[amulder2001]

After breaking into someone else's topic, I would like to start a new thread where we can give general tips and tricks for our B-class.
For example, if you believe you have found a nice modification, accessory, or whatever, please mention it here (photo's appreciated)!

I don't have a clue whether I can make this thread "sticky", but would greatly appreciate a moderator's help here.

My first suggestion is to install a lifehammer + compact fire extinguisher (Sparco Fireater) below the driver's seat. This was discussed previously over here. A pic of the mod. is below. I have made a small tutorial over here (with part numbers); I know my tutorial is in Dutch, but I have added so much photo's that you cannot miss it.

Arjen.

 

[amulder2001]

I would like to add a collection of long-reads on the "brown pest" (a.k.a. "rust") topic.
The rust issue is of particular importance for the owners of the pre-facelift (i.e. prior to summer 2008 production date) models.
You can recognise the post-facelift W245 by a changed front and rear bumper, and the fact that the exterior mirrors have increased in size (i.m.h.o. this is more "elephant style").

The pre-facelift W245 has had a production error. The composition of the steel of the frame of the door, and the covering are different. If you know a little bit of chemistry, you must realise this will cause rust unless... a sealant is applied to the spots where the two metals are in contact.
This sealant has not been applied (enough) so the lower part of the doors and rear hatch WILL rust. The question is not whether yours are affected Y/N, but WHEN they will be affected by the brown pest.

Mercedes-Benz has applied a fine warranty to solve the problem, but... it only lasts for a limited time period. In the Netherlands (where I live) the warranty lasts for a maximum of eight years, whereas I understand from prior postings that e.g. in Canada this is only five years.

If you have purchased or are about to purchase a used pre-facelift W245, then check the doors and rear hatch prior to negotiating a price. If the car has fully dealer serviced, it is more likely that the doors and hatch have been replaced. You can recognise the replaced doors from the old ones by looking at the edges. At the bottom, where the outside has been folded over the frame you should see a shape that looks like a capital "D". The older doors have a way flatter folding.
To illustrate, I have added two photos (LHS picture is old door; RHS picture is new one).

If you wish to read more about the topic, please see e.g. here, here, here, or here.

In addition, some people have reported rust on the inside of their bonnet. See here.
DEVOURS advice is to drill some holes for drainage, and you should be fine.

Lastly, some people on German fora have reported rust on the plates where the springs are fixed (inside the engine compartment). See here (in German, but the photos will explain).

So, if you own a (pre-facelift) W245, what can you do? First of all, check for rust frequently. Second, have the crucial parts (that are expected to rust) sprayed with e.g. Coulan ML. See here for a discussion on protecting yourself.
I have asked my Mercedes-Benz dealer to spray ML on the inside structure of the bonnet, and on the top of the fender plates. See the third photo in this posting.

For more tips, experiences, etc., please use the "Search" option.

Arjen.

 

[DEVOURS]

Well Arjen........This new post does touch on a lot of subjects and might get a little confusing to newbies.

Many of the problems like "red rust" has been laboured in great detail in other postings here,... but seeing another post can only help other B Class newbies. I was not aware of the front spring tower rust,...so good that you brought it up. BTW...We can't see the rear towers very well.....I wonder what's going on there..

I would not ask B owners to drill their older 05,..06,...or early 07 B Class hoods(bonnets) because it's very tricky as the 2 metals are very close to each other and you are almost guaranteed to scratch the inner metal without taking the proper protection before you drill. (ie: sliding a thin narrow metal plate in between the 2 hood plates temporarily before drilling the inner hood will protect against having to add 2 new fancy hood ornaments to your B..) I wonder how much a new hood is anyway?

Reading the above "blue stickies" is a must for all B owners who plan to keep their B awhile. All Canadian B's have the larger mirrors(elephant ) starting back with the first 06's.



There is a post way back talking about hidden goodies that came with all B's.


