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1986/1990 W126
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Theres a guy on a UK club that fitted some other MB rear blind, it looked great. If i come across it i'll try and post a link.
 

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1991
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Yep - they work perfectly in all my 126's that have them.

They are simple mechanical items - spring loaded blinds. Mostly it's a case of either a tired motor or the spring tension weak, both easily fixed.


talbir
Resurrecting this as I have a question to Talbir, you say spring tension is weak, is there a spring in the shade that should retract it from the up position? If I pull mine up it just stays up and I have to rewind it by hand. I have a new nylon cord and I understand how it would push up the blind, but how will the blind come down, as there is no physical connection between the nylon cord and the plastic bit the goes into the guide rail. Unless I m missing a part I dont get how this works.

Thanks
 

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1989 560SEC, 1989 560SEL, 1995 E420
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Resurrecting this as I have a question to Talbir, you say spring tension is weak, is there a spring in the shade that should retract it from the up position? If I pull mine up it just stays up and I have to rewind it by hand. I have a new nylon cord and I understand how it would push up the blind, but how will the blind come down, as there is no physical connection between the nylon cord and the plastic bit the goes into the guide rail. Unless I m missing a part I dont get how this works.

Thanks
The shade should roll itself back into the holder. Maybe the internal spring has broken. Remove the end that has a flat 'axle'. Clamp a Vise Grip on the end and twist a few times to see if you can wind some tension back into the roll. You want to twist in the direction of parking the shade.
 

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87 Euro500HVSEC. 88 Euro 560HVSEC. 89 Euro 560HVSEL
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4,227 Posts
I am actually working on my rear sun-shade blind in the 560SEL right now.
The parcel shelf is out and i have tested the motor which works fine

I am missing the steel guide rod that attaches to upper window bracket
I need a new nylon teethed cord as the old one was broken and i have wound out what was left of it.

If anybody can point me in the right direction to source those two parts it would be most appreciated - email [email protected]
 

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1991 560SEC / 2013 GL550
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The shade should roll itself back into the holder. Maybe the internal spring has broken. Remove the end that has a flat 'axle'. Clamp a Vise Grip on the end and twist a few times to see if you can wind some tension back into the roll. You want to twist in the direction of parking the shade.
Is it possible to take this apart? I have two rear sun shade units - the one that goes to my car and an extra. The extra has good tension. Mine though gets stuck. It'll eventually wind back up if you pull it all the way out :(
 

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1989 560SEL, 1979 Cressida MX32, 2006 F150 Lariat
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Yes you can disassemble the rear shade. Be extremely careful as the tension on the inner spring will unwind. It's been been several years since I repaired my rear shade but I do remember taking mine apart and the reason was the shade would go up but not down. With good motor and a new toothed rope all I did was add a few turns on one end to give the spring more tension.
 

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1991 560SEC / 2013 GL550
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Yes you can disassemble the rear shade. Be extremely careful as the tension on the inner spring will unwind. It's been been several years since I repaired my rear shade but I do remember taking mine apart and the reason was the shade would go up but not down. With good motor and a new toothed rope all I did was add a few turns on one end to give the spring more tension.
Thanks, Grumpy- after hearing this, I went ahead and gave it a go

I carefully let out the tension and then pulled out the spring mechanism. Basically, the roller has two black plugs on it
  • One of the plugs just has a rod which goes through a hole. This is not attached to the spring, it just rotates
  • The other plug has the spring attached to it
Here's what the entire spring looks like when you pull it out

2605797


You can see the black "plug" part that goes into the roller. One side of the spring goes through the metal rod and the other side is attached to this black plug

2605798


With no tension on the spring, I put both ends in... made sure the rod on the rotating part was going through the hole and then sat the other side up like this

2605799


You can bend the part that the rod goes through and move it out of the way. I found it easiest to use two sets of pliers; one to hold the rod, the other to turn it counter-clockwise. Once you've got good tension, then you can bend that tab back into place and let the rod snap into place
 

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1989 560SEL, 1979 Cressida MX32, 2006 F150 Lariat
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Thanks, Grumpy- after hearing this, I went ahead and gave it a go

I carefully let out the tension and then pulled out the spring mechanism. Basically, the roller has two black plugs on it
  • One of the plugs just has a rod which goes through a hole. This is not attached to the spring, it just rotates
  • The other plug has the spring attached to it
Here's what the entire spring looks like when you pull it out

