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I answered all those questions in my posts above . The gauge will show what your current refrigerant level is - if it’s just a bit low , 1 or 2 cans will fill you up. If it’s empty you should use the full $34.95 kit with the oil charge and stop leak cans included .
I was just hoping to get some actual pressures in PSI I should expect in a fully charged system. Of curse it would vary with ambient temperature so approximate is OK.
 

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Look on the gauge. You want it to be around the 35 degree F mark for your refrigerant.



This one is showing about 35 degrees and 37 psi, good for R-12. If it was R-134a the temp would be about 40 F, not as cool. Less than 32 and you ice up the evaporator.
 

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I was just hoping to get some actual pressures in PSI I should expect in a fully charged system. Of curse it would vary with ambient temperature so approximate is OK.
IF you are using the gauge that’s included in the envirosafe kit , it has a blue shaded range for indicating when you are at the correct pressures .

If you are using another brand of gauge that does not have a shaded area , yes around 35 psi is a good rule of thumb for. A full system
 

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Envirosafe has a temperature-pressure chart on their site: https://www.es-refrigerants.com/docs/41028_310.pdf

Check it out: Looks like 34-36psi is going to give you the best performance without icing up. An undercharged (within limits) system will actually get colder, but once the evaporator freezes up there's no airflow...
 

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What if it leaks.

So what happens if there’s a leak under the hood with a short to ground from an Ignition cable (HT lead).
 

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I can't say anything about iso-butane but propane is fussy on mixture, if I remember correctly there is a 5% window on whether you're too rich or too lean to ignite.
 

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I can't say anything about iso-butane but propane is fussy on mixture, if I remember correctly there is a 5% window on whether you're too rich or too lean to ignite.
So how am I suppose to interpret that? Is it dangerous or not to have propane in the ac system rather than R12. Is it really worth it to save a few bucks ?
 

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Well, you're using gasoline as fuel for the engine. Twenty gallon tank...

If you're really worried, get a Diesel. ;)
The gasoline is in the rear. I’m willing to bet there are more front end collisions than rear. If I wanted to drive a diesel I would have bought a diesel pickup.
 

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So how am I suppose to interpret that? Is it dangerous or not to have propane in the ac system rather than R12. Is it really worth it to save a few bucks ?
I consider it safe enough for my use, I worked with it extensively (military conversion test program in the early 80's) and am comfortable with using it, but all i can advise is "If you're nervous with it then don't use it".
 

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Well, I'm really kicking myself in the head for not dealing with this sooner now that the heatwave has hit.

Tusabes, I'm really leaning towards following your lead and advice on the Enviro-Safe after reading through threads & looking on ebay at old cans of R12. Especially with the possibility I'll also need some R12 oil to seal leaks, if any. When comparing, the Eviro-Safe looks like a great deal if it works. Thanks for sharing.


IF you are using the gauge that’s included in the envirosafe kit , it has a blue shaded range for indicating when you are at the correct pressures .

If you are using another brand of gauge that does not have a shaded area , yes around 35 psi is a good rule of thumb for. A full system
 

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Tusabes, I'm really leaning towards following your lead and advice on the Enviro-Safe after reading through threads & looking on ebay at old cans of R12. Especially with the possibility I'll also need some R12 oil to seal leaks, if any. When comparing, the Eviro-Safe looks like a great deal if it works. Thanks for sharing.
Please come back here and let us know how it goes. TIA.
 

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OK! I just recieved the Envirosafe kit & this weekend I'm going to attempt this procedure you outlined here.

If there's a leak,. After the first refrigerant can goes through; Do I need to add the ENTIRE cans of both Oil Charge & Stop Leak?

If there's no leak; Should I put in some Oil Charge for good measure, system lubrication?

Any advice greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.


It’s fully compatible with r12 and r134 , no need to vacuum
Just use the $34.95 kit pictured and fill er up. You probably won’t even need the last can (save it to top off later if needed )

I just did one today . This is the 4th car I’ve filled with envirosafe.

If the gauge shows pressure but just a bit low I add one can and that usually tops it off . No need to use the oil charge or stop leak

If the gauge shows as completely empty then there’s obvious a leak the question. Is how big . So first I put in one can refrigerant , as I look And listen for obvious large leaks . One car I had a massive leak so I stopped there (and didn’t waste the rest of the kit ). If no obvious leaks then I put in the oil charge , then the can of stop leak , then another can of refrigerant , so the the oil charge and stop leak is pushed through the system by the second refrigerant can . This usually is enough to fill it up . If still not full I add the third can until pressures show full .

Very easy very quick . No need to pull vacuum or evacuate
 

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My DD is 87 w124 Turbo diesel wagon. This car had sat dead for over 2 years before I rescued it. No A/C at all. I noticed it had been switched to r134 at some point in time. Bought the ES kit and loaded up the system. I am getting 38 degrees F consistently out my center vents for over a week. Nice and cool now. Best $35-40 I have ever spent on a car. I put the stop leak in first then immediately followed with the refrigerant. Definitely colder than any other MB that had been converted to r134. Not bad for a 31 yr old wagon. Just DO IT!
 

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OK! I just recieved the Envirosafe kit & this weekend I'm going to attempt this procedure you outlined here.

If there's a leak,. After the first refrigerant can goes through; Do I need to add the ENTIRE cans of both Oil Charge & Stop Leak?

If there's no leak; Should I put in some Oil Charge for good measure, system lubrication?

Any advice greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
HI sec I saw you tried to pm me but my box is full . Just follow my instructions above - hook up the gauge and if your system still has pressure and is just a bit low on Freon then just add refrigerant till it’s full . No need to use the oil charge or stop leak .

If there is no pressure showing on the gauge at all then it’s empty ,so add one can of refrigerant and look/listen for massive leaks . If there’s a massive leak like a burst hose there’s no use to proceed and you must fix it . If you don’t hear or see massive obvious leaks then proceed with the cans of oil charge , stop leak , and more refrigerant till the gauge reads full charge
 

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Got it, sounds simple enough. I'll give it a shot over weekend. Looking forward to finally having cold air! Thanks, tusabes!

HI sec I saw you tried to pm me but my box is full . Just follow my instructions above - hook up the gauge and if your system still has pressure and is just a bit low on Freon then just add refrigerant till it’s full . No need to use the oil charge or stop leak .

If there is no pressure showing on the gauge at all then it’s empty ,so add one can of refrigerant and look/listen for massive leaks . If there’s a massive leak like a burst hose there’s no use to proceed and you must fix it . If you don’t hear or see massive obvious leaks then proceed with the cans of oil charge , stop leak , and more refrigerant till the gauge reads full charge
 

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Let us know how it works out , assuming you have no massive leaks that require parts replacement , it’s really as easy as checking the fluid levels in your car !!
 

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So my GF has been complaining I'm messing around with my car too much on the weekends so I didn't get to the AC. :rolleyes: But, I hope its as easy as you're saying because I'm gonna try it tonight. So, I just need to have the car running with the AC blowing full blast as I'm injecting the refrigerant, correct?



Let us know how it works out , assuming you have no massive leaks that require parts replacement , it’s really as easy as checking the fluid levels in your car !!
 

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OK Super frustrated, had everything set up ready to go, AC blowing at max.

BUT then the Eviro-safe gauge attachment didn't fit the connection in the car! Am I missing an adapter or connector? Then I was thinking do I have the right location?

The Enviro-Safe connector seems too big. I would just push the valve down and some pressure would release but no tight connection.


That’s Correct !!
 

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