Arjen ..Thanks again for adding all of the useful links.:thumbsup:

 

[pfsantos]

My first suggestion is to install a lifehammer + compact fire extinguisher (Sparco Fireater) below the driver's seat. This was discussed previously over here. A pic of the mod. is below. I have made a small tutorial over here (with part numbers); I know my tutorial is in Dutch, but I have added so much photo's that you cannot miss it.

Arjen.

Arjen,

In the link to the how-to, I see two generic looking plates and one that seems specifically made to mount on the front underside seat frame? If any of these plates are M-B factory parts, what were they used for originally? Thanks.

 

[amulder2001]

Dear Paulo,

In the "How to" link for mounting the lifehammer + Fireater, the first (overview) photo shows two generic metal strips (with a bunch of pre-drilled holes), which I just sprayed black.
In addition, there is a black metal strip with an exotic shape; that is the Mercedes-Benz original holder for mounting a totally useless 1kg fire extinguisher. In fact in the centre of that metal part, you can see some sort of lip. The idea is that you can slide a plastic holder for the OEM fire extinguisher over that lip.
Since I would not want to be seen with that 1kg fire extinguisher, I just hammered it flat so it would not obstruct my lifehammer or Fireater.
The part no. for the metal holder is A169 912 01 14, which neatly fits all left-hand side driven W245 models. For the RHS drive models you need a slightly different part no.
In order to put the metal part to the seat, you need 4 self-winding screws, part no. MN000000 001346.

So far, the counter is at only EUR 15 or so (one metal holder, 4 screws). The only expensive part of this DIY job is the Fireater.
Best,

Arjen.

Arjen.

 

[amulder2001]

Well Arjen........This new post does touch on a lot of subjects and might get a little confusing to newbies.

Many of the problems like "red rust" has been laboured in great detail in other postings here,... but seeing another post can only help other B Class newbies. I was not aware of the front spring tower rust,...so good that you brought it up. BTW...We can't see the rear towers very well.....I wonder what's going on there..

Thanks Devours, that was the word I was looking for. I hoped the photo would be self-explanatory, but always LOVE to learn. We should not bother about the rear towers. The problem with the front ones is that once water enters the horizontal circular surfaces, it does not easily slide away. Water will enter when you open a wet hood, or maybe even due to heavy rain. In the back of the car, that problem should not exist... I hope :banghead:

I would not ask B owners to drill their older 05,..06,...or early 07 B Class hoods(bonnets) because it's very tricky as the 2 metals are very close to each other and you are almost guaranteed to scratch the inner metal without taking the proper protection before you drill. (ie: sliding a thin narrow metal plate in between the 2 hood plates temporarily before drilling the inner hood will protect against having to add 2 new fancy hood ornaments to your B..) I wonder how much a new hood is anyway?

A new hood will not be super expensive, but if the cost can be avoided, I would give it a try. Great that you mention the caution for drilling: It is HIGHLY recommended to use the pin that metal drillers have that helps you to limit your drilling to a pre-set depth. You know, often just before the rotating head of the drill, there may be a small pin that you can slide out. The slightly more professional drills have a metric scale on it, so you preset e.g. 5mm depth (in this case, LESS).
My suggestion would be to take a caliper gauge, measure the maximum depth in between the hood's subframe and the cover, and then restrict the drill.

Reading the above "blue stickies" is a must for all B owners who plan to keep their B awhile. All Canadian B's have the larger mirrors(elephant ) starting back with the first 06's.

Sorry for the elephant ears; I have once read this qualification and never forgotten it. In Europe the bigger ears/mirrors did not come in until the facelift; ever since I noticed this "upgrade" I am even more happy with my pre-facelift
All the best,

Arjen.

 

[pfsantos]

...shows two generic metal strips (with a bunch of pre-drilled holes), which I just sprayed black.
In addition, there is a black metal strip with an exotic shape; that is the Mercedes-Benz original holder for mounting a totally useless 1kg fire extinguisher......

