[krietpiel]

Anybody ever removed the rear powerlift arms (#35) ?
I am assuming they should just pull off once the cap (#42) and screw (#46) has been removed.

I did find a fair bit of gunk and rust behind the cap - I suspect some stubbornness due to rust is likely.

But, I thought to ask before I attack things with a giant hammer

 

[JeepinMike]

Looks like a c-clip of sorts in there too?

 

[krietpiel]

Success

Half a day to make a tool for pulling the arm off and half a day for getting the arm off
First attempt I broke the tool and had to re-inforce it. Then with patience, a bit of heat and lots of hammering, the right arm came off :thumbsup:
Tomorrow I will tackle the left arm.

Seal is buggered - so that will have be replaced.
COme to think of it, I am buggered as well - time for a nice cold beer

 

[tkv000]

Wow, good job. Did you index it so you know where it goes back on? or is it keyed somehow?

 

[krietpiel]

Hello Trev,

There is no key - the reason I am taking them off is because they are set too low and need the end lifted by about 150 mm. I cannot fit my single-tyne ripper and my first clue this was an issue was that the ends of the 3PL lower-arms were half-way ground through by dragging on the tarmac
I have allready had new ball ends welded on, but now that I want to use my ripper, I finally had to do something about raising the powerlift arms.
Still - another bit of rust stopped before it could do serious damage.

 

[tkv000]

If you removed the tire, could a guy use a big jaw puller?

Nice to know they can be adjusted, mine are just about right thusfar, but you never know what you might put on the back...

 

[krietpiel]

If you removed the tire, could a guy use a big jaw puller?.......

Removing the wheel does give you more room and a bigger tool can be used. My plan B was to fabricate a larger set-up using a hydraulic jack - in that case I would have had to remove the wheel. I suspect MB has a special tool - probably hydraulic that makes this whole operation a breeze.

I will clean and lubricate things before re-assembling, but given the good condition of the splines, I suspect this is in fact an interference fit set-up - which makes things more challenging of course.

 

[stout]

Half a day to make a tool for pulling the arm off and half a day for getting the arm off
First attempt I broke the tool and had to re-inforce it. Then with patience, a bit of heat and lots of hammering, the right arm came off :thumbsup:
Tomorrow I will tackle the left arm.

Seal is buggered - so that will have be replaced.
COme to think of it, I am buggered as well - time for a nice cold beer

What does the seal do? Just keep grit out of the rotational surface? In order to attach the backhoe mount I pulled my whole hitch off with the cylinders attached and it was fairly easy. But the arms are difficult to move. If I put it back on, is there any PM that should be performed?

 

[krietpiel]

What does the seal do? ..........If I put it back on, is there any PM that should be performed?

Hello stout - basicaly, yes, the seal keeps dirt and moisture out. I have had a chance now to clean the RHS arm and noticed that dirt has worked its way right through to the grease zerk ! So, just grinding paste everywhere. I would remove the mount from the shaft as well and clean everything. Then pack well with grease when re-assembling. Note there are 2 seals per mount.

With a good clean, the arm now slides freely on and off the splines.

The LHS arm was worked on before and whovever did the work, left the seals off ! Rust is very visible ! It is firmly stuck still and I am moving to plan B today. It goes to show that it is important to grease these things regularly - this will push out dirt and mositure that might have crept past the seal.

 

[krietpiel]

Mog 1; Wheelpuller 0

Well, plan B did not work One 8" rental wheelpuller is kaput !
Now it is plan C - whatever that may be

 

[nj_3500]

Well, plan B did not work One 8" rental wheelpuller is kaput !
Now it is plan C - whatever that may be

Ouch!

Perhaps a large slide hammer?

 

[krietpiel]

I am thinking more along the lines of dynamite - or a shaped charge using C4 But that might scare the cats - so I have a hire company looking to see what can be had from the mining areas.

Looks like KUKKO is the folks to look to for top of the range pullers.
Thier catalogue is actually a wealth of information. That 8" puller is probably only good for about 5T - not nearly enough. Looks like I was just lucky with getting the RHS off - less rust as it at least had some sealing compared to the left that has none.

