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1987 420 SEL
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I took my MB to a independent MB specialist yesterday to get my coolant and transmission services done. Of course, the mechanic noticed some other things that needed attention. They told me that my rear brakes need to be done because whoever did them I got the car put the pins back into the pads either to tight or incorrectly and it has caused uneven wear into the rotor on the drivers side. They wanted to charge me $400.00 to do the job. Of course, I refused. So now, I know what the problem is and I need to get on it right away myself.

So, I went to the Autohaus website this morning to order the pads but it shows 2 different part descriptions:

#1)
Part Description: Textar Brake Pad Set, Rear, OE Compound
Fit and Usage Notes: 1 set per car


#2)
Part Description: Textar Brake Pad Set, Rare Usage, Rear, OE Compound
Fit and Usage Notes: For models with ASR (traction control), rear pads have wear sensor slot. Mounts in caliper with 2 pins. 1 set per car.

I thought that all our MB's had ASR. Which one is correct. Please advise. Thanks.
 

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Not such a big fan of textars, but that's just my experience. Pagid's are what i have seen come from MB.

Jonathan
 

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1988 420SEL, for sale
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318 Posts
Rear brakes are really easy to replace. Did mine in about 5 minutes each. Takes longer to jack the car up and pull the wheel than it does to replace the pads.

I used EBC Greenstuff.

ASR was an option. I doubt many of us have that.
 

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Audi A4
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When I was searching for brake job about three weeks ago, most of independent Mercedes-Benz (or European) mechanics asked around $400.00 to $500.00 for brake jobs here in Phoenix, AZ. I assumed that was expensive, and went other place.
The result … it was my biggest mistake that I have done to my baby.

So, if that mechanic specializes in Mercedes-Benz and knows how to take care of it, I would say $400.00 is reasonable price.

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=1198557&posts=8&fid=12
 

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Not unless you have ASR which to my knowledge was never available on a 300SE... Thus no sensors:)

Jonathan
 

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Rear brakes are the easiest thing to do on a w126. I am thinking your caliper is shot if you have uneven wear (ie one pad is dramatically more worn than the other on the same wheel).
Here is a trick remove the wheel while the car is on a lift, have someone push the break and watch the caliper in action id one side moves while the other does not you got a problem.
Replacing the caliper takes less than 15 minutes, the pads less than 5 and the disk less than 1 oh and bleeding 30seconds. Nothing to it.
Make sure that the parking brake inner shoes are properly set otherwise you will be hearing them as you drive.
The rear brakes don't come with sensors, the front do. Replacing the front brakes pads is the easy, the disk however is a pain since you will have to remove the wheel hub screws which are tight and you need proper torquing to put them back. In addition it's a messy job since you will be dealing with the front wheel bearings as well. Might want to replace them while you are there. Jonathan sold me a great set of bearing, get your parts from him.
 

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Hi, depending on what they wanted for 400 USD, if they are going to take apart the calipers and replace the rubers, I would recomend it. Sometimes the dust covers are bad, and the pad dust gets the pistons stiff. That becomes a problem.

Alex
 

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1985 300sd
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446 Posts
Yup, 400 dollars it too much to replace rear brakes and rotors. I bought a set of rear brake pads and rotors from Autohausaz for less than $100. And I know that labor on those should take about 2 hours, so for me that would be about $160. By the way, I love Textar brake pads, I always use them. And like everybody else mentioned, replaced the rear rotors is a cake walk. It takes like 10 minutes to do the whole job if you have a floor jack and jack stands.
 

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Well, it takes me a good bit longer to do rear brakes but I scrub down the calipers, sand the parking brake shoes, spray the whole assembly down w/ brake clean, re-grease all the moving point. Also, it pays imho to spray the non friction surfaces w/ high temp paint (it does require curing in an over for about 2 hours) never get any rust on the rotors that way.

Also a great time to clean the backs of your rims and the mounting surface. If you don't have a good spray on anti corrosion product a light coating of grease on both the mounting face of the rim and the rotor (w/ a bit more in the groove where the hub sticks out through the rotor) is a good way to prevent corrosion.

But then again, I get a little overboard in my work:):)

Jonathan
 

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03 ML500, 94 CADILLAC DEVILLE CONCOURS, 350ZR
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HOW DO YOU KNOW YOU HAVE A ASR AND WHAT DOES IT LOOK LIKE ON YOUR GAUGE. I THOUGH MY 300SE HAVE SOME SORT OF INDICATOR THAT TELL ME WHEN MY BRAKE ARE WEAR. I INCLUDED A DRAWING OF WHAT I MIGHT THOUGHT WOULD BE A ASR AND ALSO TWO OTHER DRAWING TAHT I HAVE KNOW IDEA WHAT ITS FOR, THE MIDDLE ONE LOOK TO ME LIKE RADIATOR. I DONT REALLY KNOW THAT MUCH. WELL I HOPE YOU GUY COPULD RECONIZE MY DRAWING SINCE I DONT HAVE ANY GREAT PROGRAM TO START WITH (I REALLY NEED PHOTOSHOP)[:D]
BILL
 

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· Registered
1987 420 SEL
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
BILLSONG - 10/13/2005 6:59 PM

HOW DO YOU KNOW YOU HAVE A ASR AND WHAT DOES IT LOOK LIKE ON YOUR GAUGE. I THOUGH MY 300SE HAVE SOME SORT OF INDICATOR THAT TELL ME WHEN MY BRAKE ARE WEAR. I INCLUDED A DRAWING OF WHAT I MIGHT THOUGHT WOULD BE A ASR AND ALSO TWO OTHER DRAWING TAHT I HAVE KNOW IDEA WHAT ITS FOR, THE MIDDLE ONE LOOK TO ME LIKE RADIATOR. I DONT REALLY KNOW THAT MUCH. WELL I HOPE YOU GUY COPULD RECONIZE MY DRAWING SINCE I DONT HAVE ANY GREAT PROGRAM TO START WITH (I REALLY NEED PHOTOSHOP)[:D]
BILL
Hey Billsong,

I believe the last one in your diagram is the indicator for when one of your bulbs has blown out.
 

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to my knowledge, a US 300 never came w/ ASR..or at least I have never seen one. ASR is a yellow triangle in the middle of your spedometer. The bulb you are refering to is indeed just a wear indicator.

Jonathan
 
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