[Jlingsw]

So I purchased a new Nissens radiator for my e300. I have a local mechanic that's willing to install it for around 200$ but I don't know what else I need to order. Definitely need to replace the upper hose as that has broken off, but not sure what clamps I should order and if I should also do the lower hose. I've also noticed loud rattling while I leave the car idling, not sure if I need to replace the fan clutch or if it's a belt?

And sorry to ask all these questions but since I'm not doing this work myself would it be beneficial to also have him put a new water pump in to save on labor or is it better to have a don't fix it till it's broke attitude in this regard?

Thanks

 

[Kajtek1]

Lower hose is highly advised, but everything is subject to inspection.
At this age transmission hoses at the radiator might be bad too.
I installed Behr radiator on wife E300DT and after that I removed the wisko fan, driving for 4 seasons without it.
Been to 114F weather, stuck in traffic and no overheating.

 

[RichardM98]

I suggest you avoid screw drive hose clamps. They put to much pressure at one point (ie under the screw) and can damage the radiator inlet/outlet on modern radiators.

Clamps that require a special tool to install/remove such as Roto Clip Constant Tension are a better choice.

Rattling could be cats not cooling system. If you sure it's coming from the front of the engine check each accessory one-by-one to see if any are loose.

 

[Beverly Sharp]

What "special tool"? I use large pliers and they seem to work ok; where am I wrong with that?
Beverly

 

[RichardM98]

Most styles of constant tension hose clamps require a tool to open/close. You can substitute a common tool and make it work in some cases.

 

[atmsmshr]

So I purchased a new Nissens radiator for my e300. I have a local mechanic that's willing to install it for around 200$ but I don't know what else I need to order. Definitely need to replace the upper hose as that has broken off, but not sure what clamps I should order and if I should also do the lower hose. I've also noticed loud rattling while I leave the car idling, not sure if I need to replace the fan clutch or if it's a belt?

And sorry to ask all these questions but since I'm not doing this work myself would it be beneficial to also have him put a new water pump in to save on labor or is it better to have a don't fix it till it's broke attitude in this regard?

Thanks

+1 on the lower hose.

You should ask what spec coolant the mechanic will use. MB approved brands are found on Bevo.

Mercedes-Benz Specifications for Operating Fluids: Engine Oil, Gear Oil, ATF, Coolant, Brakefluid

Your mechanic will need a liter of ATF (I use Fuchs titan 3434, but check Bevo for your car) since a bit less than that will drain out of the radiator and trans lines. If you have a transmission without a dipstick will also need a transmission dipstick fitting a 722.6xx transmission to get level back to normal. (Not sure what box an e300 uses)

If the upper radiator neck broke and the engine overheated, you may also want to change the thermostat at the same time.

Other front engine maintenance items (if the fan has to come out) - depending on your mileage - may want to replace the belt tensioner if not previously done. (if more than 150,000 mi IMHO) also may want to replace the poly belt (if more than 80,000 mi IMHO).

 

[fosmith]

... I've also noticed loud rattling while I leave the car idling, not sure if I need to replace the fan clutch or if it's a belt?...

That sounds like the bearings in the idler pulley or the tensioner pulley. Both these are prone to failure, at least on the M112/113 motors. You should check both of these - and the other accessories as well - by removing the belt and spinning the pulleys and checking for noise, looseness or roughness.

Fred

 

[Check Codes]

Assuming that the rattle is coming from the front of the engine, it could also be the alternator. Diesels use a sort of clutch/ratchet system for the alternator. One thing is for sure: you'll never diagnose it just discussing it on the forum. Either have the shop get involved or CAREFULLY use a mechanic's stethoscope to find the culprit.

The water pump I'd leave alone...unless, of course, that's where the rattle is coming from.

Good luck.

 

[Kajtek1]

You guys make it sound like those cars are falling apart for no reason.
When I was replacing radiator on our 1998 model, I did not replace anything beside coolant.
The car was 6 years younger, but with about 180k on it.
I blame our radiator failure on PO hitting high curb