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2004 ML270
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Both rear door electric windows don't work.

I checked for voltage at the switch in the rear door and all okay there so no problems with the front switches or kiddy lock.

Motor has continuity, 4ohm resistance. Removed two pins from the switch and put 12v directly to the motor and all I got was a bit of sparking. Reverse polarity and same issue.

The door I am working on has some water damage from a damaged window seal.

According to the manual you need to put the window all the way down to remove the motor assembly. Has anyone successfully done this without being able to wind the window down?

Cheers
Matt.
 

· IR MODERATOR
1996 Volvo 855GLT, 1993 MB 190e 2.3 8v, 1998 Subaru Outback SUS, 1991 BMW 525, 1998 MB C230
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9,238 Posts
motors are shot. its a bit of work but it can be done. are you replaceing the regulators as well?
 

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2004 ML270
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543 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I really want to replace as little as possible. Not sure if I can get second hand motors without the regulators or not.

Can I hack the regulator to get everythingout?

Matt.
 

· IR MODERATOR
1996 Volvo 855GLT, 1993 MB 190e 2.3 8v, 1998 Subaru Outback SUS, 1991 BMW 525, 1998 MB C230
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9,238 Posts
if ur replacing the regulator then i would just cut the cable in the regulator and the window is free to lower. if not reach up remove the plastic clip and all the bolts then with force push the reg up and to unhook it from the upper slot and it will slide right out.
 

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1974 450sl, 1986 190e, 97 sl320 40th sold
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Had the same problem myself and I reached the same conclusion as you after testing. Just ordered two new motors complete with regulators on ebay for $100 shipped. Not really a big deal to replace them either.. Remove the door panels and 5 nuts per side. I plan to cut the wires close to the old motor and soldered / shrink wrapped the new ones in.

The reason mine failed is the same reason im looking for new rear door panels.. The car sat with the rear window busted out for about a year before i got it. The moisture really raised hell with everything in the back portion of the car. sunroof motor blown, both rear window motors blown and the cardboard holding the rear door panels together disintegrated lol
 

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1987 190D Turbo
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1,290 Posts
If the corrosion isn't too far gone, the motor can be disassembled, cleaned and lubed. Instructions for replacing or repairing the motor:

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w201-190-class/1716447-wondow-motor-repairs.html

If you plan on replacement, you can certainly go the easy route and hack it, but it can still come out in one piece if you are patient enough. Undo the bolts. work it around until you can pop out the clip, slide out the window and remove the regulator.
 

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2004 ML270
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543 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
How do you remove the clip from the bottom of the window to separate the regulator guide from the window channel?

I have unbolted all the bolts but need to be able to separate the window from the regulator so that I can then slide the regulator up to get it out of the locking tab at the top of the door.

I can't make out from the pics how they come apart and don't want to break any of the plastic bits getting it apart.

Cheers
Matt.
 

· IR MODERATOR
1996 Volvo 855GLT, 1993 MB 190e 2.3 8v, 1998 Subaru Outback SUS, 1991 BMW 525, 1998 MB C230
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reach up remove the plastic clip then push the reg assy up with all ur force and pull it toward the back of the door then the reg should slide out of the window channel.
 

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1987 190D Turbo
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The clip should just pry out of the channel. Once the clip is removed, the slider can be worked out either forward or back. Once it's out, the window will just fall to the bottom of the channel, so be careful. If you try pulling the regulator out without lowering the window, you're going to have a hard time unhooking the tab at the top.
 

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2004 ML270
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks for all the help guys. Got the tab off easily once I knew what I was doing and pushed up as hard as I could and just got the regulator out of the tab at the top.

Slid the regulator backwards so the guide can out of the window channel after I had taped the window up and was able to get the regulator out.

Lots of water damage on the outside but I was hopeful.... Slipped the motor housing off and the commutator is badly worn, brushes are also gone.

The guide on the main rail is also broken so it can just twist off - I assume it's supposed to be clipped on to the main rail so it can't move anywhere.

Gearbox is also damaged I think. Time for a new regulator and motor....

Thanks again guys.

Cheers
Matt.
 

