Mercedes-Benz Forum banner

1 - 20 of 32 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Does anyone have a "thermal image" of the radiator of a 230E sedan -90? E.g. either a proper thermal image or just some temp readings from different spots on the radiator, and how cool should the water be exiting the radiator?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,731 Posts
I have a 320 (m104 3.2L), and I have an IR thermometer. I could probably take a grid of readings, maybe 50mm apart ?

of course, the results will be highly dependent on the ambient temperature, and engine conditions, I can only do it with the engine idling with the hood up, after a test drive. my radiator is at least a few years old, I've not replaced it since I got the car 4 years ago, but I'm vaguely remembering seeing recipients for a radiator in the PO's repair records. my car has 260000 miles (420000 km), the rad was probably replaced around 200k mi (320k km)


edit: oops, radiator was replaced at 137k miles, 220k km, that was in 2009
 

·
W124 Moderator
Joined
·
12,601 Posts
Does anyone have a "thermal image" of the radiator of a 230E sedan -90? E.g. either a proper thermal image or just some temp readings from different spots on the radiator, and how cool should the water be exiting the radiator?
What problem are you trying to determine a solution for?

Sent from my XT1710-02 using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
That would be awesome... I think I only need a reading from the top driver side (where the coolant enters), one in the opposite upper corner, one in the middle and then one where the coolant exits in the lower corner. That would be absolutely great. And also what the temperature gauge shows in the dash... so I can compare.
Thanks alot!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
What problem are you trying to determine a solution for?

Sent from my XT1710-02 using Tapatalk
I have a hunch that my radiator is seriously under performing.... The engine gets hot but when I turn on the heater then it goes down (got the aux pump). I got a new thermostat, a new filler cap, water pump replaced 3000 km ago and I neither loose coolant nor get oil into the coolant.
I noticed that the coolant exiting the radiator is VERY cool even when the coolant temp is at 110...
 

·
W124 Moderator
Joined
·
12,601 Posts
That would be awesome... I think I only need a reading from the top driver side (where the coolant enters), one in the opposite upper corner, one in the middle and then one where the coolant exits in the lower corner. That would be absolutely great. And also what the temperature gauge shows in the dash... so I can compare.

Thanks alot!
Once again

What problem are you hoping to solve with all the readings?

Sent from my XT1710-02 using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
How many miles are on the radiator? Have you done a citric acid flush?

Sent from my XT1710-02 using Tapatalk
220000 km but it has been standing still for a year or two almost around 120000 km and nowadays it is only driver one or two months per year so shit have happened probably which wouldnt have occured if beeing driven regularly over its life.

Havent done the citric acid flush, want to get some data from the radiator first before I start flushing the system.

Next step will be disconnecting the rad and do a flow test and see what that say in conjunction with the thermal readings.
 

·
W124 Moderator
Joined
·
12,601 Posts
I'd pull the radiator and have it professionally flushed. Are you using MB coolant and distilled water?

Sent from my XT1710-02 using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
I'd pull the radiator and have it professionally flushed. Are you using MB coolant and distilled water?

Sent from my XT1710-02 using Tapatalk
I cant find a company that does flushings in the vicinity (150 km radius) but I will look further afield.
Using glycol and water, havent changed since the garage replaced the water pump so not sure about the water.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,731 Posts
ok, I'm looking in the Mercedes parts catalog...

for non-AC cars, it looks like radiator A2015004603 for stickshifts, and A2015002903 for automatics. As someone else suggested, these are indeed radiators originally meant for the W201 family with the M102 2.3L engine.

A1245008703 and A1245002403 is for air conditioned cars, and likely has to be paired with different hoses, different mounting hardware, different electric fans and shrouds, so not a trivial swap.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
ok, I'm looking in the Mercedes parts catalog...

for non-AC cars, it looks like radiator A2015004603 for stickshifts, and A2015002903 for automatics. As someone else suggested, these are indeed radiators originally meant for the W201 family with the M102 2.3L engine.

A1245008703 and A1245002403 is for air conditioned cars, and likely has to be paired with different hoses, different mounting hardware, different electric fans and shrouds, so not a trivial swap.
The A201 looks more like the one I have also, but I wonder why MB themselves suggests the 8703 for my car... Thats kind of strange.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,731 Posts
you really should be using a G05 (light gold) or G48 (blue) coolant not just 'glycol', as these have the right mix of anticorrosive agents, you dilute these 50-50 with water, preferably distilled especially if your tap water is 'hard' like ours is here.


anyways I tried to get radiator spot temps on my 320CE, but without any luck. the A/C condenser is on the front of the radiator, and the shroud-and-fan on the back made this pretty much impossible. the large hoses that come off the thermostat housing all read about 86C (and my temp gauge was somewhere about halfway between 80C and 90, where the unlabeled mark is 100C). I couldn't get close enough to any hose on the other side of the horizontal radiator to read the other temps, the plastic tank on that side seemed to be about 70C
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
you really should be using a G05 (light gold) or G48 (blue) coolant not just 'glycol', as these have the right mix of anticorrosive agents, you dilute these 50-50 with water, preferably distilled especially if your tap water is 'hard' like ours is here.