View attachment 2605797

You can see the black "plug" part that goes into the roller. One side of the spring goes through the metal rod and the other side is attached to this black plug

View attachment 2605798

With no tension on the spring, I put both ends in... made sure the rod on the rotating part was going through the hole and then sat the other side up like this

View attachment 2605799

You can bend the part that the rod goes through and move it out of the way. I found it easiest to use two sets of pliers; one to hold the rod, the other to turn it counter-clockwise. Once you've got good tension, then you can bend that tab back into place and let the rod snap into place
Excellent job there! Glad you got it sorted out.
 

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1989 560SEC, 1989 560SEL, 1995 E420
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Thanks, Grumpy- after hearing this, I went ahead and gave it a go

I carefully let out the tension and then pulled out the spring mechanism. Basically, the roller has two black plugs on it
  • One of the plugs just has a rod which goes through a hole. This is not attached to the spring, it just rotates
  • The other plug has the spring attached to it
Here's what the entire spring looks like when you pull it out

View attachment 2605797

You can see the black "plug" part that goes into the roller. One side of the spring goes through the metal rod and the other side is attached to this black plug

View attachment 2605798

With no tension on the spring, I put both ends in... made sure the rod on the rotating part was going through the hole and then sat the other side up like this

View attachment 2605799

You can bend the part that the rod goes through and move it out of the way. I found it easiest to use two sets of pliers; one to hold the rod, the other to turn it counter-clockwise. Once you've got good tension, then you can bend that tab back into place and let the rod snap into place
bsclifton, great to see these pics. Not sure if this is what you're describing but for tension adjustment, I clamp a pair of needle nose ViceGrips on the flat of the axle, inline with the axle itself (not 90 degrees to it). Then, due to the shape of the slot in the tab, you can rotate the rod counterclockwise out of it, use the VGs to rotate less or more tension, and rotate it back into the tab. I think bending the tab is only necessary if you need to slide the rod out completely. To increase tension, rotate toward closing the shade.

Be careful with overtensioning. You just want enough for the shade to retract. I'm afraid mine was overtensioned when I got it and it destroyed the drive gear.
 

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1991 560SEC / 2013 GL550
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OK folks - finally got my rear shade fixed, put back together, and still working even after I put it and the rear interior back in :p

@luckymike after you mentioned overtensioning, I tested it out. Laid a towel over the back seats, put the rear shade unit on the seats, fed the rod (that connects to the roof) in manually, and then operated the unit. It would go up, but got stuck about 75% of the way. I went to Bass Pro Shop and got a fish scale, in an attempt to measure the tension.
2606012



This is a simple unit that you can put something on the hook and it measures the weight and costs about $30. I'd rather have a proper tool that measures force in newton-meters, but I think this works fine (since those are like $300 or more).

I tested by having the shade all the way in (retracted) and then hooking the black plastic part that's actually attached to the shade. I then pulled the shade up at an angle (like it would come out in the car) about 2 or 3 inches and got a reading of 14 oz (this is "overtensioned"). Part of that 14 oz is the actual weight of the top of the plastic rod that's on the shade (which I think is like 3 oz). But the additional "weight" registering is the force of the tensioned spring. I loosened up the spring and for me, 7 oz was the magic number. This is enough that the spring operates when doing it by hand and does pull the shade in and it's not too much for the motor. As the shade extends up, it does add additional tension to the spring

Every time I make progress, something stupid would happen. I put everything together nice and neat and somehow, the cord shot out (missing the big vertical rod) and fed itself into a nook in the shade assembly :mad: Being so close to having this solved, I took a few deep breaths and carefully pulled that out (and fed back into the motor)
2606013


You can also see, the plastic part that holds the 3rd brake light is completely jacked up. Unless you've replaced it with a new unit or your car has never been in the sun, you're probably going to break that. Don't forget to feed the wires through before you put the hat tray back in! (ask me how I know!)