That's the exact info I was looking for. Thanks. If the group buy goes ahead, that would be a clean way of mounting. I currently have the window breaker/belt cutter on the side of the center tunnel (in the 'net') which is not too bad, but your way is perfect.

 

[amulder2001]

The problem with the net is... if you make a rollover, you safety belt will not allow you to learn forward and make it to the net.
Now that would be a sad end... knowing you have the lifehammer, but cannot grab it.
With my solution, your right (free) shoulder still has enough movement to bend forward and grab the hammer (or Fireater).
Since both items are slims, they will not obstruct/hinder/irritate your heels (as the OEM fire extinguisher would).
Now let's hope you can do the group buy :thumbsup:

Arjen.

 

[pfsantos]

Lol, I completely agree the net is far from perfect. In a rollover the stuff could very easily fly out.

Story time - Speaking of rollover, I was in one in 2003, in my Dad's W123 (see profile...he got it fixed with a donor roof from a swiss W123 that the prev. owner wasn't able to legalize). This happened in Portugal on vacation. Car had around 30,000km (now a bit more, maybe 33-34k) and original tires. Some lessons you learn the hard way. Tire blew on the highway, wife was driving, and we went into the ditch between the two ways at an angle, backwards (no guardrail). I leaned over to turn the steering wheel more, as she didn't correct enough and fast. Good thing I was leaning over to reach the wheel as once the car stopped the roof was down near my shoulders. Everyone was ok, but the girl in the back almost lost consciousness due to shock. I reached, turned off ignition, asked my wife if she was ok (she was almost hysterical, lol)...she said yes...then I said get the fu*k out...and I helped push her out (we had to crawl out her side). I was worried there could be a fire. My buddy and his wife and a couple were behind in a rental car. They saw everything...from the tire smoke from popping, to the car disappearing backwards into the ditch and the cloud of dust. LOL. Buddy came over as we were leaving the car, and asked about the girl in the back. I had forgotten about her (for about 10 seconds though). She may have bumped her head but was ok, albeit in shock. Oh, the seat belts, although under tension, released with no problems. The car was fixed about two years later, and I made my dad put on new tires (I paid for them and gave him no excuse). He insisted on fixing the car (crazy, but more due to sentimental reasons since it was bought new when we were living in Germany), and spent around EUR 8,000. Anyways, off topic but I know some hear like my crazy (never made up though) stories.

edit: I opened my eyes cuz I just had to see if death was coming...but all I saw was dust and the ground moving away from the roof (car was sliding backwards, according to the police sketch of the accident report, about 70-80m). My sweet beige spring jacket (almost brand new) that I had just dry cleaned in Canada after getting a spot on it from working on the car here was on the rear shelf. It ended ripped and with the car's paint on it!!!! But I brought it home. There are a few details I'm missing, but that's the gist of it, lol.

 

[amulder2001]

Yuk! Horrible story; luckily you all came out unhurt (except for the car).
I share your preoccupation that a car may catch fire after such accident. Hell, you don't want to ruin it just because you did not invest a few $$$ on an extinguisher.
Enjoy your weekend,

Arjen.

P.S.: Where was this story taking place? I have driven most parts except for the North of Portugal. Just curious.

 

[pfsantos]

^ About 2h south of Lisbon, on the A2 heading south to a friends wedding in the Algarve.

Clock stopped at 2:12pm lol. I have pictures somewhere on a CD and buddy made a video of the car in the ditch/valley/whatever after the accident. Too bad he wasn't filming before - to this day he says he can see it happening in his head, lol. All my ID was in the trunk, which couldn't open cuz it was touching the ground. Buddy stayed with his passengers at the car 'till it was towed. Girls (wife and friend) and I transported to Castro Verde, then Beja as a precaution, then the girls to Lisbon cuz they were worried about the friend's brain just in case, and I stayed at the Police Station waiting for info where the car was towed. My buddy (and his pass.) found me there, watching a soap on TV. I was hoping they'd find me lol!