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1996 Volvo 855GLT, 1993 MB 190e 2.3 8v, 1998 Subaru Outback SUS, 1991 BMW 525, 1998 MB C230
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1974 450sl, 1986 190e, 97 sl320 40th sold
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Thanks for all the help guys. Got the tab off easily once I knew what I was doing and pushed up as hard as I could and just got the regulator out of the tab at the top.

Slid the regulator backwards so the guide can out of the window channel after I had taped the window up and was able to get the regulator out.

Lots of water damage on the outside but I was hopeful.... Slipped the motor housing off and the commutator is badly worn, brushes are also gone.

The guide on the main rail is also broken so it can just twist off - I assume it's supposed to be clipped on to the main rail so it can't move anywhere.

Gearbox is also damaged I think. Time for a new regulator and motor....

Thanks again guys.

Cheers
Matt.
Just put my new motor / regulator in tonight and my window works great now. Got it on ebay $50 free shipping, New Window Regulator Passenger Right Side Rear with Motor Mercedes 190 Power RH | eBay
 

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1974 450sl, 1986 190e, 97 sl320 40th sold
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506 Posts
That's a crazy low price. What does the quality seem like?
Right on par with oem, build quality looked identical as far as the materials used. The motor seems nice and strong, the window zips up and down at a good speed. I wouldn't hesitate to buy another, good business too over 1 million sales on ebay !!!
 

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1985 Mercedes Benz 190E 2.3L W201 5-speed manual
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175 Posts
That's a crazy low price. What does the quality seem like?
Right on par with oem, build quality looked identical as far as the materials used. The motor seems nice and strong, the window zips up and down at a good speed. I wouldn't hesitate to buy another, good business too over 1 million sales on ebay !!!
I think those are the same window regulators with motors that I bought for my 190E. They are a bit different from the OEM ones. First, the motor angles down instead of up for some reason, so you have to stretch the power wires going to them a bit. Secondly, the wire ends are totally different (they are little eyelets instead of the plug ends that clip into the window switch) so you will have to cut the ends off of the old motor and splice them onto the wires coming out of the new motor. This will also get some extra length on the wires so they will fit comfortably in the door and easily reach the window switch.

It is a bit of work hacking it up to make it work in the car, but once it is all said and done, it fits into the door fine and works great. It is a Made in China part (obviously, for the price it is not German!) but honestly for how much cheaper it is than the OEM parts, it definitely seems worth it to me to get something that works. The motor moves the window up and down fairly quickly and doesn't seem to struggle at all to get it to go up. I'll have to see how long it will last for (several months or several years?), but then again I also don't really use the rear windows all that much, so I'm hoping they will last for a long time. I just hated having functions that don't work on the car and even though I don't use the rear windows much, I did want to fix them and make them work.
 

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1974 450sl, 1986 190e, 97 sl320 40th sold
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506 Posts
I think those are the same window regulators with motors that I bought for my 190E. They are a bit different from the OEM ones. First, the motor angles down instead of up for some reason, so you have to stretch the power wires going to them a bit. Secondly, the wire ends are totally different (they are little eyelets instead of the plug ends that clip into the window switch) so you will have to cut the ends off of the old motor and splice them onto the wires coming out of the new motor. This will also get some extra length on the wires so they will fit comfortably in the door and easily reach the window switch.

It is a bit of work hacking it up to make it work in the car, but once it is all said and done, it fits into the door fine and works great. It is a Made in China part (obviously, for the price it is not German!) but honestly for how much cheaper it is than the OEM parts, it definitely seems worth it to me to get something that works. The motor moves the window up and down fairly quickly and doesn't seem to struggle at all to get it to go up. I'll have to see how long it will last for (several months or several years?), but then again I also don't really use the rear windows all that much, so I'm hoping they will last for a long time. I just hated having functions that don't work on the car and even though I don't use the rear windows much, I did want to fix them and make them work.
Yeah the ones i bought came it ring terminals on the end but honestly, either way i wasn't gonna risk messing the the plug end for the window switch . Just as easy with no risk to cut the wires close to the old motor and solder / shrink wrap the new wires to them.

As for the motor, your right these point down and the originals are up. Besides that the regulator, track, clips, mounting location etc... are the same. They bolted right in and worked great, for the price i don't think you can go wrong !
 
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