[jrcastro]

Getting ready to buy my first E-Class Sedan Benz. Planning on getting 1999-2002. I wanted help with the following things:

1. Are there any year models I want to stay away from?
2. Known Engine / Tranny Issues?
3. Any other big cost known issues?
4. Major changes from year model to another?

Thanks in advance,

Jay

PS: I've read some threads and these model benzs seem to be dependable, hence the decision to go this route.

 

[dwaldmann]

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210-e-class/1346468-relatively-common-issues-w210.html

 

[jrcastro]

As soon as I submitted my thread, I read that thread.

Good read BTW.

 

[Musikmann]

Go for a 2000+ that way you get the post-facelift.

 

[jrcastro]

Is there a big difference? I could not tell from the pre 2000 models that I've looked at.
Being a newbie I probably couldn't distinguish.

 

[Musikmann]

Updated front fascia, newer rear tail lights, and steering wheel controls to name 3 off the top of my head. There are other things but trust me, the posts have much more visual appeal. Once you look more closely, I think you'll agree.

 

[Check Codes]

Welcome to the addiction club.

Buy as new as you can afford is the best advice I can offer. MB is always tweaking, so that way you get the latest tweaks on the end of the model run.

The cool LED turn signal flashers in the post-facelift models is alone reason to go that way, but add to that the updated taillights, the console/cluster and the cleaner front clip and it's a win-win. Besides, you're talking 99-2002, the facelift was in late 99, so you're already there.

If you're not familiar with the marque, I'd humbly suggest a PPI by a qualified tech. Also, if you complete your profile (click the User CP link) and include your location, you may find members near you who are willing to help you with your search. Or expand your search umbrella, depending on your market you can save money that way. I saved about 20% by buying in Denver over the Bay Area. And if that takes you near another experienced member, then you can maybe finagle a PPI and advice in exchange for dinner.

Take care and enjoy the ride,
Greg

 

[jrcastro]

Thanks for the suggestions all and will doa PPI before buying my ride.

I found a 2002 E320 sedan that has only 5k original miles and it is in MINT condition. But listed price of 20k. Blue book is around 17-18k ish.

Does anyone think this is a good deal??
Given the age (7yrs) do I still need to replace the older parts?

Thanks again for any advice.

 

[Musikmann]

On the surface the car sounds nice but it hasn't been driven enough and the price is too high. Chances are good you'll have to replace some of the rubber parts.

 

[jrcastro]

Thanks for the quick reply Musikmann, what rubber parts will require changing? Any mechanical parts I should be worrying about?

I have to admit it is priced higher then what I've been seeing. In my area I've been seeing 2000-2002 cars go for around 15k with around 40-70k miles.
Just wondering if paying an extra 3-4k will be worth justifying the low miles on this one.
Decisions Decisions!!

 

[Musikmann]

You're welcome. I'd guess mostly the belts and hoses, but that shouldn't cost you very much. As far as mechanical parts, I'll defer that judgement to others but I doubt it. Also the battery is getting old but you can check the specific gravity in the cells to see where you stand there. Lastly, you are in a high price area. 2000-2002 cars with those mileages, at least here, should be selling closer to the $10,000 to $12,000 range.

 

[iluvjesus]

I think most parts that need to be changed are due to aging, not mileage. So 5k more to get the low mileage is not worthwhile.

 

[jrcastro]

Yeah my area seems to be a little overpriced at least these cars. I talked to the dealer and they are pretty much firm at $18.5k
About 2-3k more then other cars with higher mileage.

Good point iluvjesus, I figured most parts would wear due to ageing.

 

[danl b]

I purchased a 3 1/2 year old c280 with 6,500 miles. I drove it on a 3 hour road trip and got a lubricant leak on the front psgr wheel seal. A check of merc's records showed the driver side seal had already been replaced. My mechanic told me that rubber seals can dry out from lack of use and a long drive can start them leaking. It also makes a difference if the car sits for a year at a time or if the miles were evenly driven over the life of the car. So far only one seal to replace--2 hours labor under warranty. Other people here know lots more than I, but I would say if you buy it drive it 4 hours straight and then look for oil on the garage floor. Have been very happy with my low mileage used benz