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No adapters needed? Was your car retro fitted with 134 connections?


I've used the Envirosafe kit and like the people on the first few pages I'm extremely happy with it

Yes it's propane blended at a premium price compared to using bbq propane , but there's no need to create your own adapters and fittings . For $34 You get a complete kit from enviro safe that I installed in 15 minutes . Included leak stop and oil charge. Simple and easy and working for 3+ years now

If it was any harder I probably wouldn't have done it , so fabbing my own propane adapters wasn't going to happen . I highly recommend enviro safe
 

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OK Super frustrated, had everything set up ready to go, AC blowing at max.

BUT then the Eviro-safe gauge attachment didn't fit the connection in the car! Am I missing an adapter or connector? Then I was thinking do I have the right location?

The Enviro-Safe connector seems too big. I would just push the valve down and some pressure would release but no tight connection.
Hey SEC,

It sounds as though there is a different [and larger diameter] thread on your fill hose. An R12 fill has the same as a tire valve.

To fill, only use the LOW side port, the one on the large diameter hose. Its just forward of the fuel cooler [with the two fuel hoses and sponge insulation sheathing]. Your first image with the R 12 in red is the LOW side.

** The central image is that of the HIGH side.. One can be injured connecting a can to that. ** A/C manifold gauges only there.

Good luck man, you'll get there.

MBL
 

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Thx, MBL87560SEC. Yes, exactly, there's different larger diameter thread on the fill hose & my car has a "tire size" valve.

I'm trying to figure out how to proceed, maybe there's an adapter I need to find at home depot...


Hey SEC,

It sounds as though there is a different [and larger diameter] thread on your fill hose. An R12 fill has the same as a tire valve.

To fill, only use the LOW side port, the one on the large diameter hose. Its just forward of the fuel cooler [with the two fuel hoses and sponge insulation sheathing]. Your first image with the R 12 in red is the LOW side.

** The central image is that of the HIGH side.. One can be injured connecting a can to that. ** A/C manifold gauges only there.

Good luck man, you'll get there.

MBL
 

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You're right, I went to the auto parts store & got an adaptor.

So, I turned on the AC, attached the can of Eviro-Safe and the meter showed NO PRESSURE then after about 15 mins I had 10lbs of pressure with the AC on. When I turned off the AC the pressure went up to 100lbs. It was hard to tell if the can was empty or not. But 10lbs was as high as the pressure would go with ONE CAN and the AC on.

I loosened the top of the can and I could tell there was still pressure in the can, so I left the gauge on. How can I tell if the can is empty?

But still NO COLD AIR..

I checked under the car & could see a small drop of green dye at the bottom of the compressor.

Now not sure how to proceed, should I...

(A) add the STOP LEAK & OIL CHARGE. (B) add another can of refrigerant. (C) BOTH or (D) End this project & fix the leak.

Any advice greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.


You can pick up a r134 adapter at any auto part store
My cars already had the r134 fittings on them
 

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If one can gave you 10psi and it holds for a day , add the rest of all the cans tomorrow . If it’s back to 0 psi tomorrow , your leak may be too large to seal with the stop leak
 

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Got it! If it does hold, should I add any OIL CHARGE? to lubricate.. Whats the purpose of this stuff?

How do you know if the can is completely empty? Kinda concerned if I remove the gauge its gonna be spraying.

Did you mentioned your car only took one can to fill your system?


If one can gave you 10psi and it holds for a day , add the rest of all the cans tomorrow . If it’s back to 0 psi tomorrow , your leak may be too large to seal with the stop leak
 

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that Was referring to a car I did that was just low on freon , not empty , where one can topped it off .


On cars that are empty like yours , assuming it holds till tomorrow , yes you should dump in the oil charge and stop leak and more refrigerant (1-2 cans more , till the gauge shows full.( You’ll probably need to use it all )
 

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Will do! Thanks! :thumbsup:


that Was referring to a car I did that was just low on freon , not empty , where one can topped it off .


On cars that are empty like yours , assuming it holds till tomorrow , yes you should dump in the oil charge and stop leak and more refrigerant (1-2 cans more , till the gauge shows full.( You’ll probably need to use it all )
 

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As I mentioned earlier, I used 1 can of stop leak then 2 cans of refrigerant. It must be noted that this product in an unopened can is very light from the beginning (nothing like r134 which is much heavier). With your A/C set on full cold (white dot in the blue area of the thumb wheel) and fan at full speed and push button unit on HVAC control panel on double solid arrows it should suck down the can in 3-4 minutes at most. Yes there may possibly be a little gas left in the can and when you begin to remove the filling device the leftover gas should escape in a couple seconds. If there is still strong pressure at this point you are not getting the gas into the system. Try adding another can and verify the compressor clutch is engaging, once that engages it will suck all the gas out of the can quickly. At this point you are already committed so just try shooting all the components into the system and keep a close eye on everything prior to shooting in the final can. This complete exercise should take you about 20-30 minutes.
 

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If you have 100 psi with the system off but only 10 psi running something is wrong. IIRC, 70 psi off is about right. You are already at 100. To get the low side up to snuff your high side will be through the roof (read DANGEROUS). My guess is the expansion valve is not opening. Does the pressure rise immediately to 100 when you shut the AC off, or does it take a long time, as if it was leaking back(wards) slowly? I would not put any more Freon in there until you can get a read on the high side.
 

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Ok guys, so I have COOL air, NOT COLD. :(

Thanks the reply, John350, unfortunately I didn't see your post until tonight.

TODAY I had about 5psi left in the system after one can from last night. So, I added the Stop Leak & Oil Charge, then something (maybe the compressor) seemed to kick on when I added the Oil Charge, so maybe something was stuck.