Some additional tips:
  • Taking out the shade spring (as shown in my previous pics) is pretty easy and worth doing. When you take it out, there's lots of lint in certain areas and it's worth cleaning that out. Also, lubing up the spring with some silicone spray is a good idea
  • When putting the shade back in, make sure the "arms" that hold the middle rod in place are NOT bent (on both the top and the side). Since you need to bend it to take the spring out, get a pair of pliers and bend it back into shape, making sure it's straight. This is important so that the shade doesn't catch the edges and results in the shade getting stuck
  • There's a retaining clip near the edge of the spring. You'll want to make sure that isn't bent when doing the tension. If it's bent (like mine was), it might rub and the shade will get stuck
  • The center rod may have bends which make it harder for the motor to push the cord. You can take this out, use a small jewelers flathead screwdriver and then take the rod out of the assembly. I spent about 5 minutes bending it as straight as I could by hand and it made a big difference (helped make the operation more smooth)
  • When screwing in the rod to the ceiling, there should be 3 washers for each screw. Use some tape to hold those in place so that you don't accidentally drop the screw and/or washers all over the place
 

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1991 560SEC / 2013 GL550
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Here we go - the final product. Enjoy!
 

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1989 560SEC, 1989 560SEL, 1995 E420
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bsclifton, two things.

But first, AWESOME posts! The sunshade is a super cool feature and it's great to see the kind of detail you're providing.

1. I don't know what you mean by three washers on each screw for the top bracket. My car (also SEC) just has the screws going straight into the bracket. They are the screw heads with a taper underneath that matches a taper in the bracket. Could you take a pic of yours?

2. Does your shade raise any faster when the engine is running? Mine is considerably faster than yours and I wonder if you still have some friction somewhere.
 

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1991 560SEC / 2013 GL550
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bsclifton, two things.

But first, AWESOME posts! The sunshade is a super cool feature and it's great to see the kind of detail you're providing.

1. I don't know what you mean by three washers on each screw for the top bracket. My car (also SEC) just has the screws going straight into the bracket. They are the screw heads with a taper underneath that matches a taper in the bracket. Could you take a pic of yours?

2. Does your shade raise any faster when the engine is running? Mine is considerably faster than yours and I wonder if you still have some friction somewhere.
Super glad you liked it - and hopefully these are useful for people working on this area :)

1. Basically, the part attached to the rod that screws into the roof/headliner... The screw goes in from the bottom and on the other side has 3 washers on each screw. When screwed in fully, this leaves a gap of about 3mm between the metal itself and the headliner. Mine had never been removed, so this definitely appears to be stock

2. I fired up the car and didn't notice any difference in speed, unfortunately. The only thing I can think of: I did use a Volvo antenna mast (per recommendation by @KRH- link to ebay here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/323733323144). I took out the existing MB cord (which was in questionable shape), matched the length using the cord in the antenna and cut. The size of the teeth is a little different, which might explain some of the difference. Also, it's possible the cord is slightly larger than the stock MB one and is physically rubbing on the metal. This would be easy enough to fix with an XACTO knife (just shave off the extra bits). For now, I'm leaving it alone man! :D

In this journey, I did buy an extra entire unit, so I have a full spare. I salvaged parts from it and kept the best of anything available. If anyone is wanting to add one, I might be willing to part with my extras. I don't have an extra black rod that holds the shade though... but I do have the full wiring harness, coin tray, and button
 

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1989 560SEC, 1989 560SEL, 1995 E420
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Super glad you liked it - and hopefully these are useful for people working on this area :)

1. Basically, the part attached to the rod that screws into the roof/headliner... The screw goes in from the bottom and on the other side has 3 washers on each screw. When screwed in fully, this leaves a gap of about 3mm between the metal itself and the headliner. Mine had never been removed, so this definitely appears to be stock

2. I fired up the car and didn't notice any difference in speed, unfortunately. The only thing I can think of: I did use a Volvo antenna mast (per recommendation by @KRH- link to ebay here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/323733323144). I took out the existing MB cord (which was in questionable shape), matched the length using the cord in the antenna and cut. The size of the teeth is a little different, which might explain some of the difference. Also, it's possible the cord is slightly larger than the stock MB one and is physically rubbing on the metal. This would be easy enough to fix with an XACTO knife (just shave off the extra bits). For now, I'm leaving it alone man! :D

In this journey, I did buy an extra entire unit, so I have a full spare. I salvaged parts from it and kept the best of anything available. If anyone is wanting to add one, I might be willing to part with my extras. I don't have an extra black rod that holds the shade though... but I do have the full wiring harness, coin tray, and button
Oh, wow. That makes complete sense about the 3mm gap. My car didn't come with a shade so I unknowingly installed that bracket with just the screws. Oy. Now I hate to go look at the permanent impression the bracket must have made...

