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96 E320
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181 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Anyone try one of these $13 regulator repair kits? Do they work?


The $13 is more attractive than $70+ for the assembly w/o motor. This assumes that the plastic guide is what failed. I think this is usually the case, no? I haven't pulled my rear driver door card yet. So I don't know if this is my case, yet. Would be even cooler to not need to drill out the rivets to remove the metal track...

Edit: fcpeuro.com has a Myle regulator for $40. So not that bad. Just don't know how long it will last but fcp has a lifetime guarantee, I think.
 

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2008 E350 110k, 2000 E320 143k, 1983 380SEC 240k
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927 Posts
Just buy the regulator and transplant the motor. Not much more and a lot simpler.
 

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1998 e430
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375 Posts
the white plastic part that holds the cable ends is the weak link. last time i replaced the regulator, i added some epoxy in an attempt to strengthen that flimsy piece. been several years now!
 

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96 E320
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181 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Would be nice if someone made a metal clip to replace the plastic one. I saw a video that someone does that for a Saab regulator. Don’t know about for our cars. Ah well.
 

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Outstanding Contributor , SDS Guru
1998 MB E300TD, 1997 MB E36 AMG, 2001 MB E55 AMG
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3,541 Posts
Just buy the chinese window regulator. $20 shipped. Even if you end up replacing it every year, that still beats the $150+ or whatever that the MB dealer charges for it. You'd have to do it 7 years in a row before breaking even.

FWIW, I'm still on year 4 on my chinese rear window regulators.

 

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E320/E250 Bluetec Ford F350 6.7l
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36,362 Posts
It is the yellow slider on Turkisch listing that breaks 95% of the time.
Historically the strongest slider replacement was "green thing" sold by autohousaz

You can buy whole regulator as Deplore linked, but those have poor reliability records, or buy green thing and follow the pictorial we have on the forum how to replace it.
About 20 minutes job and original cables are superior to any replacement.
 
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