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Discussion Starter #41 (Edited)
Oh wow they got here already! Fast!

Made in Spain.

Also quality control tested as soon as they were arrived...


Downside...no new bolts provided. Only the 30mm nut so I'll need to get some now.

Just ordered the axle O-ring...$5 and $1.90 for both so one will work and the other goes in the random o-ring box :D
 

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Lol....well, I hope they're better quality that the Spanish made POS "Bosch" dist cap I bought. My second replacement one so far and I'm not doing another.

Kevin
 

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I'd like to hear what you think of the Quality, If I do change the Diff (Highly Likely:smile) next time around I may just buy new shafts.

Besides, If I mail order a used Diff which is my only hope of locating an ASD / LSD one I may never find the shafts to fit anyway without buying new
 

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I don't understand the reluctance to have the OE shafts re-manufactured by CVJ. You get a warranty and lots of us members have used them. New OE axle shafts approach the value of the car. But that doesn't mean you're forced to go with aftermarket....you have choices.

Kevin
 

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I don’t know if you meant me Kevin, I would use them if needed but I live 7000km away from CVJ!

It would cost more than the refurb for me to ship them back & forth unfortunately:(

I see new SKF shafts are about the same price as the OP here bought from GKN. SKF are a very well known brand here & very high quality. Again, hopefully I don't need new drive shafts myself but if I cannot source good used ones to match the ASD Diff I want then I may be forced to buy new.
 

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I don’t know if you meant me Kevin, I would use them if needed but I live 7000km away from CVJ!

It would cost more than the refurb for me to ship them back & forth unfortunately:(

I see new SKF shafts are about the same price as the OP here bought from GKN. SKF are a very well known brand here & very high quality. Again, hopefully I don't need new drive shafts myself but if I cannot source good used ones to match the ASD Diff I want then I may be forced to buy new.
No, definitely not aimed at you...lol! You've got some pretty smart lads over there...sure no one can reman those half-shafts?

I have a restoration book on Jags where they actually show the process of 're-stitching' a cracked block in England. Same process they used to use on old ship steam engines. After that, I think anything is possible.

Kevin
 

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Discussion Starter #48
And here goes the rear lower control arm and carrier arm...

The carrier arm bushing is so far gone I can spin it LOL

Also grabbed the rear diff removal tool. If anybody in the future wants to borrow it just let me know...Once I get to use it, I'll let you know how it works out.








 

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Discussion Starter #49
And diff is out :)



The Harbor Freight transmission jack worked exceptionally well. With a small 2x4 on the flange-end, it sits perfectly straight and I anticpate no issues during reinstall with lining up the mounts.

Also when I removed it, the inside of differential mount came out with the bolt :D Completely collapsed!

In the process of cleaning the differential up as it is FILTHY as you can see...No way I am opening the cover with it in this condition...

Regarding the carrier bushing, the tool I had hoped would work doesn't seem to fit.
I plan to head down to HD/Lowes and see if I can copy this DIY tool:
PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum - View Single Post - Home Made Special Tools, This is where members can share how they made special tools
 

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Discussion Starter #50
You can just imagine the clunk I've had to put up with for the past year...

The tool was totally worth the money and like I said, anyone who wants to borrow it...the job was a total pleasure. 30 seconds and its out. Easy as pie.







 

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Robert....I know it's extra $$ & time....but since you've gone this far, you really ought to consider the subframe mounts as well?

Kevin
 

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Discussion Starter #52
Yep I am! The genuine MB rear kit arrived on Friday. I am using Lemfoeorder for the front but could only find Febi for rear so screw that.

I am currently heading to Ace hardware to get some threaded rods etc so I can diy press them in if I can. I'll be doing that this weekend along with the remaining bushings.
 

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Ps2cho,

Those tools are worth it, indeed. The carrier bushings were as easy as the diffs with the similar tool. You'll be amazed how less squirrely the rear is once they are done.

Feel free to do a threaded rod write up of the subframe mounts.... :)
 

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Discussion Starter #54 (Edited)
Im very excited to get a new rear end feel again. I've had an odd pull to the right for a long time as well...maybe I'll get lucky and it'll resolve that. At the very least I can say the rear end is refreshed.

My subframe mounts are so bad I can move it up and down with a pry bar a good inch so the rubber has likely split just like my photos show for the diff mounts

I was contemplating removing the entire subframe, but with the wagons I would have to deal with all the extra fuel lines back there. Probably not worth it.
 

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Discussion Starter #55
Inner lower control arm bushing in!

The threaded rod seemed to REALLY struggle the last 1", so thats when I put it back in the press and it got it easy. The rod I bought didn't say any rating on it, so maybe it wasn't super strong.

Either way it got the job done!

The major help I think though was the 3/4 coupling in the plumbing section. It fits about as perfect as you could hope for on the bushing. The metal sits on metal, and the rubber goes right through the middle so there is no pressure where you don't want it!







 

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Discussion Starter #56 (Edited)
Diff seals done. Here's some photos and tools I used. Its tough to make out in the photo, but I am using a bent pair of pliers attached to the craftsman needle nose hook. Without that, there's no way you'll get the circlip out as its tight.

For the seal, I found that our Oil filter wrench fits PERFECT. There is a lip, so you can't just use a piece of wood. The oil filter socket dodges the lip and allows you to press on the metal part of the seal directly.

Will the black MB sealant you use for the cam covers work on the diff cover? I have some left. I ran out of carb cleaner too so can't seal it up tonight. I want to blast it clean before I put the cover back on since there was so much grease everywhere it was impossible to keep pieces falling in.

With the circlips on, I have no axial play side to side, which the MB manual states is OK. FYI for future readers, do NOT change your circlips unless you are 100% they are the same thickness. Also do not mix them up and have them go back in the same side. Check for axial play upon reinstallation and make sure the circlips are 100% pushed in, or you'll be pulling the diff again, or replacing it if the clip fell into a bad place.



















 

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Very simple rear end cluster......but then it's not 4Matic. You always have the best photos...always! I would think you'd need just a tad bit of play...but if MB says it's OK...

NAPA has a black sealer in a caulk tube for about $18....best stuff I ever used for diffs. Not that important because it's not going on the engine....just needs to withstand pressure and oil, basically.

Kevin
 

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Discussion Starter #58
Hey it's records for me too:) ...you'd be surprised how often I've gone back on old photos to check on something, or even forget exactly what I did/which order/which tool.
 

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Discussion Starter #59
Differential mounts in:
Installation must be oriented with the "kidney" shaped groove at 6pm.



Starting on the subframe mounts now...
Rear's aren't too bad, but fronts are in dire need.



 

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Discussion Starter #60 (Edited)
I think it almost went too easy...I had no problems at all! I even got the mount out without splitting the center.
Maybe I was more successful than others that I've read online is that I used a 30mm socket (32 might be best, but I dont have one) and it spread the pressing out more away from the center of the rubber. I also don't have rust to deal with either...

Reinstallation was even easier. I coated the subframe mount in dawn soap, then simply used two punches ON THE METAL and it went in easy.

I believe it could go in another 2mm, so I've left it up in the air with the weight slightly off the jackstand to see if in an hour or so the weight of the car will push the rest down...that or when I find an able human body to sit in the trunk.

Note: Genuine MB subframe mounts are made by Sachs. Its stamped right there!















 
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