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1999 Mercedes Benz E320 Wagon
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13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just wanted to share what i found inside the door panel when i took a look inside to try to fix this problem. It was am intermittent issue but malfunctioned more often than functioned and i finally decided it had inconvenienced me for the last time. As with anything with a car this age, youre going to break some plastic more than likely somewhere along the way. To minimize this, walk away for a few minutes when you feel like bashing it to bits because it will happily oblige. When i reupholstered my roof the guy i bought my material from told me i would have to replace the two vents in the panel that were going to just crumble to bits. For 35 bucks each i said sit and spin MB, thats a piece of plastic my guy not silk boxers. So that's when i found meguiars black plastic restorer and thought it sounded like if i started layering it on one coat at a time i may be able to save it. Low and behold it worked great! I think i did 4 coats total, but that first one i kid you not i barely touched one of the wings and it damn near turned to dust. So the upholstery guy wasnt wrong, had i not found that product there wouldve been no saving it. Getting way kff topic now, but i highly recommend reinforcing old plastic before it hits that crucial age of degridation or if its already happened, do your best to minimize breakage, use a strong glue to get it back to shape, then get busy with some reinforcement coats. Anywho, im sure theres a thread or video on youtube detailing door panel removal so im gonna skip that until i have more time or someone requests some assistance. Once i had the panel removed i hut the door lock and unlock button a couple times and could hear a very obvious and heavy leak from the vacuum diaphragm mechanism that the vacuum line connects to ( not sure of the exact part name to keep it 馃挴 with you). I removed two silver t30 bolts from the latch on the open door, removed two gold t30s from the inside of the door panel and one Phillips head that held the part i needed removed in place and was pretty difficult to get out without stripping because you dont get a straight shot at it until youve loosened the entire actuator and achieve some play to get a solid grip. I started with that screw so i think the order of operations i outlined will serve you better and lessen the headache i ran into nuts first. At this point i remkved the vacuum line and then the lock rod very gently from their positions with a flat head screw driver. I had to use two for the lock rod, one to depress two tabs and the other to pop it off the first two tabs. Then depressed the other two tabs with one and was able to get it popped off finally. Theres probably an easier way to do it but i havent found that solution yet. At this point the padt should be free but takes some patience angling the top to left while pulling the lower portion up and to the right. I used s flat head to to pry the whole mehanism towards me to create enligh spAce to pop it out. Initially i took it apart inside the door panel and removed it in 5 pieces, which sucked; especially when i realized i had one bolt i had overlooked that had eslaved me to not having enough play to do it easily and in one piece. Okay so now i had a couple broken tabs and thus small gaps that didnt want to close in the diaphragms housing. So i used some dap rapid set glue ( the stuff rocks, so much crap out there claiming its extreme and barely holds better than 3m hot glue (which actually also rocks in it's own way)) to give it a strong base and used wood clamps over the two housing tabs and the bottom of the housing to hold the two halves together while it dried. Its 30 seconds to set and 30 minutes til cured, and works on most materials.its my favorite glue at the moment, just dont hover over what youre working cuz the fumes are rough on the eyes and not good to breathe either im sure. Anyways once a minute past just to be safe, then i continued on wkth the 3m hot glue since i still had small gaps i santed to seal thoroughly. I went around the whoke perimeter and laid a bead, then jsed the heated tip to settle and smooth everything out. Put my finger over the hose connection now and its so strong a vacuum im unable to move it with my finger covering the inlet. Make sure to take a picture before removing, especially if you find yourself taking the thing apart. I put the top and bottom portions basically opposite what ghey shouldve been amd had to take it back apart rotate it 90 degrees and do it again. Dont be a dumb smart guy like me and lay attention to orientation of top and bottom halves cuz it definitely matters. I'm still in the process of reassembling but I'm positive this was the issue and I will update once finished. Trying to get a new door speaker installed while I'm in here before putting it back together.
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2005 Mercedes CLK320 2008 Mercedes E550 2013 Mercedes E63 AMG
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I have no idea why people patch things up when the new part is inexpensive.

Reminds me the time we found a brand new pair of Channel Lock grips holding up the window in a Jeep Cherokee. The entire regulator/motor assembly was $70 my cost, but buggered up using a $25 tool. I still have the tool.

I am opposed to the nutty putty and bisquick used to repair vehicles.
 

Registered
1999 Mercedes Benz E320 Wagon
Joined
13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
It is no longer available from MB. 202 800 11 75
Also, i am poor lol. I patch up and go as much as humanly possible when its things that arent necessarily criucial to my survival. Plus, i enjoy the challenge of learning something new. I did however underestimate the power of this pump and i am ammending the process with jb weld instead. Takes a bit longer to cure but hasnt ever failed me yet. Plus, i got another attachment out of it ill share rn i thought made it all worth it 馃槀
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