Then, I added 2 can of refrigerant which brought me to about 40psi when the AC was on and 70-80 when off. As you pointed out, magicbigdaddy, the refrigerant seemed to suck right down into the system quickly.

The AC got down to about 70 degrees when it was 95 outside & 63 when it was 75 outside at night. Not even close to freezing..

BUT, tonight after the car sat for a few, I grabbed the gauge, started the engine & plugged in the gauge in and it shot up into the RED!! I immediately turned on the AC it went down to 40psi, I then turned off the AC and it went up to 80.

I decided to let out some pressure thinking maybe theres too much in the system. So I twisted the open end of the gauge & released some pressure. After waiting about 15 mins. it settled at 40psi AC on & 70-80 AC off.

So now I'm wondering if the PRESSURE WILL INCREASE when sitting or go into the RED tomorrow when its REALLY HOT outside. What are the dangers?? Explosion? :crying

Not sure what I should do next..

Any advice greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.



If you have 100 psi with the system off but only 10 psi running something is wrong. IIRC, 70 psi off is about right. You are already at 100. To get the low side up to snuff your high side will be through the roof (read DANGEROUS). My guess is the expansion valve is not opening. Does the pressure rise immediately to 100 when you shut the AC off, or does it take a long time, as if it was leaking back(wards) slowly? I would not put any more Freon in there until you can get a read on the high side.
 

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Your system has a leak and you’ll lose pressure naturally , don’t worry about bleeding off . Make sure the compressor is coming on and the other parts of the system are all properly working (mono valve , condenser , AC dash switches etc )

Use it for a while and look for anything freezing up . With the pressures indicated you should be ice cold but that’s assuming everything is working properly
 

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Maybe as you mentioned, tusabes, a valve or something isn't working properly.

I just went out again to see if the system pressure was rising while the car was sitting and as I suspected the pressure was at the RED ZONE with the AC OFF, when I turned it ON the pressures dropped to 40psi. The pressure doesn't rise immediately when I turned the AC off, but it rises very slowly.. Not sure what this means, but I'm sure it's not good.


Your system has a leak and you’ll lose pressure naturally , don’t worry about bleeding off . Make sure the compressor is coming on and the other parts of the system are all properly working (mono valve , condenser , AC dash switches etc )

Use it for a while and look for anything freezing up . With the pressures indicated you should be ice cold but that’s assuming everything is working properly
 

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You need to get a read on the high side pressure. I think what is happening is the compressed refrigerant is not making it back through the system to the low side. You're getting a "slug" of compressed Freon stuck between the compressor and the expansion valve. When you shut it off the pressure slowly leaks back through the compressor and, eventually, you get low side readings in the red. Your low side reading when running is normal because the gas isn't making it back to the compressor.

I have seen a system that had the correct charge, but had a blockage. The low side pressure would drop to near nothing while the high side climbed to the point where the compressor shut off. Your low side drops to normal, so, I'm guessing you're way over charged.

Bottom line, I think the system is over charged and has a blockage in the high side. It could be either the dryer or the expansion valve.
 

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Good morning, John350! Ok I'll change the valve and get a reading on the high side, what should it be at? If the pressure is high or low, what should I do if I do at this point? Especially if I have a blockage? Should I release the pressure in the system for now to be safe?

Thanks for the info.


You need to get a read on the high side pressure. I think what i happening is the compressed refrigerant is not making it back through the system to the low side. You're getting a "slug" of compressed Freon stuck between the compressor and the expansion valve. When you shut it off the pressure slowly leaks back through the compressor and, eventually, you get low side readings in the red. Your low side reading when running is normal because the gas isn't making it back to the compressor.

Bottom line, I think the system is over charged and has a blockage in the high side. It could be either the dryer or the expansion valve.
 

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Good morning, John350! Ok I'll change the valve and get a reading on the high side, what should it be at?
Not sure what that means, but DO NOT connect the gauge on the can to the high side!!!! The pressure on the high side can normally be between 175 and 350 psi, depending on ambient temps. If you have a blockage it could be a lot higher, especially since I think you've got the system overcharged.

If you're standing near by and something on the system blows, you could get hurt! Escaping Freon can freeze your eyeballs, skin, etc...
 

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Get a set of gauges. Ebay has R12/R134 gauge set (hi and low) for $29, auto parts store should be similar, maybe a bit higher.

On my SEC, pressure is about 95psi on high and low sides with the engine off. I charge it to 200psi on the high side, engine at idle, and it is about 38psi on the low side.

Sitting in the garage I get temps in the 40s, and driving around the neighborhood in a 100+F Vegas summer, I can see low 30s.
 

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Thanks for the warnings, John350, I'm being as carefully as I can to keep my head away & be prepared to jump if it blows.

I checked the low side again today & it was high again with the AC OFF. I've been using the gauge provide with the set, but WITHOUT THE CAN attached, just CLOSING THE VAVLE on the open side. I suppose its OK to use it this way on the High side as well..?

With the possibility of the system being over-charged, I decided to release more pressure from the system as carefully as I could by opening the valve until I got the pressure just below 35psi with the AC ON.

I definitely see the running temperature of my car gets HOTTER when the compressor is on. What's normal for most SECs?



Not sure what that means, but DO NOT connect the gauge on the can to the high side!!!! The pressure on the high side can normally be between 175 and 350 psi, depending on ambient temps. If you have a blockage it could be a lot higher, especially since I think you've got the system overcharged.

If you're standing near by and something on the system blows, you could get hurt! Escaping Freon can freeze your eyeballs, skin, etc...
 
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