suzuki C50 Crusier
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285 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
I just got the fuse from the dealer that I had to order and it was $7. I looked at it and was thinking they over did it on this fuse. cluster lights and rheostat work ok but lights on blower, hvac and window switches will not work unless I put power to the blower wire. I will pull cluster this weekend and pull red fuse and replace it even if it is ok. but hopefuly this is what powers the center console things. ( See my other thread )
 

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1990 190e 2.6l Calif. auto 1987 Ford F150 4.9L Calif. man 4OD 4X4 2013 Suzuki C50 Crusier
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Discussion Starter #5
Cypress. what size fuse did you install in place of red cap fuse?
 

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1990 190e 2.6l Calif. auto 1987 Ford F150 4.9L Calif. man 4OD 4X4 2013 Suzuki C50 Crusier
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Discussion Starter #7
Ok my dash and rheostat lights work fine. I see others here have a problem with the cluster its self getting burnt. so I could wire into another place besides the dash for blower and hvac lights. I will have to think about this some.
 

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1990 190e 2.6l Calif. auto 1987 Ford F150 4.9L Calif. man 4OD 4X4 2013 Suzuki C50 Crusier
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Discussion Starter #8
well after working and fixing the rear broken window wires I switch the center console switches around and I blew the $7 fuse again , so I ordered 4 new window switches online and 2 new fuses from the dealer. I was thinking before I may have blown the fuse when I was checking the window problem but now I am thing the fuse blew from the switch bad inside as the switch did not feel working correctly when moving it.
 

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1990 190e 2.6l Calif. auto 1987 Ford F150 4.9L Calif. man 4OD 4X4 2013 Suzuki C50 Crusier
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Discussion Starter #9
OK, I now have 4 new center console window switches and a new dash fuse in and all is working good at this time.
 

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1990 190e 2.6l Calif. auto 1987 Ford F150 4.9L Calif. man 4OD 4X4 2013 Suzuki C50 Crusier
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285 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
How are you Cypress. I was thinking. It should not matter if you have the OE style or led lights in for circuit protection. All circuits should have some kind of protection. I have lots of testers and one is a tester that I can jump the wires to see how much amps is being used. so if I have the system working ok then I can check to see what is being used and then make a fuse holder that fits somewhere to get to without pulling the dash. So I can put in a 25 cent fuse rather that the $7 MB fuse. I also have a Snap-On $3,000 low current flow meter that I can use. But what is the reason you were saying I could not use a different fuse holder, because I was not using LEDs???????
 

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I use a 1A bussmann glass tube fuse, bc current draw NOW is only ~500mA after I converted all incandescent bulbs to leds...including all the 1.2W bulbs (shifter, ashtray, warning lights on cluster [hand brake, brake, oil, gas, high beam, battery, etc.], turn signal, etc.).

So the 1A fuse won't work for you if you use OE incandescent bulbs, I can assure you it'll be more than 1A. You can actually calculate it...3x3W bulbs, ~15x1.2W bulbs & leds on the windows switches & rear defogger, say ~2W. Total = ~29W
Lets round up to 30W.
I x V = W
W = 30 watts
V = 13.8 volts
therefore "I" Amps = 2.17A

If you didn't know this and used a much larger fuse (ex. 8A), this provides no protection at all. Therefore you need to know what the current draw is 1st before you can choose a correct amperage fuse. That's WHY I said...."won't do you any good" when you asked what fuse size I used.

My understanding the OE fuse is actually a circuit board, when the fuse blows it's the copper trace on the board that burnts. Don't bridge this burnt fuse, see if you can solder two wires to this burnt fuse & insert this back into the fuse holder....if possible, there you have it...you can than attach a external fuse holder onto these two wires.
 

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1990 190e 2.6l Calif. auto 1987 Ford F150 4.9L Calif. man 4OD 4X4 2013 Suzuki C50 Crusier
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Discussion Starter #12
well I can most likely leave that OE fuse in and put my snap-on low current clamp around the blue/gray wire for the lites and then turn on the lights and see what the current flow and also current peek on the amps is and do it that way . then any current draw over that peek would be a short or a problem that a fuse I add in would protect the OE fuse also I bet.
 