anyways I tried to get radiator spot temps on my 320CE, but without any luck. the A/C condenser is on the front of the radiator, and the shroud-and-fan on the back made this pretty much impossible. the large hoses that come off the thermostat housing all read about 86C (and my temp gauge was somewhere about halfway between 80C and 90, where the unlabeled mark is 100C). I couldn't get close enough to any hose on the other side of the horizontal radiator to read the other temps, the plastic tank on that side seemed to be about 70C
You got the plastic tanks of the radiator on the sides right? So 70 should more or less be the exit temp... wow... mine is more like a luke warm 30 or so...
Thanks alot for the help! Ill report my progress :)
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
50 Posts
Perceived Radiator temp vs engine temp Gauge reading ?

OP - It would seem our USA spec E-320 coupe is in a similar boat.
Here in Colorado's high country with an elevation at the coupe's garage 8,200ft,,, and with an elevation of 11,100ft on the CO Hwy I-70 topping Vail Pass. It's here where the coupe's temp gauge reading is a needle's width away from entering the 120C white/red area of the temp gauge. It's at the end of a 12 mile, 3,000ft elevation climb at 65-70mph (steady 3rd gear-3,800rpm) when the coupe reads just shy of overheating. Go figure! The very recent coolant system renovation is outlined below.

Is there a misguided temp sender and/or temp gauge? I dunno. Possibly an external factory oil cooler could assist? The parts while costly are available thru Stuttgart.


Stock - 1994 E320 coupe, 124.052, M104.992 3.2l w/722.3 4sp auto, factory A/C,
running/summer 15w-50 Mobil 1 and Mercedes-Benz glycol 50/50 distilled H2O

Mileage 135,000mi, A new MB OEM A 124.500.24.02 radiator installed June 1, 2019 @ 132,100mi. Also, 2 elec fans, relay, Fan clutch, H2O pump w/rollers & adjuster-etc., All coolant system hoses, Belts, 50/50 MB glycol w/distilled H2O ... All components MB original except one,,,, an authentic Beru/Hella radiator.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
OP - It would seem our USA spec E-320 coupe is in a similar boat.
Here in Colorado's high country with an elevation at the coupe's garage 8,200ft,,, and with an elevation of 11,100ft on the CO Hwy I-70 topping Vail Pass. It's here where the coupe's temp gauge reading is a needle's width away from entering the 120C white/red area of the temp gauge. It's at the end of a 12 mile, 3,000ft elevation climb at 65-70mph (steady 3rd gear-3,800rpm) when the coupe reads just shy of overheating. Go figure! The very recent coolant system renovation is outlined below.

Is there a misguided temp sender and/or temp gauge? I dunno. Possibly an external factory oil cooler could assist? The parts while costly are available thru Stuttgart.


Stock - 1994 E320 coupe, 124.052, M104.992 3.2l w/722.3 4sp auto, factory A/C.

Mileage 135,000mi, A new MB OEM A 124.500.24.02 radiator installed June 1, 2019 @ 132,100mi. Also, 2 elec fans, relay, Fan clutch, H2O pump w/rollers & adjuster-etc., All coolant system hoses, Belts, 50/50 MB glycol w/distilled H2O ... All components MB original except one,,,, an authentic Beru/Hella radiator.
So... in other words... who will "risk" their engine by letting the temperature on the gauge over 120 and see if it boils? You or me? I must say your theory is however very compelling since my car has not truly boiled over yet. Hmm...
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,731 Posts
does this temp gauge normally run in the 80-100 C range when you're not topping out over a massive high altitude grade like that ?

next time its heading for 120, put the hvac on EC, open all 4 windows, and turn the temp gauge up to max heat, the temp gauge should drop significantly, albeit you'll be getting baked in the car.

you really should be using a G05 or G48 coolant rather than generic 'glycol'.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
50 Posts
LCG -
On an 80F-90F day around town, the coupe's M104 runs between the 80-100C range as you've mentioned. Mostly around the 100C line with the A/C roaring on a 90F day. Sure, hit the 85F scale on the thumbwheel, (heater on high) and the temp needle drops fast. However, hit the mountain passes and were running way close to hot, hot for my taste. There's no cooling system headroom here at altitude.

P.S., Yes, yes. Running a 50/50 mix of M-B glycol and distilled H2O is the way to roll.

P.S.S., It's said,, neg -3% specific output (HP/TQ) for every 1,000Ft elevation above sea level. 8,200Ft elevation at our garage - neg 24% output yikes!

Cheers, M/S

does this temp gauge normally run in the 80-100 C range when you're not topping out over a massive high altitude grade like that ?

next time its heading for 120, put the hvac on EC, open all 4 windows, and turn the temp gauge up to max heat, the temp gauge should drop significantly, albeit you'll be getting baked in the car.

you really should be using a G05 or G48 coolant rather than generic 'glycol'.
 
1 - 20 of 32 Posts
Top