So, now I wait.

 

[nj_3500]

I am thinking more along the lines of dynamite - or a shaped charge using C4 But that might scare the cats - so I have a hire company looking to see what can be had from the mining areas.

Looks like KUKKO is the folks to look to for top of the range pullers.
Thier catalogue is actually a wealth of information. That 8" puller is probably only good for about 5T - not nearly enough. Looks like I was just lucky with getting the RHS off - less rust as it at least had some sealing compared to the left that has none.

So, now I wait.

The shaped charge would be interesting. If you go that route please get it on video haha.

 

[TRUKTOR]

Have you tried the home brew Penetrant -
ATF & Acetone ? I have not, myself, but the buzz is that
It came in first for the chore in some test. No doubt it
Will take a good amount of force, but Trying the home
Brew might not be a bad idea.

 

[krietpiel]

Have you tried the home brew Penetrant -
ATF & Acetone ? I have not, myself, but the buzz is that
It came in first for the chore in some test. No doubt it
Will take a good amount of force, but Trying the home
Brew might not be a bad idea.

Thanks Truktor, I have not heard of that mix - my old standby has always been brakefluid ! Sometimes it is the addition of many smaller things that eventually gets it done - so I may just add that to the mix.

I am off to investigate the possibility of a loan 10T hydraulic unit - heres hoping !

 

[krietpiel]

Well, it is finaly off ! Broke the 10T puller - so it was no more mr Nice Guy - angle grinder made short work of the arm ! Cut a V-shape groove and drove a cold chisel in to spread the teeth a bit. The puller + hammer then did its magic. I will have the groove welded up by a profesional welder and she should be good as new !

New bolts for the mounts was also bought - Allen heads this time. Having partially recessed hex bolts is a BAD idea I had to drill out about 1.5" of one of the bolts that had its head damaged - hence could not get a socket to work on it given it was also rusted solid.

Morals of the story - grease your nipples regularly
Do not leave out protective seals
and, Do not assemble any bolts dry !

A note on those seals - they are "inside out" compared to normal oil seals and this means the round spring that provides tension for the lip faces the outside world - they can therefore not be expected to last long. I am looking at treating mine with something to extend thier life - not sure what yet.

 

[krietpiel]

Well, it has been slow going, but I finaly got my welded arm back. Nice job and after a good clean/lube both arms have a snug fit, but can be installed/removed by hand ! As it should be.

I also realised the PO left out the retaining clips (item #38) and had to buy 2 new ones - for the record - they are 72mm. Got them off-the-shelf from my favourite nuts&bolts shop. It took a bit of hand-to-hand combat getting them in - but that is also to be expected.

The rear end is now ready for work - however, next year some time, the whole lot is going to come off to refurbish the rams, replace the rear seals (items#23&27) and replace the cones (item#19) on the spindle. All should be good as new then. Nice when everything is as it should be :thumbsup:

 

[njc110381]

Thanks for posting all this. I'm just looking for a linkage for my 900 and it's been very interesting reading.

I'm glad you got it all sorted in the end!

 

[stout]

Well, it has been slow going, but I finaly got my welded arm back. Nice job and after a good clean/lube both arms have a snug fit, but can be installed/removed by hand ! As it should be.

I also realised the PO left out the retaining clips (item #38) and had to buy 2 new ones - for the record - they are 72mm. Got them off-the-shelf from my favourite nuts&bolts shop. It took a bit of hand-to-hand combat getting them in - but that is also to be expected.

The rear end is now ready for work - however, next year some time, the whole lot is going to come off to refurbish the rams, replace the rear seals (items#23&27) and replace the cones (item#19) on the spindle. All should be good as new then. Nice when everything is as it should be :thumbsup:

What does #19, the cone, do? What is the material?

 

[krietpiel]

What does #19, the cone, do? What is the material?

Typical German steel ??? I have come to have great respect for the steel used on this vehicle !

It acts like a giant ball bearing - the spindle rotates in the housing via these cones. Not sure why did not just use a bush as the spindle does nt have complex rotation and rotates rarely and slowly. In any case, cannot fault the actual engineering.