 

[DEVOURS]

Yuk! Horrible story; luckily you all came out unhurt.......

No...No...No...!!!..That's a great story because no one really got hurt,...and you have now become a certified member of that rare...."Upside Down Club".



Easy to see how we often get off track here...

 

[Mike Tee]

I once rolled a Renault 10, its engine was running upside down (downdraft carb became updraft!). Fun! I shut it off of course.

 

[pfsantos]

Lol @ Mike. But I should get back on topic lol so here:

Recommended mod: Underhood light.

I wonder if any B's overseas come with an underhood/bonnet light, which would come with a hood switch (Arjen and a few others, I'm looking at you, lol). If not, I wonder if the factory alarm uses a hood switch, that you could retrofit, and then use to turn on a light installed after.

 

[DEVOURS]

Very handy indeed.....seeing as from Dec to Feb the nights are sooooo long up here.

 

[amulder2001]

Dear Paulo and Devours, thanks for expanding the list, and yes, I agree; I guess the under hood light would be a nice addition to the W245. It was never installed on the European models either. Maybe some supersticious engineer thought it would be a self-fulfilling prophecy to install one, and therefore left it out?

I retrofitted the alarm system, and there is a contact spring to the engine hood lock. Yet, that one flips on and will blow a fuse when you open the hood whilst the alarm is on.
I do not dare to tap into my alarm system, as I cannot overlook the consequences of that kind of hobbyism

I was thinking of an extra detector, refrigerator style.
This does sound like a nice (and not so expensive) DIY project. Let's see what we can work out over the upcoming months. For the time being I'm a bit busy with what you guys have as a standard feature :crybaby2:; power windows in the back, and one-touch window functionality on all four.

Thereafter I would like to cover my door interiors in nappa leather (to match the seats) and then I finally install my last pieces of designo wood (Devours: Once done, I will add some photos under "show off your Benz").

I'll get back on the under hood light. The ML has had it (don't know about the current version). Since our W245 shares some features with the W164, I hope it was that model. I'll check out the EPC.

Best,

Arjen.

 

[pfsantos]

there is a contact spring to the engine hood lock. Yet, that one flips on and will blow a fuse when you open the hood whilst the alarm is on.

Please explain. I'm confused again re: 'contact spring' and blowing a fuse, lol! But seriously, is there a switch built in on the hood lock, or maybe just on those with alarms? If the latter, maybe a switch for it can be be retrofitted if the lock on cars without alarm has a place for it?

I could go buy a universal hood switch and drill on the fender lip as most aftermarket alarm places do, but I really like to do things 'nice and cleanly', whenever possible.

 

[DEVOURS]

I'm less inclined to mod my B compared to the many mods that I've added to some of my previous cars.

A simple hood switch or mercury switch would easily work on any car
....but I've also found that adding non OE parts can be problematic as they often fail at a much faster rate than the OE parts.

But I am guilty of installing the aftermarket HID's,... and so far they work perfectly well and I can see so much better. ..and if I had the chance and could find all of the interior wood pieces, I would definitely install these wood pieces in a heartbeat........:thumbsup:

 

[Samoila Stefan]

True story, Devours

 

[amulder2001]

Please explain. I'm confused again re: 'contact spring' and blowing a fuse, lol! But seriously, is there a switch built in on the hood lock, or maybe just on those with alarms?

Hmmm.. guilty for profoundly confusing you again, I presume? If you have the MB class 3 alarm system, then an electronic contact switch is pressed into the hood lock. If the alarm is on, and if someone tries to open the engine hood, then the electronic switch will signal, and a fuse will blow. If the fuse is blown, there is no way you can open the hood; has to be done by the dealer.

I think it is more efficient to first check how the under hood light was installed in the ML-class (W163 or W164) and then see what we can replicate here.

Arjen.