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The whole point of doing a external fuse is so you don't have to pull the cluster to get at the OE fuse.
1) I suggest you bridge one of your burnt fuses & stick that back in.
2) Don't use the color of my wire for the ext fuse as the OE color. It's pin# 13 on the 15 pin connector.
3) When checking current draw, cluster lights on, ignition to "2" to turn on all warning lights, emergency light on, high beam warning light on, etc.


My cluster didn't come with the red cap fuse, while working on the window switch..I shorted a couple of wires, the thinnest trace on the board from the dimmer circuit burnt. So I bridged it & added a external fuse.
 

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1990 190e 2.6l Calif. auto 1987 Ford F150 4.9L Calif. man 4OD 4X4 2013 Suzuki C50 Crusier
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Discussion Starter #14
well on the 1990 190e 2.6. I do have a red fuse and it looks like it protects the blower light, HVAC light, center console window lights, the lights on the console for mirror light, fader light , flasher switch light and rear window switch lights, also light on outside temp gauge, So if this fuse is blown you will still have shifter light and all dash cluster and the rehostat will still be working. so the last time I had the dash out I think the wire for these lights is the blue/ gray on going to the back of the cluster. If I check on that wire with my low current probe I can see what the peek current draw is when I turn on the lights and then put a fuse in this wire where it would be easy to get to , But still leave the OE red fues in place because I see no reason to not leave it their after all a fuse is still a wire ( fuseable wire ).
 

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Ah, so on later models they split into two circuits. bc on mine, everything is on one circuit & NO fuse. So when the trace burnt, total darkness...I had to turn on the front dome light so I can shift from "P" to "D" when in a enclosed garage.

So your wiring is different from mine.....I"ll shut up now. :eek:
 

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1990 190e 2.6l Calif. auto 1987 Ford F150 4.9L Calif. man 4OD 4X4 2013 Suzuki C50 Crusier
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Discussion Starter #16
yes they are different. so I think I know the switch wire going to the cluster, so I will test that wire for the peek draw amount. and put a inline fuse in for that by the ashtray or somewhere easy to get to. So like I said I see no reason to pull out and change the red fuse because the other fuse should protect that $7 fuse also. This is the second fuse I had to buy and I also have a spare because the dealer had to order them and not in stock. I do not know the rate for the OE fuse.
 

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1990 190e 2.6l Calif. auto 1987 Ford F150 4.9L Calif. man 4OD 4X4 2013 Suzuki C50 Crusier
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285 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
I also have a tester tool that you can put any flat fuse (ato) in and it gives out a LED reading of the amps for testing a circuit. But the Snap-on Vantage with the low current probe I can set the screen time to what ever I want to to test for peek or what ever. That normal turn on peek current draw is what you want to protect I would say. Anything over that is a short. and I think from what I am seeing is the window switches is going bad inside and blowing the fuse. I now have 4 new center console switches in . Also I think if someone is prying the switches apart from the wiring plug, that maybe what also blows the fuse . you maybe touching the screwdriver to 2 posts then POP.
 

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Digging up thread..... Cypress I need your help on lighting. I converted to an SMD setup. little t10 and wedge. one day my intrument idiot lights on the left side wouldn't work unless I gave the cluster a nudge. Got worse and worse. So undid speedo cable and pulled the cluster out and to the workbench. I am not a genius with circuitry but I found a resistor that looked like it had got hot (on the left side with idiot light issue. I will replace, Radioshack. Checked fuse in red cap, was toast. I have a spare. Curious about that resistor though. probably old. Would I need a bigger fuse in place of that fuse in the red cap? Help appreciated.

UPDATE: before heading to radioshack, tested the smoked resistor, 12.3ohms. At radio shack 12 to 13 ohms, they gave me a 15 ohm. Got home soldered resistor/ put in spare fuse(red cap). took the left half to car to test. Idiot lights worked at self test. I kinda would like to know what was the issue and if I should solder in a standalone fuse for the correct amps? LEDs use less watts than original though.
 
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