I agree with you, once these things are working, leave them alone. I have had mine out numerous times for various repairs and have started making plans to mount an antenna motor inside the trunk with a tube that feeds the mechanism. I think the tiny motor that drives the rope is inadequate. I'm also planning to drill four access holes in the sheet metal under the shade so I can remove the shade without dismantling half the car. We'll see if I ever get to this...
 

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'87 560 SEC, Pearl Grey/blue; 300,000+ mi; '07 CLS 550, Barolo/stone; 90,000+ mi
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Looks perfect Brian, congrats!

Is the sunshade button switch a 124 part number, or did they have a 126 version? I bought a 4-slot coin tray with the sunshade button, but the print or paint/dye mask, whatever it is, is messy/not sharp. I just figure I could try to find a NOS one if they're out there.
 

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1996 S500, 1982 500SEC, 1991 560SEL
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Thanks, Grumpy- after hearing this, I went ahead and gave it a go

I carefully let out the tension and then pulled out the spring mechanism. Basically, the roller has two black plugs on it
  • One of the plugs just has a rod which goes through a hole. This is not attached to the spring, it just rotates
  • The other plug has the spring attached to it
Here's what the entire spring looks...
Thanks for the write-up.

I have an issue with my spring mechanism. I wound it all the way clockwise (which I believe is in the direction of increasing tension) as well as many turns counter-clockwise (I can't seem to reach an "end", it just keeps spinning) and I don't have any tension in the roller both ways.

I want to remove my spring to inspect further, as I suspect its broken inside, so I've studied your post. I removed the black plastic plug on the free end simple enough, but I can't seem to the remove the plug on the spring-end. I've tried to pry it out with a thin screwdriver and also grab it with a pair of pliers but its stuck. I've turned the rod counter-clockwise about 100 times to remove the tension but it didn't seem to help. Is there some sort of trick to it?

I can also pull out the rod somewhat, as you can see in my attached photo, but it won't come out further.

Do you know what could be causing my issue with the rod tension/spring?

Thanks in advance.
 

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1991 560SEC / 2013 GL550
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Thanks for the write-up.

I have an issue with my spring mechanism. I wound it all the way clockwise (which I believe is in the direction of increasing tension) as well as many turns counter-clockwise (I can't seem to reach an "end", it just keeps spinning) and I don't have any tension in the roller both ways.

I want to remove my spring to inspect further, as I suspect its broken inside, so I've studied your post. I removed the black plastic plug on the free end simple enough, but I can't seem to the remove the plug on the spring-end. I've tried to pry it out with a thin screwdriver and also grab it with a pair of pliers but its stuck. I've turned the rod counter-clockwise about 100 times to remove the tension but it didn't seem to help. Is there some sort of trick to it?

I can also pull out the rod somewhat, as you can see in my attached photo, but it won't come out further.

Do you know what could be causing my issue with the rod tension/spring?

Thanks in advance.
I think I ran into that too; you can try to feed something through the shade tube itself and then use a hammer to tap it out. That should give it enough force to do the trick :) You might find lint or something else got caught in the grooves of the black plastic plug. I might have just stuck the black rod (what the shade attaches to) in there and whacked it

Once you get that sorted, you'll notice the spring has an arm that fits into a groove on the black plastic plug. This is what physically winds the spring when you turn it. Definitely make sure that is seated when you put it back or else it won't ever build up tension :)

Let us know how it goes!
 

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Thanks for the quick response. I took the tube that the sunshade is wrapped around and stuck it in, it's the perfect diameter.

I've whacked at it but nothing's budging! I can actually feel some sort of spring inside as I whack it. But the black plug and rod isn't coming out.

I've hammered the rod so much that the end of it is mushrooming. There must be something preventing it from coming out?

I also noticed as I whack this end, the rod comes out a bit on the other end. What exactly am I hammering on? The spring itself or the metal rod? The metal rod isn't connected to the black plug as it can rotate freely, so it wouldn't make sense to attack that.


taking a break now because I accidentally whackes my arm -- I'm about ready to give up on this and pull a later "sliding arm" style sunshade!
 

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