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Discussion Starter #1
Hello, soon will be winter in my country and i need to change tyres so i wanted to check cars suspension. I found that rear torque strut is worn out. (See in picture). Is someone has change it? Do i really need to take off subframe or there is other options?
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Discussion Starter #2
Maybe someone can post instruction from MB WIS about this part replacement. Thanks so much
 

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S500 W220 SLK320 R170 C200 CDI W203 Peugeot Expert Van
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Hi,

I don't take the Subframe out ................

I do them by using 4 x 500 mm lengths of Studding, weld a Nut on the end of each, then run another Nut right down next to that, (same thread as Subframe bolts obviously) ;)

Remove one Subframe Bolt at a time, Screw the studs in one at a time about 8 to 10 turns each using the welded nuts, and then run the free Nut up to nip each corner of Subframe, then when you've got all 4 in, lower the Subframe by winding down the 4 Nuts evenly until enough room to get the Bolts out of the Arms to replace them ;)

Note that I will always do all of the Arms both sides at the same time, use either Febi Bilstein or Lemfoerder Rear Arm Kit, fit them and forget them for another 15 years ;)

HTH,
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Nice idea! But do you take of driveshaft or brake lines or something like that? Or you just lower subframe and don't take anything off?
 

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Hi,

I don't take the Subframe out ................

I do them by using 4 x 500 mm lengths of Studding, weld a Nut on the end of each, then run another Nut right down next to that, (same thread as Subframe bolts obviously) ;)

Remove one Subframe Bolt at a time, Screw the studs in one at a time about 8 to 10 turns each using the welded nuts, and then run the free Nut up to nip each corner of Subframe, then when you've got all 4 in, lower the Subframe by winding down the 4 Nuts evenly until enough room to get the Bolts out of the Arms to replace them ;)

Note that I will always do all of the Arms both sides at the same time, use either Febi Bilstein or Lemfoerder Rear Arm Kit, fit them and forget them for another 15 years ;)

HTH,
Can you tell me a little bit more about this job
 

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I've also done this job, on the wife's 2000 S500. You do not have to remove the driveshaft or brake lines. I replaced everything on the right-hand side. Turns out the car didn't need it, but I'd already bought new parts (Lemfoerder, Rein, and Genuine-MB), so I figured, it'd be a good learning experience. You will need 12-point Torx-like sockets, of male gender, to do this job, as some of the suspension bolts do use 12-point Torx-type heads.

The only part of the suspension that you need to lower the sub-frame for is that torque strut. Everything else can be done without lowering the subframe.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I've also done this job, on the wife's 2000 S500. You do not have to remove the driveshaft or brake lines. I replaced everything on the right-hand side. Turns out the car didn't need it, but I'd already bought new parts (Lemfoerder, Rein, and Genuine-MB), so I figured, it'd be a good learning experience. You will need 12-point Torx-like sockets, of male gender, to do this job, as some of the suspension bolts do use 12-point Torx-type heads.

The only part of the suspension that you need to lower the sub-frame for is that torque strut. Everything else can be done without lowering the subframe.
So you don't take anything off, just loosen 4 bolts for subframe until you can to take out bolt that holds torque strut?
 

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W220 Moderator
S500 W220 SLK320 R170 C200 CDI W203 Peugeot Expert Van
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Hi,

I was describing the DIY procedure to lower the Subframe, without removal, not how I do the whole job, because lowering it rather than total removal is easier for a DIY who is likely working on the ground off a small Trolley Jack !!

These days I usually find that there are other Jobs that need doing above the Subframe, (Metal and Rubber Pipes), and as I am a Workshop owner and use a Lift and Transmission Jack, I find it easier to take the whole unit out and address everything whilst in their ;)
If the Exhaust plays nice, I can have a Subframe out in an hour :D

Regarding DIY and Lowering Procedure ...............

TBH it is basic mechanical procedures ................

I would advise taking the Bottom Bolt out of each Strut it allows everything to come down easier, also the Height Sensor(-s) Linkage(-s) should be undone, easiest way on an Airmatic Car is to mark where the adjustment is and remove the centre Bolt ............... ABC Car has 2 Height Sensors, un bolt their Couplers from the Lower Arm each side !!

Also un bolt the Calipers and slide them off the Discs, cable tie them to the metal Bracket for the metal Brake Pipe each side, so as not to stress the Hoses, and finally un hook the Rear Exhaust Rubber Mounts.

Propshaft can stay as can Wiring for brake wear indicators and ABS, just be mindful it's there, perhaps un clip a couple of it's clips to gain a little more "slack"

HTH,
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I was describing the procedure to lower the Subframe, not how I do the whole job.

TBH it is basic mechanical procedures ................

I do take the Bottom Bolt out of the Shock Absorbers it allows it to come down easier, also the Height Sensor(-s) Linkage(-s) gets undone, easiest way on an Airmatic Car is to mark where the adjustment is and remove the centre bolt ............... ABC Car has 2 Height Sensors, un bolt their couplers from the Lower Arm each side !!

Also I un bolt the Calipers and slide them off the Discs, cable tie them to the metal Bracket for the metal Brake Pipe each side, so as not to stress the Hoses, and finally I un hook the Rear Exhaust Rubber Mounts.

Propshaft can stay as can Wiring for brake wear indicators and ABS, just be mindful it's there, perhaps un clip a couple of it's clips to gain a little more "slack"

HTH,
Thank you man! I do lots of jobs in garage by myself, but this was first time to do job such as this where you need to lower subframe, for my previous cars I never needed a procedure like this.
 

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Hi @tusabes ,

Rear Ends are pretty much the same design / setup on all MB's.

Smaller sizing scale on the W203's, R170's etc ..............

The W220 and C215's are the largest Diffs, Arms, Subframe etc and the R230's are on the same size scale ;)
CLK's and E's seem to be in the middle size wise, but yeah, they're pretty much all the same design, and it does work jolly well and hard before it gives grief ;)

HTH,
 

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"... You will need 12-point Torx-like sockets, of male gender, ..."

These are "XZN" OR "Triple-Square" spline sockets. You will not need them often, but when you do need them, you will usually need really GOOD quality tools, as that type of fastener is usually pretty tight.

This appears to a pretty good set...
 

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Lisle brand spline sockets are what I happen to use, and they seem to be pretty good as well. Made in USA, too.
 

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The sockets you need are E Torx = FEMALE ;)
 

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When you lower the rear subframe, take care not to rotate the subframe significantly, as viewed from the side. The differential needs to be kept approximately in line with the rear section of the propshaft. That's because the propshaft is kept in line with the diff flange with a rear facing male extension that engages with a sort of female journal bearing, and the clearance isn't huge. It will accommodate a few degrees of rotation. It's not something you'd want to bend.

Nick
 
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