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1989 300E
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
As I've seen in peach parts and at least one other post, this tool part # 115 589 02 07 00 is required to remove a hard-to-get-to nut.

I guess my question is, at $176.75, is this tool absolutely necessary for this job? It looks like it is...

So... $176.75?

:crybaby2:
 

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1979 & 1985 300D's
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There are several "special" tools that make the rear bearing job less painful from what I gather.

You could always see if anyone will rent one for you over in the PeachParts.com tool rental section.
 

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1985 300D
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As I've seen in peach parts and at least one other post, this tool part # 115 589 02 07 00 is required to remove a hard-to-get-to nut.

I guess my question is, at $176.75, is this tool absolutely necessary for this job? It looks like it is...

So... $176.75?

:crybaby2:
I would be curious to know this answer as well. I recently bought a 85 300D and want to look at the bearings over the summer, too cold right now.
 

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1989 300E
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks, uber. Yeah I saw that, but I am not a member. I may have to have two different internet accounts now for my car habit. Good grief.

hahaa
 

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1989 300E
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I would be curious to know this answer as well. I recently bought a 85 300D and want to look at the bearings over the summer, too cold right now.
Tell me about it, there is a cold front everywhere. Found this from someone who posted in Peach: Homemade Slot Nut Socket

Pretty cool. I could surely do that with the right tools...

Mmm...Déjà vu
 

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1989 300E
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Found cheaper alternative?

Alright gentlemen, I believe this to be a decent replacement. Please feel free to chime in if I am incorrect about this. I would rather be incorrect now rather than later :eek:

So this is what I have found: Pelican Parts.com - Groove Nut Socket For Rear Axle Bearing, R107, W114, W115, W116, W123, W126 Chassis

And this is a PDF regarding the same: http://www.baumtools.com/pdf/MB_Rear_Axle.pdf

The problem is, it looks identical to this guy:

part # 115 589 02 07 00 as indicated above.

The question is: is it exactly the same!? :eek:
I think it is...
 

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1989 300E
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
On the ball today

Okay everyone, here is one more candidate that I came across. The only issue I see with this is that is also looks exactly the same. But why on this ebay listing is it not specified for the W123 as well, like on PP? $32 is a heck of a lot better than $75, and a far cry from the initial $176.25.

Sunex-Bear-Axle-Flange-Nut-Socket

Anyway, at any rate, I think these will work out okay. Just wanted to hear some additional thoughts.
 

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1989 300E
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Here is the same tool on the Northern Tool site for $25:

Sunex Bear Axle Flange Nut Socket, Model# 10203 | Axle Nuts Sockets| Northern Tool + Equipment

Or on Amazon:

Sunex 10203 Axle Flange Nut Socket - Amazon.com

If it says it works on 126 cars it would work on 123 as they are the same rear end design.

For the price it seems worth a try.
uber, thanks for the additional post my man, and the clarification of the style of rear ends we are all working with. And I agree, well worth the try.
 

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If you pull the trigger and use it for the job let us know.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
If you pull the trigger and use it for the job let us know.
Absolutely. My eyes are on this project and the carrier bearing which I've mentioned in another post. Probably will do it all in one go, which means I am still sourcing out all the parts I'll be needing.
 

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Just out of curiosity, are you experiencing problems with your bearings or doing preventative maintenance?
 

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Yep, already printed it out. Thanks for making this a strong thread. More later.
Did the thread happen to mention that Slide Hammering out or using an Old Brake Rotor installed reversed to beat on to gat the Hub out damages the Bearings.

"I did the following, I Used a brass drift to hammer out the hub from under the car. I hammered it out about ½ inch"
The above is from the Thread. I advise not using any sort of Punch on end of the Hub. The metal is too thin and some People have damaged that end of the Hub using a Punch.
Some People have put the Punch on the inside to avoid damaging the threaded area only to have that end of the Hub Shaft expand.

A new Hub is $320+ each. Pulling a used Hub from the Junk Yard is a lot of work.
 

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I didn't, no.

Hub puller instead...

Any idea if a universal one such as those available for rent at auto parts stores will suffice?
 

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1981 W123 300D non turbo, 1992 190E 1.8 <=> 2.0
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Depends on what you mean by hub puller.

If you mean this sort of thing =>

4 Piece Three-Jaw Puller Set

Then no it won't work.


The problem with these hubs is that you need to have a reacting force on a part of the trailing arm behind the hub (the bit your are pulling off). There is no where to "react" against in the centre of the hub so you need to hook something around the sides of the hub and on to the brake shield area (which is delicate and easily knackered). You must find a strong bit of the trailing arm.

I managed to do the job with threaded bar and bits of wood - but I don't think many people are keen on this idea!

W123 rear wheel bearing removal help needed - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum (You have to log in to see the pictures - as they are held in one my albums on the site and are not as normal attachments)

Other than that there was a good tube affair made here =>

Home Made Special Tools, This is where members can share how they made special tools - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum

I wouldn't be using a hammer and punch to drive out the hub.

Here's what I've done recently on a W201 hub (but wheel carrier was removed)

PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum - View Single Post - Achtung - Das schweinhund baby benz thread

Similar problem but slightly different!
 

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I've read bad things about the knock off special tool for that sodding slotted hut. I bought the special tool from the dealer and had no trouble what so ever. Great tool - perfect - well lush (sodding expensive)
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Just out of curiosity, are you experiencing problems with your bearings or doing preventative maintenance?
Trying to eliminate back-end noise. Not really sure what is going on. Differential looked good (without taking it a part that is), Flex disc seems okay, and because of the "whirring and then whining" noise when accelerating and decelerating, I'm inclined to think that it's a bearing going out. I'm also fairly certain that the drive shaft carrier bearing is shot as well as the support, so I will be changing that as well.

I know the noise would be specific to one side if it were in fact a failing wheel bearing, but I figured I might as well get 'em both done. And if it is not that, then at least it will be good to get some fresh ones in there.

That's about it though. She rides real smooth, but the noise back there is just killing me. When I first got the car I was pretty sure it was an exhaust leak, as the whirring and whining noise and the fact that I could smell fumes made complete sense. The exhaust looks fine though, and I've since found a badly leaking fuel hose next to the pump right underneath the gas tank. And that leaves only a couple more options and brings me to where I am today.
 
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