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1982 300CD
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5,162 Posts
The kit is $15-$20, the rebuilts are $65-$70.

From what I understand, you can't scratch the sides or it will leak.
You have to have the pistons set at 10 degrees (forward?) or it will squeak.

I said screw it, if they leak or squeak, it will be someone else's fault and they can fix them.

Is the piece of mind worth $50?. It is to me.

Also, if I screwed it up, I would be spending $20 on the kit and then $70 more on the rebuilts. I didn't feel confident enough to risk it. Besides, the bolts were rusted into the caliper.
 

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Registered
1977 W123.123 1995 W124.034
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3,919 Posts
i just got rebuilt ones in mine since i dont know enough about rebuilding calipers
 

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Premium Member
W-1-2-3 Go!
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16,161 Posts
When the skill and learning curve to rebuild something is more costly time-wise and resources-wise than just buying a rebuilt item, it's already a lost cause.

Then again, that's for us who aren't exactly mechanics but know some DIY.

Axle CV boots
Brake calipers
Transmission/engine
Injector pump
Etc...

If you have the luxury of time and resources (you have another car?) then it would be feasible. Question is, are you up to it? I remember you replaced the starter yourself? And some other tidbits too (was it the modulator/neutral safety switch you also replaced?).
 

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1983 TurboDiesel
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110 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
yeah thats true I have replaced: alternator, starter, vacump pump, nuetral saftey switch . . . I just thought someone here might have rebuild their caliper before and I just wanted to get some info before making a choice because this will be my first time doing it. I'm probably leaning towards getting a rebuilt one, less effort and risk. thx for the advice guys I appreciate it

samson
 
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